Don't use straps around the engine, as that is unsafe as the engine can fall out of the straps. Make sure you lift the engine securely always from the top, not from the bottom!!!
08-08-2018, 12:34 PM (This post was last modified: 08-08-2018, 12:36 PM by tony-muscle.)
I have used the intake plate adapter with no problems. I have also used straps making sure that I protected the straps at the edges of the block.
Edit: as said it is safer to pull from the top.
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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
That said, I recently bought an OTC load leveler. Seems like a really nice quality piece. Yes, it's made in China, but it much better quality than the typical Harbor Freight junk out there.
carb lift plate and just the chain on the engine hoist and maybe a friend to help keep it clear of the car and it will come right out, as long as everything is disconnected.
'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.
'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)
I have taken my engine out twice using the eye bracket connected to the exhaust manifolds and with the toploader still connected. I don't have headers to worry about, but I wish I'd bought a load leveler. If you do it this way, make sure the chains don't damage the valve cover if still on. Just make sure EVERYTHING is out the way. I even went as far as removing the front bumper as the hoist I borrowed was only a 1 ton and really too small for the job.
Also use a plug on the tailstock and TAPE IT IN!! ask me why?? if you're going to pull it all at once.