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Fuel system replacement - 71 Mach 1
#31
(04-21-2017, 11:40 AM)Don C Wrote: Does it show 10 ohms before it goes open? If so, my guess is that it's not an issue. The float probably travels further than the resistor does and the wiper goes past the end of the resistor.

 That could be Don. I'll recheck it. It looked like it was at about 20 ohms before going open. As I said, it worked before although the gauge never quite reached full, but that could be the gauge, not the sender.
Thanks again for your help and insight.
Geoff.
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#32
If it just goes to 20 ohms that would be the reason gauge doesn't read full. At least that's better than showing 1/4 of a tank when it runs out.


“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#33
(04-21-2017, 01:01 PM)Don C Wrote: If it just goes to 20 ohms that would be the reason gauge doesn't read full. At least that's better than showing 1/4 of a tank when it runs out.
 True. Lets face it, it's only the bottom quarter that matters like I said before.
 I whimped out of doing anything today, just didn't feel like crawling around under it. Just one of those days, but it may be Monday before I can get back at it. Weather's crap anyway.
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#34
Okay, it's in and done. I think I'll be a bit more thoughtful before I tackle another job like that. If only repop companies would (or could) make parts that actually fit the first time, life would be soooo much easier. Like I said before, the 3/8 SS line I bought from NPD headed from front to back, but that was about all I can say for it. The front end tubes weren't too bad, just minor tweaking, but the backend, I had to practically reshape it completely. Lots of cursing, getting up and down on an arthritic hip, you name it. What I should have done was install the tank first to get a better idea of how I needed to reshape the fuel line at the tank connection. To be fair, these tubes are not wrapped and protected, so it is possible that it was bent or twisted somehow in storage, who knows!! 
As I mentioned, the trunk under floor was amazing, so all I did was to clean it up and use some Slop Grey paint on the rails and other non important areas, Then I used a coat of Fluid Film a wax rust preventer over the original Ford Slop Grey, so no worries going forward.
I put in 5 US gallons, 19 liters of gas and with the car sitting level, it showed only 1/8th tank, should have been 1/4. So I jacked the car up as high as possible on the left side, took the sending unit out and reshaped the arm a tad, bending it downward so the float will read a lower resistance or 1/4 tank. It is right on now so Ill leave it in for now until the replacement come from RockAuto. Even then it may just stay there if it is accurate .
Pictures are; the fuel line in place, the tank with rubber pads attached and in place.


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#35
(04-21-2017, 01:01 PM)Don C Wrote: If it just goes to 20 ohms that would be the reason gauge doesn't read full. At least that's better than showing 1/4 of a tank when it runs out.

 Don, I just filled the tank to full. The gauge reads just below the full mark and pretty much where it always was, but with 5 US gallons, in an empty tank, I set it to read 1/4 tank and that's more important obviously. So it looks like you're right. at 20 ohms, it doesn't quite get to the full mark. Oh well, how sad, too bad!
BTW, that tank full cost me approx. $80 US or $112 Canadian. Bet you wish you live here Eh!!
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#36
I like the small spacers you used on top of the tank. In my case I kept the stock line from the tank to the pump, but replaced the line from the pump to the carb. Actually, it is now the line from the pump to the electric pump of the EFI system. My new fuel lines in the engine bay are 3/8" Russell Pro Classics. They are expensive when you add the fittings, but it looks nice!


        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#37
(04-26-2017, 04:49 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: I like the small spacers you used on top of the tank. In my case I kept the stock line from the tank to the pump, but replaced the line from the pump to the carb. Actually, it is now the line from the pump to the electric pump of the EFI system. My new fuel lines in the engine bay are 3/8" Russell Pro Classics. They are expensive when you add the fittings, but it looks nice!

 Yes, thanks. I decided solid rubber was a good bet even though there was not much sign of actual rubbing on the trunk floor. There was signs on the tank though, which is kind of weird, This was before the post regarding the Ford pads on the tank top surface. It was already done so why change it.
I can't afford the EFI route unfortunately, so what I got is what I got. No doubt you have seen the pump to carb 3/8" line I fab'd up in a previous post, but that is to a solid supply line to the Holley carb.
It is all working out quite well now so I hope long term it will be worth the expense, hassle, swearing, and pain to do it. At least now I can go run Petro-Can 94 octane fuel with f'n ethanol!!
Thanks to all for your positive comments and support,
Geoff.
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#38
One last post on this from my side. I now know the reason I decided to spend the big bucks and buy stainless steel fuel lines. I was just cleaning up after this "project" and as I started to bend up the old line for the garbage and as the first picture shows, the line just folded and broke. It is not very clear, but there was considerable rust at that point. The second picture, a bit out of focus I'm afraid shows how much rust there actually is in the line. Fuel lines as well as exhaust pipes, rust from the inside out, not the other way around usually.


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#39
Well, I said the last post was the last post, but when I opened up a section of the old fuel line just now and saw how much RUST was actually in the line, I had to update with a couple of pictures for you out there who are thinking your original lines will be fine. I think not, but that's your decision. I could have cut anywhere along the line and the results would be the same or worse. I am more than happy now that I spent the 100 bucks on SS lines even though they needed a lot of finessing to get a proper fit.
Geoff.


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