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Getting the engine out of the car...
#21
(08-09-2018, 03:04 PM)Stanglover Wrote: Putting it back in in one piece is also the way to go, but I've not done it with headers. Others might know if that is doable. as I said, I didn't have a load leveler (next time!!) but I used a very low 1.5 ton floor jack under the tailstock and had someone lift that while I lowered the engine, sort of a dance really. Took only about an hour total, in and bolted up plus other stuff done.
Geoff
 Great job...May be one day for me Undecided
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#22
(08-09-2018, 02:12 PM)Fabrice Wrote: While searching, found a nice place here where I will be able buy what I need (and much more)
For the dutchies/benelux, bookmark that one!
https://www.vocor.nl

Nice website you find. Unfortunately not translated in English or french.

Very good products as RUSTYCO or OWATROL RUSTOL CIP.

Primer Epoxy is not expensive too...
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#23
Sometime ago I did the math on using the intake manifold adapter on both iron and aluminum manifolds, and there is plenty of strength to lift an engine, providing the bolts or studs have enough thread engagement.

The problem with using one is it makes it very difficult to tilt the engine when being installed by one person.

A load leveler attached to 4 corners of the engine makes it very easy to pull or replace the engine with or without transmission. It took me less than an hour to remove my 351C and C6 transmission, working by myself, but this wasn't my first time. I've used overhead 4-leg hoists, hoist attached to the building, tripods, and the Harbor Freight engine crane I've had for 20 years. The engine crane is my preference. I was watching one of the car shows the other day and they had an overhead hoist with electric winch with a cable. Every time they raised or lowered the engine it would bounce up or down 2 or3 inches, the winch was one speed, no easing the engine into position.

My transmission has a drain plug so that helped a lot, no worries about transmission fluid running all over the floor, and no having to drop the pan to drain it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#24
Just because I'm curious, any idea of the weight of a 351C?
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#25
(08-09-2018, 05:12 PM)Don C Wrote: A load leveler attached to 4 corners of the engine makes it very easy to pull or replace the engine

Can you tell me what  you call the 4 corners of the engine? Where are the 4 attach points?

My load leveler is equiped with 4 lift chains so i'm interested to know?

Thanks!
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#26
(08-10-2018, 06:37 AM)Régis Wrote:
(08-09-2018, 05:12 PM)Don C Wrote: A load leveler attached to 4 corners of the engine makes it very easy to pull or replace the engine

Can you tell me what  you call the 4 corners of the engine? Where are the 4 attach points?

My load leveler is equiped with 4 lift chains so i'm interested to know?

Thanks!

Use the accessory bolt holes in the heads.


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#27
When using the leveler and 4 chains usually you put the 4 outer intake bolts through the lift brackets. Be sure and get longer bolts to allow at least 1 1/2 times the bolt diameter engagement for steel 2 times dia. for cast iron, so you do not pull a thread out.
D


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#28
+1 on using the accessory bolt holes in the ends of the heads. They are larger bolts than the exhaust manifold bolts, yes, bigger is better.

For the engine weight, post 3 of this thread:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/showthread....9#pid52549



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#29
When talking about the outer intake bolt, are you talking about that:


[Image: Inked_IMG_20180810_172007_LI.jpg]

And the accessory bolt holes is that for example:


[Image: Inked_IMG_20180810_171941_LI.jpg]

Sorry for these noob questions but i must not make a mistake. I don't imagine the cost to order an engine in the USA…

Thank you again for your help!
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#30
This is one of my favorite pictures in the garage:


[Image: 20171003_200223.jpg]

BTW. The headers were disconnected and I left them in the car.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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