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gauge wiring
#11
(08-16-2018, 07:19 AM)naa10104 Wrote:
(08-16-2018, 06:27 AM)midlife Wrote:
(08-16-2018, 04:44 AM)naa10104 Wrote: Hello,

       Thanks to everyone for the info. !  Is the red/yellow wire to the guage cluster a "run" only source or just the best place to tie into ?  For my clarification, the dash cluster connector is the large, rectangular plug that plugs into the back of the guages cluster, in my case the speedometer/fuel guage/idiot lights ?  Thanks again !

Steeve
Yes, yes and Yes.

Hello,

      My eyes and back/shoulders are not in great shape.  The plug on the back of the instrument cluster is very, very hard to get to.  Any suggestions on the best place to access the red/yellow wire ? Any alternatives ?  I can get to the fuse block much easier but want to volt guage to be as accurate as possible ... thanks again.

steve

 Steve, Midlife is without doubt the most qualified to give advice on electrical issues, connections and the like, so best to follow his directions.
However, the best way in my opinion to reach the dash cluster plug, is to remove the speedo cluster from the dash. If you have not done that before, it's quite simple, but needs to be done carefully. Don't forget the speedo cable. You'll need squeeze the tabs on the cable connector to remove the cable. You are doing what I've already done and trust me, I found the best way was to make as much 'room' as possible to work without turning myself into a pretzel. Not only did I remove the dash top, speedo cluster, center facia, radio and heater controls (that's a fun job!!) I removed the drivers seat to make access way easier. I now wish I'd taken pics of every stage of this conversion as others are asking the same questions, but typically, I just like to get it done asap.
 While you're at it and this deep into adding extra gauges, I would strongly suggest spending the extra couple hundred bucks and buy Rocketman's tach conversion for idiot lights and I'm pretty sure you can feed it from the same connection as the volt gauge connection Midlife suggested. (I connected my tach and volt gauge to another switched 12V wire as it had already been cut by a PO.)  Your going to drill a 1" hole through the firewall where I suggested in the pics I sent you previously, so you can also run the green negative wire to the coil along with the temp and oil tubing. If you need me to resend the pics I do have, PM me or email.
Geoff.
  Reply
#12
(08-16-2018, 08:14 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(08-16-2018, 07:19 AM)naa10104 Wrote:
(08-16-2018, 06:27 AM)midlife Wrote: Yes, yes and Yes.

Hello,

      My eyes and back/shoulders are not in great shape.  The plug on the back of the instrument cluster is very, very hard to get to.  Any suggestions on the best place to access the red/yellow wire ? Any alternatives ?  I can get to the fuse block much easier but want to volt guage to be as accurate as possible ... thanks again.

steve

 Steve, Midlife is without doubt the most qualified to give advice on electrical issues, connections and the like, so best to follow his directions.
However, the best way in my opinion to reach the dash cluster plug, is to remove the speedo cluster from the dash. If you have not done that before, it's quite simple, but needs to be done carefully. Don't forget the speedo cable. You'll need squeeze the tabs on the cable connector to remove the cable.  You are doing what I've already done and trust me, I found the best way was to make as much 'room' as possible to work without turning myself into a pretzel. Not only did I remove the dash top, speedo cluster, center facia, radio and heater controls (that's a fun job!!) I removed the drivers seat to make access way easier. I now wish I'd taken pics of every stage of this conversion as others are asking the same questions, but typically, I just like to get it done asap.
 While you're at it and this deep into adding extra gauges, I would strongly suggest spending the extra couple hundred bucks and buy Rocketman's tach conversion for idiot lights and I'm pretty sure you can feed it from the same connection as the volt gauge connection Midlife suggested. (I connected my tach and volt gauge to another switched 12V wire as it had already been cut by a PO.)  Your going to drill a 1" hole through the firewall where I suggested in the pics I sent you previously, so you can also run the green negative wire to the coil along with the temp and oil tubing. If you need me to resend the pics I do have, PM me or email.
Geoff.
Hello,

    Thanks for the info.  I have had my guage cluster out more times than I want to remember and am really trying to avoid that job again.  It is hard on all the components/plastic etc. I do have the center bezel out, glove box out, HVAC controls out, dash pad out, etc.  Already drilled the hole, starting to connect all the tubes, electrical connections.  Curious if I could just make the volt guage connection where your diagram shows at the fuse block ... how did that work for you as far as the volt guage operation/accuracy etc. ?  Thanks again !

steve
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#13
(08-16-2018, 09:07 AM)naa10104 Wrote: Hello,

    Thanks for the info.  I have had my guage cluster out more times than I want to remember and am really trying to avoid that job again.  It is hard on all the components/plastic etc. I do have the center bezel out, glove box out, HVAC controls out, dash pad out, etc.  Already drilled the hole, starting to connect all the tubes, electrical connections.  Curious if I could just make the volt guage connection where your diagram shows at the fuse block ... how did that work for you as far as the volt guage operation/accuracy etc. ?  Thanks again !

steve
 To save valuable space, I deleted the prior conversation.
The connection to the fuse block is good when the ACC terminal has the fuse available. Mine didn't, no ACC!! That diagram was sent from a reliable source. My volt meter runs at 13-14 volts and I'm told that is good as it shows the alternator is working. I did expect to see 12 V and I queried that, but without digging through, I can't remember who verified it. That terminal is switched.
Geoff.
  Reply
#14
thanks, hopefully I will be starting it tomorrow to make sure of no leaks and correct function. Then I can put the dash and center bezel back together.

steve
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