• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Got another problem 351c
#21
I just removed a petronix kit from the car i'm working on. I installed it last year works fine.  If you interested let me know. The distributor that its in wasn't advancing the timing. The vacuum diaphragm was bad so we upgraded to a duraspark ignition.

[Image: 841-E89-BB-3805-426-B-80-B1-85-CC944-CE19-F.jpg]

[Image: E55-ADAD1-0434-4-BD2-B518-C31-CAA4-E8486.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#22
Looks like you stayed with stock coil ,,,,,I got some more problems just found,,, look like a bolt is broke off in the exhaust manifold so I think ill go for a new cam ,lifters, T chain,, rebuild heads new dis,coil,ect... and carb

THE WIND SHEILD COWBOY
  Reply
#23
You had better make sure your cylinders, pistons, rings, and bearings are good before you put it back together after bumping up the performance, things that seem fine now have a habit of rapidly deteriorating when more power is applied to them. It's called project creep, one thing either leads to, or requires, something else.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#24
(02-14-2019, 04:07 PM)batwrangler Wrote: Stanglover which Pertronixll should I get their a lot of different types one say's for ( Auto lite) it a stock distributor I got now

 Sorry for the delay getting back on this.
The Pertronix Ignitor II part # is 91281 for Ford V8 cyl. I don't have a part number, but the coil is a Flame-Thrower II at 45,000 volts. The P II is red whereas the original P I is black. Both will work fine. However, the P II should be run on a full 12V. I believe the  P I can run on resisted voltage, but check on that. Pertronix make a relay so you do not have to cut the pink resistor wire, merely bypass it. Makes for an easy install. Wish I'd known about that when I did mine! Do NOT buy the Pertronix Ignitor III, Good electronics, bad construction.
Is your points plate grounded!!! Small bare copper wire which you can just see in the pic. Very Important!
This is for the STOCK Autolite/motorcraft distributor.
You may, once you have found the real issue for why it won't run right, need to recurve that distributor for optimum timing. We can deal with that later.
Here's a pic of the P II. Sorry it's not a clear shot, but you can see what it looks like.


[Image: DSC00256.jpg]

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#25
(02-15-2019, 10:20 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-14-2019, 04:07 PM)batwrangler Wrote: Stanglover which Pertronixll should I get their a lot of different types one say's for ( Auto lite) it a stock distributor I got now

 Sorry for the delay getting back on this.
The Pertronix Ignitor II part # is 91281 for Ford V8 cyl. I don't have a part number, but the coil is a Flame-Thrower II at 45,000 volts. The P II is red whereas the original P I is black. Both will work fine. However, the P II should be run on a full 12V. I believe the  P I can run on resisted voltage, but check on that. Pertronix make a relay so you do not have to cut the pink resistor wire, merely bypass it. Makes for an easy install. Wish I'd known about that when I did mine! Do NOT buy the Pertronix Ignitor III, Good electronics, bad construction.
Is your points plate grounded!!! Small bare copper wire which you can just see in the pic. Very Important!
This is for the STOCK Autolite/motorcraft distributor.
You may, once you have found the real issue for why it won't run right, need to recurve that distributor for optimum timing. We can deal with that later.
Here's a pic of the P II. Sorry it's not a clear shot, but you can see what it looks like.


[Image: DSC00256.jpg]

///////////Does it have to be adjusted??   ////////

THE WIND SHEILD COWBOY
  Reply
#26
(02-15-2019, 09:55 AM)Don C Wrote: You had better make sure your cylinders, pistons, rings, and bearings are good before you put it back together after bumping up the performance, things that seem fine now have a habit of rapidly deteriorating when more power is applied to them. It's called project creep, one thing either leads to, or requires, something else.

Don you wright about this so im going to change my thinking and probably do the whole engine ////////////////wow im going to build a engine all I want is a cam little bigger then stock and every thing else to match

THE WIND SHEILD COWBOY
  Reply
#27
Well I tore down the front and crank shaft mark to TDC distributor pointing at #1 carb shoots gas good (Yellow) color spark when grounding the #1 spark plug still can't get it started now I tried all day to get it running ,,I still don't want to give up on that this motor runs good????
[Image: 20190215-130909.jpg]

THE WIND SHEILD COWBOY
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Restarting problem Danno 7 236 09-08-2019, 09:16 AM
Last Post: Don C
  3 speed manual trans problem 48Ford 1 167 08-22-2019, 10:43 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
  351c fan don blanchard 9 864 08-20-2019, 09:52 AM
Last Post: don blanchard
  351C 4V "quirks" Mystic Fish 11 1,635 08-18-2019, 06:22 PM
Last Post: Spike Morelli
  Correct 351C Power Steering Hoses? street rod mach 1 12 923 08-18-2019, 03:25 PM
Last Post: Don C
  351C 4V Exhaust system kcmash 14 2,982 08-09-2019, 04:57 PM
Last Post: goodnigh
  Power steering mounting 351c DeereFanatic 4 314 07-15-2019, 09:29 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
  73 Mach 1 351C w/AC vacuum line DeereFanatic 8 520 06-22-2019, 03:45 PM
Last Post: DeereFanatic



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)