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Got it started...but one solved issue leads to another
#1
I posted a week ago talking about how i could not get my motor started. Alot of you guys posted on here that i was probably 180 out / timing issues. You were right i was 180 out.

NEW issue: Got its started today, walking around counting all of the leaks and found a nice puddle on the passenger floor. Obviously the heater core. I had no heater core issues when i first got this car. When i bought it it had a runnig 390 in it and it ran with no leaking heater core. I took the new heater hoses back off, re clampped them, same thing. I do see dropplets of water coming off of the firewall where the hoses go in and it is putting water into the heater box itself and runnig onto the garage floor and the passenger floor of the car. Any thoughts?

"Do it once, do it right!"
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#2
I would guess that you opened up a seam when you took off the old hoses, was probably close to failing. If you're sure that the leak isn't in the hose connection, or even running down the hose and into the firewall, I agree you have a heater core leaking. Because of the thin material and flexing during heat cycles Bar's Leak probably won't help you.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
I'm pretty sure it's not running down into the firewall from the hoses. when I checked out the heater box I noticed that the condensation drain tube that I had broken of a long time ago had water coming through it as if the heater core is leaking inside the box itself. are there any good walk throughs posted on how to replace a heater core

"Do it once, do it right!"
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#4
Is it factory A/C ?
either way, the heater box has to come out. Not a bad job, just takes some time.
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#5
One thing that is helpful in replacing a heater core is to remove the glove box and door to help access the heater box.
I also remove the passenger seat just to have more room for me to fit in there but that is not necessary for most people.

Blue Mustang,White Five hunderd, Red Escape
Red,White and Blue
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#6
Take the kick panel out as well. I scratched mine trying maneuver the heater box out.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#7
Now is a good time to get a new gasket set.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#8
Mike, if you just want to get the car running you can bypass the heater by just looping a section of hose from the 2 fittings on the engine. You won't have heat but you won't have leaks either. It'll work for the short term, I ran my car 1 summer like that.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#9
Was it raining outside when you started it? Tongue
Oh wait, I'm thinking about my cars.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#10
Yes it does have factory a/c vut it is not being used.

"Do it once, do it right!"
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