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Have Not Started in 2 years
I am an idiot! Time got away from me and I have not started the 72 (302 engine) in 2 Years. The engine was running fine. No problems at all, I would like suggestions on what to do before I start it again. I have pulled the plugs and have put Marvel Oil down the holes to start. 
[Image: Mustang.jpg]

John Marston

Brian Kulis
Depends on how far you want to go. You could reprime the oiling system but that means removing the distributor and reinstalling. In doing so you will mess up the timing of an engine that was running fine before.

With the plugs removed I would at least turn it over by hand, make sure everything is moving.

Does it have a mechanical fuel pump? You will want to prime the carb if it does.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
Change the oil, after that long it is likely to have water from condensation in it.

I would leave the spark plugs out and crank it until it has developed oil pressure and gets circulated in the engine.

Make sure the radiator had the proper level of coolant.

Check the hoses and belts to make sure they haven't gotten hard and cracked.

Was the carburetor drained, or did the fuel dry in it? If it dried in it there will likely be varnish in the carburetor.

Did the gas in the gas tank have stabilizer in it and if so was it circulated through the fuel line?

Check under the car for leaks.

Don't drive it until you check transmission, differential, master cylinder,brake lines, power steering, and tires for age/dry rot and air pressure. I would also lubricate it and check the front wheel bearings. It would also be a good idea to flush the brake lines. Check the brake operation and apply a fair amount of force to the brake pedal (David uses both feet and really stands on the pedal) to make sure lines and pistons don't fail. Take it easy and check all systems when you start driving it, do a FantomWorks style brake test in a safe area.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
Started mine after 12 years about a month ago. Zero engine issues with no preparation. That said, I had the gas tank out. So no bad gas issue.

Had huge issues with fuel lines being clogged up.

I would see if the fuel is pumping to the carb, if so give it a go. When it starts, Gove it time... idle for a bit, shut it down, re check fluids, did it again. These things are made Ford tough. A couple years are relatively easy.

Hello, it is a good idea to prime the pump especially to get oil in the bearings, it's also good to get it to fire without a lot of cranking so fill the fuel bowls ,even the fuel line if you want to go that far. If you have points clean them. I have a 454 that someone let sit 20yrs I've been driving it for 3yrs. no issues. I did change the pan gasket and seals before putting it in, after all 20 is a long time. You should be fine.
OMG, just turn the darn key.

[+] 4 users Like Hemikiller's post
(07-06-2018, 07:46 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: OMG, just turn the darn key.

+ 1
I would not do much. Make sure the battery has a full charge and refill the carb through the vents with a small funnel. If the tank isn't full bring home a 5 gallon can of premium and add it to the gas. Condensation accumulating in the oil in a car stored indoors is not going to be an issue. I might take a breaker bar to one that sat for 4-5 years, but two years is not a big deal.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
I think bad gas is the biggest issue you're up against.  My Jeep regularly goes for almost a year or more without being started and ran.  When the gas is good, it fires right up, runs a little ragged for a few minutes, then everything smooths out and we're all good.  If the gas has soured, the plugs tend to foul fairly quickly.  The crap gas they make these days is not nearly is robust as the fuels from when our cars were new.  The additives and Ethanol crap they add breaks down much quicker and turns into something that's still flammable, but good enough to run the cars very well.

I would do whatever's necessary to ensure the carb's primed with some good gas, and give the key a turn.  Take the butt of a heavy screwdriver and tap the top of the fuel bowl(s) a few times as well... just in case the floats are stuck.  Be prepared to clean/replace distributor cap & rotor, points (if you still have 'em), and/or plugs as well.  I stored my '82 Mustang for 15 months back in the early '90s and came home to a car that ran like crap... which a new cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and some premium eventually cured.

I wouldn't worry too much about condensation inside the oiling system unless you're in a high humidity area (as in, you regularly notice condensation build-up on the car after temp changes (i.e. mornings, etc.) - if it's parked inside a garage (as it appears to be) the chances of condensation building up to significant levels is slim.  I'd consider changing the oil soon after getting it running again, just to get new stuff in there.

Totally agree on Don's advice about checking all of the car's sub-systems for functionality before taking it out for a cruise, though.  Rubber & plastics dry out over time and could easily prevent something like a power brake booster from functioning properly (not something you want to find out as someone cuts you off in traffic). Wink

Good luck!


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
That length of time is nothing. Just take coil wire off and crank over long enough to get oil in all the galleys. I have several cars that sat for way longer. I have a 1950 Ford that sat from 1954 until 1996. I had to change the voltage regulator cleaned the gas tank and noting else. Carb, fuel pump, points, condenser and hoses and wires were from 1950. I took brakes apart but changed nothing. I drove 100 miles on July 4 with original belts and hoses on the car. Yes they can blow at any time but they were there.
Today I drove my 1973 vert that sat for 26 years. I took brakes apart and checked and put back.
I have a 1973 Mach 1 not ran since 1982. I pulled the oil out sent to have analyzed and ZERO water in the oil. It is an old wife's tale that water gets into the oil. I shared the results on the forum.
People come up with all these horror stories but no proof. I have the cars I drive the cars and yes they sat all those years.
I will probably start the 73 mach 1 this winter after sitting since 1982. Hope to put lots of fables to bed with it.
I sold a 1966 Ranchero last year that had sat outside from 1982 until 2016 and never started. Before he bought it he reached in and pulled the fan and the engine turned over by hand.
I live in North Carolina not a dry place for sure with over 30 inches of rain this last May. Below zero in winter so not a climate control for sure.
These are facts not fiction.
If your watch sits on the shelf for years will it not run? People have crazy ideas of what reality happens to be.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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