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Has anyone replaced fuel lines w/o a lift
#1
Is there any easy way?

Thanks

Thomas
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#2
I have four jack stands! Big sheets of cardboard are easier to lay on than a creeper. Lots of light. It just stinks!
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#3
There is not an easy way.

You will probably need to remove your driveshaft.  One bit of advice I have is to remove the old line with the least amount of tweaking possible.  Place your new "prebent" line next to it and adjust it so that it is as close to the original as possible.  Take picture beforehand so you have a reference.


You will need to remove your drivers side wheels.
Buy a new "squeeze" style clamp for the drivers footwell.  They are kind of a one time use item.

Added....
The driveshaft removal is just if you are going to replace the vapor return line that goes down the center tunnel.
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#4
it's no biggy, but the order matters or you will get mad Smile
secure car with both front and back wheels out, loose the old screws, let back go first, let gravity work for you as you work toward front of the car
you have like 4 or 5 screws to remove, and 2 bolts, one 13 mm bolt just after the wheel and one behind front wheel near triangle. One you have them all loose just pull hard on nipple so it goes thru the grommet. Same for the small one going around coil.
To install new ones, it's the reverse except i'd do the following: go to the wheel back, put a screw and suspend the line a wire, let like 10cm play, so it hangs.
then go front and push nipple in, place the screw next to the triangle, but do not tightened it, then the first where it goes under car. Go then to wire and reduce distance to small one. you should then be able place back all screws. I'd use new ones for the metal screws, bolts are quality ones and can be brushed. Mine were in very good shape.

Another nice day under the car in perspective Smile

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#5
Yeah, fuel line replacement was not really too bad........... other than the pre-bent SS lines I bought from Classic Tube were anything but right, especially at the tank end. This was discussed in my post Fuel system replacement - 71 Mach 1 in April of this year.
You need 4, 6 ton axle stands ( for the height) and get the car as high as is SAFELY possible. Cardboard or a blanket are way better than a creeper at our age. You do NOT need to remove the driveshaft as the 3/8" lines go down the outside on the left side of the car. There are only a few clamps holding the line. It is a two part system with a rubber tube connection under the master cylinder. On mine, the front section went in quite easily. Replace ALL the rubber grommets and use 3/8" high pressure fuel injector hose as it is ethanol resistant (on the inside!!) I did not bother replacing the return vent tube, unless it's rotten. You may need to remove the drive shaft for this one though.
In my case I had to do considerable reshaping to get the tank end correct. However to be fair, the miss-shaped section could have been caused from bad handling in shipping or warehouse storage as it was not protected in any way, just bent in two and taped.
The pictures shows how I fitted the line and included a short length of rubber tube to protect and resist vibration. I did later add a home made clip on the underside of the frame rail to better hold the fuel line. (The new line was not shaped correctly at this point and the original clamp would no longer work)
Good luck, just take your time.
Geoff.
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#6
The one that feeds the right front brake is a tough one to install with the engine on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Edit: please disregard my reply. I misread brake instead of fuel

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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