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grease and oil removal ?
#1
so are there any new good grease and oil removing products out there  my rear end has a lot of old goo  in the nooks and crannies to get out
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#2
As far as water base stuff goes POR 14 40104 cleaner degreaser is great stuff. Solvents like gunk, kerosene etc. work but leave a film if you are painting. Heavy truck parts places usually have good stuff too.
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#3
CRC Brakleen the green can. Not the red can.... it sucks. I buy the green cans by the case.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#4
Scrub brush and some of the cleaners like Purple Power or Simple Green. They do a great job of loosening up the caked on gunk. If the rear is out of the car a pressure washer does wonders as well.

Prior to painting I'll use brake cleaner (red can CRC - sorry Turtle) to degrease and blow it dry with compressed air. I only use brake clean for a final clean, so can't comment on how well it works on heavy grease.


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#5
Yep  for heavy junk a pressure washer or even a putty knife to cut the thick stuff.  I am a fan of purple power too.  Use it over and over on an engine bay(every time you wash the car) and it can make it look super.  

Maybe drive it to a car wash, throw on some coveralls, and lay down and hit it with the high pressure wand to blow the chunks out.  Then use the Purple Power over the season and see how she looks.

kcmash
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#6
(03-10-2019, 10:16 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: Scrub brush and some of the cleaners like Purple Power or Simple Green. They do a great job of loosening up the caked on gunk. If the rear is out of the car a pressure washer does wonders as well.

Prior to painting I'll use brake cleaner (red can CRC - sorry Turtle) to degrease and blow it dry with compressed air. I only use brake clean for a final clean, so can't comment on how well it works on heavy grease.

No problem man!  Back in the day the red can contained Chlorine in its formula, not sure if it still does. But the green can has always been chlorine-free.  I do a ton of welding and I prep a lot of oily metal with brakleen. So that's why I use the green non-chlorinated stuff. When you weld it does not put off toxic gases.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#7
Any water based degreaser does a better job cutting thru the grease with hot water. The hotter the better.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#8
I've used a product called S 100 with good results. It can be diluted with water to meet you needs. Chuck
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#9
Simple green, purple power, all those water based high PH chemicals do pretty well when warm.

You might check commercial kitchen supply places. Out west there is some stuff made by Mount Hood Chemical that is a griddle cleaner called “grease kicker”. It is almost frightening to use compared to purple power.
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#10
+1 on Green Brake Clean. Stay away from the Walmart brand, its junk......
By the way my mach's rear end was all gummed up and once I cleaned it, the weld around the pumpkin housing was bad, looked to be missed or just caught the edge at the factory and cracked. I repaired, welded and tested prior to sandblasting and paint as few weeks ago......
Thanks, Jay
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