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Get Mach1 into 12.5 second zone
My buddy has been telling me I should replace my toploader with a C6 as it would be more consistent & quicker. I wasn't sure about the quicker part. I thought each gear change was maybe taking 2/10ths. So I extracted the audio from a video another mate did of me on my pb of 14.11. I extracted it with VLC then opened the mp3 file with Audacity. It clearly shows that each gear change is taking me 5/10ths! So that's 1.5 seconds right there. I don't know how long a C6 with a shift kit takes but I bet it's a lot quicker than me! I've been driving stick cars exclusively on the road for 30+ years so I thought I knew what I was doing. When my finances recover next year I'll look at getting a C6.
Hears what I did to my 73, I put a 514 inch 530 torque engine, Aluminum Heads very important to lighten the car, C6 transmission 11inch converter and shift kit, 3.50:1 posi traction, 10 inch wide tires, put the car on a diet got it down to 3100 pounds. ran easy upper 12s.

73 mustang are easy to lighten up just change the front bumper Crites sales fiberglass bumpers, get a fiberglass hood, Aluminum radiator, C6 transmission is lighter than FMX.
I'd like to shed some weight, hood would be a good start as I'd like more room for ram air on taller manifolds so maybe get the 'Dominator' style.

It's a shame they don't make the nicer 72 bumper in glass. I have searched before, most glass parts from Crites, Mustangs Plus etc look like they originate from US Body.

Ally heads are a real possibility when I rebuild the big motor end of next year. I've decided to run a 351C + toploader in the 2018 season as it's ready to go.
(11-01-2017, 08:10 AM)Duncan Mach72 Wrote: Hi all
Does anyone here drag their 71-73?

With stockish 429, mild cam, headers, toploader, 3.5:1 axle & Quick Times I got my Mach1 down to 14.11 @ 98mph. Fun but hardly impressive!

I'd like to get it into the 12.5 second zone with either 351C or 460 and still be streetable. Anyone got a car running around this level that can give me some suggestions?


If you want to stick with iron heads, Ron Robart at Fox Lake Racing in North Lawrence, Ohio has a CNC program to significantly improve them. He has a lot of pullers as customers and was one of the first machinists to work at TFS when it was owned by Rick and Mike Smith.

I would run a set of Ford Racing SCJ's, Kaase P51's or possibly the new AFR's. Those 385's are super strong, durable and produce sick torque with the right pieces. Leave the A460's to the race cars.
If you install a C6 then you should add about 40hp and 40tq to make up the difference because the auto trans will suck up about that much. I remember going from a C6 to a Toploader and was thrilled because of all of the extra power. Your buddy saying that an auto swap alone will make it quicker is not sage advise. A well built C4 with a 3500 stall and the supporting traction aids would probably make it quicker, but at what expense? A good C6 like an Art Carr with a shift kit and a 2400 stall would make you slower at the track. I know because that's where I came from and I don't regret my manual swap for a second.

You are not likely going to break the top loader so I'd stay with that for a while. Sounds like the most time to be shaved is from driving technique and that's free-99. Concentrate on traction/launching and suspension, then quickening up your shifts. Once you are consistent, then build in some more horsepower. An automatic swap is a lot of money to spend only to not go much faster.

Do you run drag radials or bias ply tires?

Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
Thanks for all the advice folks. At the moment I run the ordinary Hoosier Quick Times which I think are bias ply?

I'm putting the original 351C back in for this season with a 0.55" lift solid lifter cam, 10:1 cr, forged flat tops & an Edelbrock Air Gap. I managed to get these parts together over the last 5 years at good prices which is useful as funds are a bit tight at the moment. Engine is in the car, I am swapping the toploader input this week. Be interesting to see how it goes.

385 build will have to wait til next winter.
C6 is one heavy puppy when comparing to Toploader. C6 is also a power robber, it takes more hp than Toploader. Surely it changes quicker, but otherwise I am not thrilled about the C6. If you want to go fast, you might want to search for a C4. It can be build to hold great power and it won't cut your hp level from the engine. Its been said that C6 chews around 80 hp. If money is not an object, there is a extreme automatics in states that makes Th200R4 for BBF usage, it can hold up to +1000 hp with some great features like super light weight, overdrive, good gear ratios and yet it is very small package. Only bummers are it gm and it is not cheap. There are three of those here in Finland behind 521-598 cid engines.
I have an extra dominator hood for 71-73, it's here in Finland. I've got also a front glass bumber for '71-'72, they are for sale locally at the moment. I also have for sale a forged 532 cid kit and thick web 429 block just to mention... :Smile Dominator 4500 victor jr also, it'll fit under the Dominator hood...  
If you would like to hold your original hood, then the Torker II is not actually that bad. Many cobra guys use it and its not bad intake in 429/460. If you want a next to perfect street/strip shocks I can give you a contact information for a Finnish stock car driver. He is using Koni shocks as a platform and he knows how to make them work on street/roads/strip. They were not exactly cheap but I was only told "not to touch the adjustments" and I've been happy on curvy tarmacs and on strip. With 29.5x9-15 drag slicks my Mach lifts it's front tires with manual transmission. Very steady 1,7s 60ft. Runs 11s on quarter. Using cal-tracs, Grab-a-track 4 1/2 leaf springs and around 286 lbs front shocks, rollerized spring perches and subframe connectors. With this combo I like the car on street and on a countryside. It is no Le-Mans suspension but those shocks made it work good.
See you later and all the good with your project.
Hi Finmach. thanks for advice. I've been researching C4 vs C6. It seems that C4 can be built to take lots of power but will require frequent clutch replacement. C6 can nowadays be cheaply upgraded with E4OD/4R100 6 pinion planetaries etc & torrigton bearings for less friction. There are some guys on the 460 forum running a BBF powered altered into the 7s with a nearly stock C6!

I'd love to buy a lot of those parts from you but sadly my finances are fully committed for the next 6 months on a new blown methanol BBC for our altered and then we will have to replace the stock case powerglide too...

Maybe in a few months I can afford to buy the front bumper from you.
(11-03-2017, 09:57 AM)flstf09 Wrote: My first outing with my 72 this year wasn't as successful as I had hoped.My best run was 12.33 @110 mph lifting at about 1000'.I was launching very soft 60' were around 2 seconds.The 3.50 gear isn't a terrible choice if you are gonna go the 460 route.My car doesn't have any problem pulling a 3.50 gear.
Keep in mind a stockish 460 might not run as good as a stockish 429. Most 460s were smog Era and most 429s were pre smog as a rule of thumb.
What heads do you run?

That is a GREAT time, esp. @ 1000ft. mark. Ur almost in the 11`s with stock 3.50 gears. your combo sounds great.
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