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gauge wiring
#1
Hello,

      Two questions concerning wiring 3 mechanical guages.  Instructions for the lighting circuit advise to connect the red wire into the circuit between the dimmer control, (headlight Switch(?) and the dash lights.  It would be easier for me to simply cut into the wiring for the two light bulbs for my console clock as it is close to the center dash guages.  Would this be ok ?  Have three small bulbs, two wires each for the guages.

      Second question, which was answered before, can't find the info now.  A member advised that there is tab/connection point at the fuse block where I could connect the positive wire for the voltmeter.  This connection point is switched so the guage will only be hot when the ignition is on.  Does this sound correct ?  Thanks

steve
  Reply
#2
(08-15-2018, 06:19 AM)naa10104 Wrote: Hello,

      Two questions concerning wiring 3 mechanical guages.  Instructions for the lighting circuit advise to connect the red wire into the circuit between the dimmer control, (headlight Switch(?) and the dash lights.  It would be easier for me to simply cut into the wiring for the two light bulbs for my console clock as it is close to the center dash guages.  Would this be ok ?  Have three small bulbs, two wires each for the guages.

      Second question, which was answered before, can't find the info now.  A member advised that there is tab/connection point at the fuse block where I could connect the positive wire for the voltmeter.  This connection point is switched so the guage will only be hot when the ignition is on.  Does this sound correct ?  Thanks

steve

 Steve, we have discussed this, but for the lights, you can splice into a wire that operates dash lights, light blue with red stripe if I'm not mistaken.
 When I did mine and I think I mentioned this before, some Yo-Yo cut all the wires to the radio to install an aftermarket one instead of just leaving the plugs in place and using splice connectors to power the radio and light. I recently made proper soldered connections to clean it all up. I used bullet connectors covered by shrink tubing. ( so I can take apart again if necessary)
For the volt meter, you definitely need a 12V switched connection. Again, my car did NOT have any accessories and therefore no terminal on the fuse block, but IF your car's fuse block HAS this terminal, then use it. If not you will need to find a suitable gauge wire that is 12 V switched and splice into that. I added a tach conversion so I needed to find a good reliable connection to power that and I also use that to power the volt gauge. In comes to looking at what you have available to tap into, BUT make sure ALL your connections are solid.
Geoff.


Attached Files
.pdf   volt meter wire.pdf (Size: 256.45 KB / Downloads: 7)
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#3
(08-15-2018, 07:03 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(08-15-2018, 06:19 AM)naa10104 Wrote: Hello,

      Two questions concerning wiring 3 mechanical guages.  Instructions for the lighting circuit advise to connect the red wire into the circuit between the dimmer control, (headlight Switch(?) and the dash lights.  It would be easier for me to simply cut into the wiring for the two light bulbs for my console clock as it is close to the center dash guages.  Would this be ok ?  Have three small bulbs, two wires each for the guages.

      Second question, which was answered before, can't find the info now.  A member advised that there is tab/connection point at the fuse block where I could connect the positive wire for the voltmeter.  This connection point is switched so the guage will only be hot when the ignition is on.  Does this sound correct ?  Thanks

steve

 Steve, we have discussed this, but for the lights, you can splice into a wire that operates dash lights, light blue with red stripe if I'm not mistaken.
 When I did mine and I think I mentioned this before, some Yo-Yo cut all the wires to the radio to install an aftermarket one instead of just leaving the plugs in place and using splice connectors to power the radio and light. I recently made proper soldered connections to clean it all up. I used bullet connectors covered by shrink tubing. ( so I can take apart again if necessary)
For the volt meter, you definitely need a 12V switched connection. Again, my car did NOT have any accessories and therefore no terminal on the fuse block, but IF your car's fuse block HAS this terminal, then use it. If not you will need to find a suitable gauge wire that is 12 V switched and splice into that. I added a tach conversion so I needed to find a good reliable connection to power that and I also use that to power the volt gauge. In comes to looking at what you have available to tap into, BUT make sure ALL your connections are solid.
Geoff.

As always ... thanks for your help.  Making progress on the install, but this is definitely one of those projects that has many unanticipated issues/adjustments.  When I get it done I'll let you know how it went.  Thanks again !
Steve
  Reply
#4
(08-15-2018, 07:25 AM)naa10104 Wrote:
(08-15-2018, 07:03 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(08-15-2018, 06:19 AM)naa10104 Wrote: Hello,

      Two questions concerning wiring 3 mechanical guages.  Instructions for the lighting circuit advise to connect the red wire into the circuit between the dimmer control, (headlight Switch(?) and the dash lights.  It would be easier for me to simply cut into the wiring for the two light bulbs for my console clock as it is close to the center dash guages.  Would this be ok ?  Have three small bulbs, two wires each for the guages.

      Second question, which was answered before, can't find the info now.  A member advised that there is tab/connection point at the fuse block where I could connect the positive wire for the voltmeter.  This connection point is switched so the guage will only be hot when the ignition is on.  Does this sound correct ?  Thanks

steve

 Steve, we have discussed this, but for the lights, you can splice into a wire that operates dash lights, light blue with red stripe if I'm not mistaken.
 When I did mine and I think I mentioned this before, some Yo-Yo cut all the wires to the radio to install an aftermarket one instead of just leaving the plugs in place and using splice connectors to power the radio and light. I recently made proper soldered connections to clean it all up. I used bullet connectors covered by shrink tubing. ( so I can take apart again if necessary)
For the volt meter, you definitely need a 12V switched connection. Again, my car did NOT have any accessories and therefore no terminal on the fuse block, but IF your car's fuse block HAS this terminal, then use it. If not you will need to find a suitable gauge wire that is 12 V switched and splice into that. I added a tach conversion so I needed to find a good reliable connection to power that and I also use that to power the volt gauge. In comes to looking at what you have available to tap into, BUT make sure ALL your connections are solid.
Geoff.

As always ... thanks for your help.  Making progress on the install, but this is definitely one of those projects that has many unanticipated issues/adjustments.  When I get it done I'll let you know how it went.  Thanks again !
Steve
 You're welcome and good luck finishing it. You'll love it when it's done, don't know how I put up with no gauges before.
Geoff.
  Reply
#5
I think Midlife sells the accessory fuse holder.  Simple to install.
  Reply
#6
(08-15-2018, 02:10 PM)71fast Wrote: I think Midlife sells the accessory fuse holder.  Simple to install.

 THAT would make life much easier. I hate to cut or splice wires when it can be avoided, but sometimes there's no other option.
Good info for others thinking about installing gauges or whatever for that mater.
Geoff.
  Reply
#7
The only "tab" on the fuse box is the ACC buss extender, which is 20 amp fused. This will work in both ACC and RUN positions, but not in CRANK. I prefer to use the RUN-only line to power a voltmeter to keep the battery from draining and seeing how much voltage drop there is during cranking. Unfortunately, there is no provision in a 71-73 underdash harness for this line. The best place to tap into it is by using one of the red/yellow wires going to the dash cluster connector. These lines are fused, which is an additional benefit.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
  Reply
#8
(08-15-2018, 07:06 PM)midlife Wrote: The only "tab" on the fuse box is the ACC buss extender, which is 20 amp fused.  This will work in both ACC and RUN positions, but not in CRANK.  I prefer to use the RUN-only line to power a voltmeter to keep the battery from draining and seeing how much voltage drop there is during cranking.  Unfortunately, there is no provision in a 71-73 underdash harness for this line.  The best place to tap into it is by using one of the red/yellow wires going to the dash cluster connector.  These lines are fused, which is an additional benefit.

Hello,

       Thanks to everyone for the info. !  Is the red/yellow wire to the guage cluster a "run" only source or just the best place to tie into ?  For my clarification, the dash cluster connector is the large, rectangular plug that plugs into the back of the guages cluster, in my case the speedometer/fuel guage/idiot lights ?  Thanks again !

Steeve
  Reply
#9
(08-16-2018, 04:44 AM)naa10104 Wrote:
(08-15-2018, 07:06 PM)midlife Wrote: The only "tab" on the fuse box is the ACC buss extender, which is 20 amp fused.  This will work in both ACC and RUN positions, but not in CRANK.  I prefer to use the RUN-only line to power a voltmeter to keep the battery from draining and seeing how much voltage drop there is during cranking.  Unfortunately, there is no provision in a 71-73 underdash harness for this line.  The best place to tap into it is by using one of the red/yellow wires going to the dash cluster connector.  These lines are fused, which is an additional benefit.

Hello,

       Thanks to everyone for the info. !  Is the red/yellow wire to the guage cluster a "run" only source or just the best place to tie into ?  For my clarification, the dash cluster connector is the large, rectangular plug that plugs into the back of the guages cluster, in my case the speedometer/fuel guage/idiot lights ?  Thanks again !

Steeve
Yes, yes and Yes.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
  Reply
#10
(08-16-2018, 06:27 AM)midlife Wrote:
(08-16-2018, 04:44 AM)naa10104 Wrote:
(08-15-2018, 07:06 PM)midlife Wrote: The only "tab" on the fuse box is the ACC buss extender, which is 20 amp fused.  This will work in both ACC and RUN positions, but not in CRANK.  I prefer to use the RUN-only line to power a voltmeter to keep the battery from draining and seeing how much voltage drop there is during cranking.  Unfortunately, there is no provision in a 71-73 underdash harness for this line.  The best place to tap into it is by using one of the red/yellow wires going to the dash cluster connector.  These lines are fused, which is an additional benefit.

Hello,

       Thanks to everyone for the info. !  Is the red/yellow wire to the guage cluster a "run" only source or just the best place to tie into ?  For my clarification, the dash cluster connector is the large, rectangular plug that plugs into the back of the guages cluster, in my case the speedometer/fuel guage/idiot lights ?  Thanks again !

Steeve
Yes, yes and Yes.

Hello,

      My eyes and back/shoulders are not in great shape.  The plug on the back of the instrument cluster is very, very hard to get to.  Any suggestions on the best place to access the red/yellow wire ? Any alternatives ?  I can get to the fuse block much easier but want to volt guage to be as accurate as possible ... thanks again.

steve
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