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Have started the long job of cleaning the 73 Mach 1
#41
(02-17-2019, 10:22 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: It is the Floyd Garrett's Muscle Car Museum in Sevierville that I was referring to. The car is not there it is in my garage now.
I have a couple other hoods I would have to dig out and check the date codes on the stampings. They are both factory applied black out also. I have a 72 with a crunched hood I can measure side to side and width of border and such on to compare also.
I pretty much have most of the front end components cleaned up. The sway bar, strut rods, spindles and disc brake mounts were pretty crusty so I blasted and cleaned them up.
I removed the trim from the vinyl top, and the rear honeycomb panel and the door sill moldings and gave them a polish. I just got no name oven cleaner and after about 6 applications I gave up and went and got Easy Off and it removed the anodize the first coating.
The door sill moldings are not anodized so they polish easily. If you send the moldings off to be polished they get $37.00 per foot but they will come back perfect. Talking with my friend that does high end restorations and he had sent the stainless trim off the 69 HO Firebird he is doing now and I think it was $2,500 to do all the trim. I looked at it and it is perfect for sure. The aluminum will never look like stainless no matter how you polish.
The procedure the professional uses is a follows.
Straightens any dents or bends, riles, stones and sands back flat just like doing body work, glass beads the entire surface. He says this gives you a uniform surface to then start to polish. Then he buffs with compound until like a mirror.
I stripped the anodize, sanded with I believe 1200 to remove the corrosion the use fine steel wool then went to buffer with couple different compounds then hand polished with cream.
So now I need to get the roof rail molding off and windshield and rear window and do them. Can't find my windshield trim remover have not used in years. I will go buy another one and come home that then find the old one, lol.
I went to get the new tires mounted Friday and friend at the tire store was on holiday so I go back on Monday to get them mounted.
Help did not show up yesterday to remove hood and pull engine I need to get that out so I can clean the engine compartment and the engine. So I pulled one of the tail lights so I can get that trim back shiny. At least the 73 does not have the black out.
Since I am cleaning inside the garage I got a kids swimming pool to catch some of the run off. It is mainly just dust no rust and very little oil or grease. When I was out getting cleaning supplies I noticed that Dawn makes a floor cleaning soap so I got some to try.
Went to a couple parts houses and nobody has the master cylinder repair kits only want to sell you a rebuilt cylinder. So I will look for that some online. Might have to buy a rebuilt one and pull the guts out to keep my original in the car. If bad pitted I would send off to get the brass sleeve put in then will never rust again. Might be ok have not removed yet.
Might pull the gas tank today to get a look inside. If not too bad will pour in denatured alcohol and marbles and let them beat the crud loose.
I left camera in garage so no new pics will update later today.
Cold rain here.

This thread is worthless without pics...ha ha. Sounds like great progress, can't wait to see.

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
  Reply
#42
Looking forward to seeing the mustang all cleaned up David. Make sure you take lots of pics before you ship it to NC.

John J
  Reply
#43
(02-17-2019, 03:37 PM)John J Wrote: Looking forward to seeing the mustang all cleaned up David. Make sure you take lots of pics before you ship it to NC.

John J

John,
I only live about 100 miles from the museum in Charlotte. I live in western N.C. in Hendersonville. I go to the swap meet at the track every April also. I will probably take the car down myself.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#44
Ok got some pictures of the newly mount Goodyear tires on the polished Forged Aluminum wheels with NOS center caps. I use SS screws to mount the caps with never seize on the threads. The original screws were self tapping so they broke lots of times when trying to remove them. Self tapping wedges there way into the hole like the door hinge bolts do. The holes are 8-32 size so I used a GH-3 8-32 tap to clean out the holes. The GH is the amount of oversize the tap is. GH-3 is .0015" oversize. When doing tool work if you do not use oversize taps the holes shrink in heat treat and you cannot get the screws in or very tight.
So got the trim for the honey comb panel polished, the trim for the 3/4 vinyl roof and one tail light and the gas cap done. Will spray some clear on them today if it is warm outside.
On the vinyl roof trim. Ford assembly line worker must have dropped one of the clips on the way to the car so one is missing. This is the first time the trim was taken off so has never been there. Does anyone have one clip they can spare? See the pic.
The Goodyear Polyglas RWL tires went on easy. Took to a friends tire shop and he took extra care lubing the beads and indesing all the tires the same. So Goodyear is up and tire valve next to the floor. These tires will never see a road but we did put one on the balance machine and it needed 8 OZ to balance. So we did not balance them. Will just be sitting there in the museuem on them.
The tail lights are always a bear to get apart with that darn sticky orange glue that Ford put on. I will go back with Daniel Carpenter seals they are much better than the Ford sponge ones. Can't see them so nobody knows what is in there. I did clean the housings and sprayed the inside with Satin White to improve the lights. Left the outside of the housings as they came with the over spray from the trunk paint on them.
I got the other tail light out and apart and cleaned. Started taking the roof rail trim off you can see in the pics how the polished vinyl trim next to the roof rail looks.
You cannot polish aluminum to be really shiny. There are soft and hard spots in aluminum and the soft will wear down first making it look like an orange peel. This also happens if you polish a plastic mold incorrectly. You pull the carbon particles out of the steel and it will not go to a mirror finish. The Forged Aluminum wheels do better because of the forging process.
When I did the gas cap I did go find an example of an Autolite and also my car had the Motorcraft replacement with the cable on it. I put that on to prevent theft of the cap. If you zoom in on the two gas caps you can see that the lift one is Motorcraft and the right is Autolite. Ford was forced to sell off Autolite government said it was a monopoly making your own parts, lol. Good old government. So a 71 & 72 would need the Autolite cap and 73 the Motorcraft. I doubt that MCA checks that.
So today to get the roof rail trim off and soaking in oven cleaner.
The trim for the rocker boxes does not have anodize on it so it does better polishing. I used pedestal buffer and couple different compounds. Red to rough it down and white to get a little better then the paste with pad in cordless drill then hand polish. To get into the groves in the rocker box trim I used pieces of a sham, which is like felt, and a flat blade screw drive the get into the low places. Those are the original parts not new ones. An easy one day thing anyone can do at home. I was always careful not to drag my shoes on the trim or paint.
I have lined up a two car enclosed trailer and my nephew has a dually diesel Ford pu and will haul the Mach 2 and the 73 Vert to the museum at same time. I will dolly the vert back after the show and the Mach 1 will stay, how long I do not know.
Should receive a bunch of stuff today from NPD and Daniel Carpenter to keep things moving April will be here too soon.
The honey comb panel is still in one piece most break in the middle. I washed it good and will blast with walnut shells to make it look new. Same with the grill. Both parts were molded with a frosty finish not shiny.
My help to remove the hood did not show on Saturday so I did not get the engine out as planned.
Will keep pushing to get this car taken apart, detailed and put back together.
The picture of the old Goodyear is one I took off the car. It was NOS and never was on the road just rotted sitting there.
When I was in my stash of NOS parts I did find the NOS ram air flappers. One of the members had a question about them once and I do not remember who. I think it was the Pastel Blue in Canada. Anyway there are some pictures of a NOS one. The box has a D3 part number so must have been some change in 73 do not know what it was. I should have bought more of them and put up. There is a used ram air on ebay now and start bid is $3,500, lol. Car did not cost that much.
BTW I used headlight lens polish on the gas cap center and the lens for tail light. The two different cream polishes I used are about the same. Could not tell any difference in look.
If you are doing buffing you never mix the compounds on one wheel. I keep each wheel in a zip lock bag with the compound. You will never gain if you mix them. I did sand the trim with 1,200 grit before any polish and then used fine steel wool to get and even surface. If you fix dents you have to file the surface back flat before polish.
Most people do not get any closer that maybe 5 feet so do not be too critical when you polish or you will never get done. Remember they get $37.00 a foot to polish the trim.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#45
David,

I have a extra clip from my 73. PM your address and I will send out to you.

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
  Reply
#46
Ok today was not a good day, rain, sleet and getting colder, so no painting.
Did get some of my parts today should get the others tomorrow.
I cleaned the seats and the fold down today. They look brand new. There is no signs of wear on any parts of them with just 12,000 miles should not be much. I did not allow anyone to smoke in the car either not even me when I smoked.
I just used a little Lysol in warm water. The warm water is more for me than cleaning.
I also cleaned the seat guides and put new grease in. So seats are ready to go back in once I get the carpet out to clean and look for that build sheet.
The Ozone generator is getting any smell out even though I am nose blind. Had two sinus surgeries that wiped out taste and smell. You do not want to eat my spicy cooking, lol.
Here are some pictures of the seats they are great I think for originals.
I had mentioned that my console has a Cougar wire harness. The difference was that the Cougar got a light in the astray. The dummy on the line reversed the two light bulbs so they could not plug the wire harness plastic tabs into the console. I reversed the bulbs and they plugged in. No cracks no skinned places and the chrome still shiny on the console. It is bubbled up in the back. When we use to go to drive in movie in winter would sit a can of sterno on console in front of the ash tray. It gets cold in the car with not many clothes on, lol. Did not have to run engine and burn that expensive gas you could not get back then either.
I was shocked that there were no mouse nests under the rear seat. Only thing I found was a 35 mm film case lid. No bags of pot or anything, lol.
So if raining tomorrow get the carpet out and shampoo it and see if there is a build sheet.. 
You can see a line where the sun did fade the carpet where the fold up shades part of it when the seat is up.
I would work like 16 hours a day but damn neck will not let me. My longest time up working on a car was from a Wednesday to a Saturday would go to work and come home and work on the car no sleep the entire time. I did go to sleep on my date on Saturday at the drive in, lol. I put the whole drive line together, engine, transmission and rear and put into the car. Ran great.
Now I spend more time looking for stuff than working. Mind is gone.

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#47
So this morning I go out the door and boom there sits a box from NPD. I thought it was going to be a productive day. I opened it up and there was only one lower control arm and one disc caliper seal kit. Humm, went back to order and somehow it was changed to just one. So I get back online to order another and some other odds and ends. Was going to get new clamps for the heater hoses and went to garage to get a pic of what was original. While there I compared the new lower control arm that is said to be concourse made by Drake to the original. The Chinese put the bushing in for the sway bar the wrong way. Note in the pictures how most of the reinforcement that holds the rubber is on the bottom. The new one has the reinforcement on the top and shape is opposite.
I got on NPD facebook and will see what they say. I will also go look at pictures on other sites to see if the same. Other than that they look the same or close.
Scott Drake does not have a good reputation for sure.
The battery cable set was from NPD but has Marti's label on it will compare it also.
So my productive day of getting the front end back together went away and will loose two or three more days or more.
Angry Shootself
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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#48
It should look like this
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Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

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  Reply
#49
Yep it should. The arms that are not concourse are more correct than the expensive ones. They did not dip the end with ball joint in paint on the originals and I think that is what they are calling concourse.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
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