71-73 Swag

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Give me the DON'Ts
#1
Here's the story.

In conjunction with some companies I work with, I had an all aluminum 427 SBF built for a customer. I sub contracted and held the paper for all the work. This clown paid in full, then canceled the charge off his credit card the day the engine was to ship. $20,000 engine.

That being said, a guy found me and was asking about the engine. It looks like the deal is going to come down to he's going to give me a 73 convertible and cash for the engine. Enough cash to get the car to almost done.

I have a blank canvas I can do anything I want with the car. It has already been violated as it has a 351C in place of the stock 6 cyl it came with. It has a 3 speed manual that I'm pulling out and putting in an AOD.

The interior is done with new stuff except for the door panels. It's black. Needs door panels. I was thinking of doing black and white door panels, and re-doing the seat covers to black and white. Or not.

I have a Corvette with a black interior, I was going to do the Mustang in the same color of the Corvette. It's called quasar blue metallic. My intent was to have the stripes painted, not decaled, in a pearl white, to play with the light the same way the blue will, especially durning twilight and under lights.

I'm thinking of dropping it an inch or two.

There is no console, can't find one I like, think I'm going to fabricate it and do a custom.

So far, what am I saying that is downright wrong? And what should I not do at all? What are the things to stay away from?

What would the Mustang community find inexcusable or repulsive?

I don't want to be a laughing stock.
  Reply
#2
Hmmm were pretty accepting of other peoples tastesSmile

Buuuut heres some stuff to avoid,
No giant rims
Use Ford parts (dont put a chev drivetrain in)
pretty much make your mods reasonable for purpose.

I'm sure theres more things that i'm missing, thats just what i can think of off the top of my head.
  Reply
#3
well it would come down to resale, if your selling it for profit then the customer base is going to want something not personalized.
if your keeping it do what ever you want to it.

people will always say they don't like something that is customized because it isn't their taste.

Look my car is a mess 10-20 footer at best, i drive it always get stopped somebody asked me about it, tells me cool car, honks at me, waves at me...
one time i went to a car show for mustangs and my club had a group spot so i parked it there, what i didn't know was the cars were being judged.

so basically they gave my car an 'F' from a concourse perspective.
i stopped spending 10$ going to stupid car shows.

I should point out; out of all the cars there that got higher grades then my car got, and had A/C, my car was the only one in that the A/C actually worked.


Smile
  Reply
#4
kidwithfastback=fast;167792 Wrote:Hmmm were pretty accepting of other peoples tastesSmile

Buuuut heres some stuff to avoid,
No giant rims
Use Ford parts (dont put a chev drivetrain in)
pretty much make your mods reasonable for purpose.

I'm sure theres more things that i'm missing, thats just what i can think of off the top of my head.

I'm going to SLIGHTLY bigger rims. Probably 17s. These rims are what I am considering:
[Image: KM701MB.jpg]

Because they remind me of these:
[Image: 13675.jpg]

From what I was told, the car has a new 351C Crate engine. The drivetrain would be all ford.
  Reply
#5
jsup;167795 Wrote:From what I was told, the car has a new 351C Crate engine. The drivetrain would be all ford.

Careful. All of Ford's recent crate motors are Windsors or 385-based. If it is a genuine crate 351C, it's an oldie.

Post some photos of the '73 if you can. Examine the door gaps extensively for sag.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
  Reply
#6
72HCODE;167793 Wrote:well it would come down to resale, if your selling it for profit then the customer base is going to want something not personalized.
if your keeping it do what ever you want to it.

people will always say they don't like something that is customized because it isn't their taste.

Look my car is a mess 10-20 footer at best, i drive it always get stopped somebody asked me about it, tells me cool car, honks at me, waves at me...
one time i went to a car show for mustangs and my club had a group spot so i parked it there, what i didn't know was the cars were being judged.

so basically they gave my car an 'F' from a concourse perspective.
i stopped spending 10$ going to stupid car shows.

I should point out; out of all the cars there that got higher grades then my car got, and had A/C, my car was the only one in that the A/C actually worked.


Smile

I'm in NJ and my friend's restoration shop is in Austin, TX. This car happens to be less than 1000 feet from his shop, he's going over to check it out tomorrow. My friend only does concourse level paint jobs. Problem is they start at $10,000. He's going to work me out a deal.

This car does not have AC as far as I know, I was going to do a kit and add it. Not a big deal. I'd like to do power windows and steering too, have to wait till I get it.

A little insight of how I did my Corvette. To look at it, it's bone stock. But I have a 427 Small Block Chevy, new trans, new rear, new suspension, all the running gear is new, and it's fast.

The Mustang I want to keep the original look and feel, just make have a slightly modern twist on a classic. Not too much of it though.

cudak888;167797 Wrote:
jsup;167795 Wrote:From what I was told, the car has a new 351C Crate engine. The drivetrain would be all ford.

Careful. All of Ford's recent crate motors are Windsors or 385-based. If it is a genuine crate 351C, it's an oldie.

Post some photos of the '73 if you can. Examine the door gaps extensively for sag.

-Kurt

My friend who is doing the inspection is a top of the line car restoration shop. I trust him, and I'll let him know that.

I'm going on what I have been told on the engine. Either way Windsor or Cleveland I'm not going to worry, I'm not going to change it. I don't know if it is a FORD crate engine or someone elses. I typically don't do crate engines. I have a working and personal relationship with builders like Pat Musi and Coast High Performance. I have a friend locally that was a mechanic for FORD Racing, I'm not a real fan of crate engines, but this won't be a race car.

Tomorrow I should have photos. I hope it works out, and isn't a piece of junk. I'm kinda looking forward to this.
  Reply
#7
If I was going to mod a convertible, I'd look at the factory brochures and then probably search the net checking pictures of cars restored, also looking at cars in magazines. I would take cues from different ones I liked, and try to build my car accordingly. It would look For performance upgrades, I'd (gulp) highly consider a late model drivetrain swap. 5.0 EFI roller motor or maybe a 03-04 Cobra modular motor. For transmission, I might go with a high tech 5-6 speed auto.
I'd probably copy Scott's (QCODE351MACH) or Roy's (TNFASTBK) suspension mods/upgrades.

For a more reasonable budget build I'd do a 408 stroker with a C-6. Then I'd add a Gearvendor's Overdrive later. Ok so much for a budget! Smile

Ray



1971 Boss 351
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible
  Reply
#8
Sounds to me like you have your head in a good place for this car. You can make a 73 convertible drive nice and be comfortable. The 351C is a nice performing engine. With an AOD (or other modern 4 speed auto, take a look at your options) the right rear end gear and a little work you will have a car that can run upper 13's lower 14's. These cars respond really well to subframe connectors (unlike the vettes they are unibody). Your going to have a solid axle rear, it may be 8" or 9". Six cyl typically came with 8". Swapping in a 9" is a good idea if you are going to up the power. They are solid axle, leaf spring. If you want to go coils or independent it is custom work. There is not a lot of aftermarket support for our cars in this area. But some nice leafs, traction bars and an aftermarket rear sway bar will get you most of the way.

There are some options for the front, even coil overs. You won't find a bolt in rack and pinion but there are kits for earlier years that can be modified.

My 73 came with A/C but I pulled it out. Between it just not sealing well (top/windows) and the fact I only drive it when the weather is nice all it really did was add weight and get in the way when I was trying to work on the motor.

THat sucks that the guy backed out on the motor. Jerk. I cannot believe someone would back out on such a commitment. Everall you are probably better off, goodness knows what kind of a jerk he would have been once he had it installed. Better you never hear from him again.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#9
Boss1Ray;167801 Wrote:If I was going to mod a convertible, I'd look at the factory brochures and then probably search the net checking pictures of cars restored, also looking at cars in magazines. I would take cues from different ones I liked, and try to build my car accordingly. It would look For performance upgrades, I'd (gulp) highly consider a late model drivetrain swap. 5.0 EFI roller motor or maybe a 03-04 Cobra modular motor. For transmission, I might go with a high tech 5-6 speed auto.
I'd probably copy Scott's (QCODE351MACH) or Roy's (TNFASTBK) suspension mods/upgrades.

For a more reasonable budget build I'd do a 408 stroker with a C-6. Then I'd add a Gearvendor's Overdrive later. Ok so much for a budget! Smile

Ray

The engine is new so I'm not going to screw with it, whatever it is, it is. When it blows up, I'll deal with it.

But I am looking for a 3.73 explorer rear with disk brakes, and if it has drums, swap the the front brakes over to disk, with new control arms, bushings.

I like the IRS set up, but that may not be in the budget for now. The suspension is LAST as I understand these cars ride pretty good.

I'm also going to drop in an electric fan, get rid of that stock one. Electric fans are so much better, especially in traffic. The taurus ones work pretty good.

So yeah, I'm going to moderize where it makes sense, without violating the true character of the car, that's my goal. I do fuel systems so at one point in the future I''ll move to multipoint injection. That's long term.

I'm going to do the coil springs and leaf springs, drop an inch, max 2, just to get it looking more aggressive.

I'm going for a cross between a Resto-rod and classic, with a bent toward more classic than resto.

will e;167803 Wrote:Sounds to me like you have your head in a good place for this car. You can make a 73 convertible drive nice and be comfortable. The 351C is a nice performing engine. With an AOD (or other modern 4 speed auto, take a look at your options) the right rear end gear and a little work you will have a car that can run upper 13's lower 14's. These cars respond really well to subframe connectors (unlike the vettes they are unibody). Your going to have a solid axle rear, it may be 8" or 9". Six cyl typically came with 8". Swapping in a 9" is a good idea if you are going to up the power. They are solid axle, leaf spring. If you want to go coils or independent it is custom work. There is not a lot of aftermarket support for our cars in this area. But some nice leafs, traction bars and an aftermarket rear sway bar will get you most of the way.

There are some options for the front, even coil overs. You won't find a bolt in rack and pinion but there are kits for earlier years that can be modified.

My 73 came with A/C but I pulled it out. Between it just not sealing well (top/windows) and the fact I only drive it when the weather is nice all it really did was add weight and get in the way when I was trying to work on the motor.

THat sucks that the guy backed out on the motor. Jerk. I cannot believe someone would back out on such a commitment. Everall you are probably better off, goodness knows what kind of a jerk he would have been once he had it installed. Better you never hear from him again.

I'm thinking 3.73 8.8 explorer rear. ALMOST as strong as a 9 inch and they are a dime a dozen. The Explorer rear has more splines than say the ranger or other cars, 31 I think, so it's a bit stronger.

I don't know if the car is set up for power steering or AC. Are these common options for six cyl cars? I would think not, but I don't know. I would expect the six cyl cars to be stripped.

The reason for AC is that it's very humid where I'm at in the summer. And defrosters work better with an AC compressor on them. I found some bolt up systems for about $1000 that will look and work stock.
  Reply
#10
jsup;167795 Wrote:
kidwithfastback=fast;167792 Wrote:Hmmm were pretty accepting of other peoples tastesSmile

Buuuut heres some stuff to avoid,
No giant rims
Use Ford parts (dont put a chev drivetrain in)
pretty much make your mods reasonable for purpose.

I'm sure theres more things that i'm missing, thats just what i can think of off the top of my head.

I'm going to SLIGHTLY bigger rims. Probably 17s. These rims are what I am considering:
[Image: KM701MB.jpg]

Because they remind me of these:
[Image: 13675.jpg]

From what I was told, the car has a new 351C Crate engine. The drivetrain would be all ford.

I'm going with these on my 71 vert.
If you squint hard enough they almost look like 17 inch versions of Magnum 500's.
I lowered mine 1 inch both front and rear.
   
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