• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Fuel Sending Unit Replacement DIY
#1
Wrench 
When I got this car a year ago the fuel gauge didnt work.

After a couple weeks of ownership it started working I think because I
cleaned the ground connection in the trunk by the latch.

A few weeks ago it stopped working and would only come up to E.

I got a replacement sending unit from a mustang supplier $30.

I unplugged the sender wire from old and connected to new and checked
the gauge with the float in different positions worked perfectly.

I disconnected the fuel line at the sender and drained the tank then
unlocked the retaining ring with a hammer and short piece of wood
dowel to eliminate the chance of a spark. loosened unit
and drained more fuel from tank until dripping then jacked up car a
bit on driver side to stop dripping fuel.

Funny the sock strainer was missing from the pickup tube perhaps
in the past it got plugged and someone put compressed air down
the line and blew the sock off?

Pretty strait forward to replace the unit only trick is to use a bit of
grease to hold the O-ring in place on the tank while fishing the new
unit in place.

The lock-ring that came with the new unit was cheap looking so I used
the old one and put a new length of fuel line on and job done.

Took abt 2hrs overall and how nice is it to know how much fuel is in the car!

Hope this helps somebody down the road.

Regards
Paul
  Reply
#2
Paul
Thanks for the writeup.
  Reply
#3
A lot of folks say to use a brass punch to rotate the retaining ring, as the brass won't spark and ignite the gas. I see nothing wrong with using a piece of stout wood instead.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
  Reply
#4
Great Point ML

Guess I was living on the edge with a steel punch
But it only took a few slight taps to loosen it.

Maybe a short length of a wood dowel.
  Reply
#5
Thanks, will be doing that job soon as the car arrives
  Reply
#6
rocket366;212709 Wrote:When I got this car a year ago the fuel gauge didnt work.

After a couple weeks of ownership it started working I think because I
cleaned the ground connection in the trunk by the latch.

A few weeks ago it stopped working and would only come up to E.

I got a replacement sending unit from a mustang supplier $30.

I unplugged the sender wire from old and connected to new and checked
the gauge with the float in different positions worked perfectly.

I disconnected the fuel line at the sender and drained the tank then
unlocked the retaining ring with a hammer and short piece of wood
dowel to eliminate the chance of a spark. loosened unit
and drained more fuel from tank until dripping then jacked up car a
bit on driver side to stop dripping fuel.

Funny the sock strainer was missing from the pickup tube perhaps
in the past it got plugged and someone put compressed air down
the line and blew the sock off?

Pretty strait forward to replace the unit only trick is to use a bit of
grease to hold the O-ring in place on the tank while fishing the new
unit in place.

The lock-ring that came with the new unit was cheap looking so I used
the old one and put a new length of fuel line on and job done.

Took abt 2hrs overall and how nice is it to know how much fuel is in the car!

Hope this helps somebody down the road.

Regards
Paul
I started doing this job today and got as far as fitting the new sender unit.....then noticed the outlet pipe on the new one is pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction!!!! So back to NPD tomorrow to exchange it and then hopefully fitted and away we go - I like the tip about the grease to hold the new ring in place!

Nigel B

1972 Mach 1 Cobra Jet 4 speed

  Reply
#7
I just did mine a week ago. I used spray adhesive on the gasket to hold it, works best if you stick it to the tank and not the ring then put a drop of lubricant on the other side- I just used a little spit. I used a brass drift, but hardwood should work fine, there are inner recesses to turn against that make it easier than trying to turn with the outer section of flange.

I started with a 1/4 tank or less and finally jacked the driver side up as high as my jack would permit and used a couple of jackstands as that level was still too high to remove it on level ground.

My sock was missing too. In my case I had thought that on since my initial start I had the fuel lines reversed in the engine compartment, the pump must have blown it off.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#8
the stainless steel version has the tube routed correctly the steel version has the tube mounted the wrong way.

when calibrating the gauge you need to drain the tank as much as possible.
install the fuel sender, hook it up and put 5 gallons in the tank, the gauge should read about 1/4 tank.
if not you must drain the tank, pull the sender and bend the float arm and reassemble and retest.
  Reply
#9
72HCODE;238242 Wrote:the stainless steel version has the tube routed correctly the steel version has the tube mounted the wrong way.

when calibrating the gauge you need to drain the tank as much as possible.
install the fuel sender, hook it up and put 5 gallons in the tank, the gauge should read about 1/4 tank.
if not you must drain the tank, pull the sender and bend the float arm and reassemble and retest.
Thanks - went back to NPD this morning and bought the 'improved design" version that has the pipe pointing in the right direction!
Greattips here everyone - thank you!

Nigel B

1972 Mach 1 Cobra Jet 4 speed

  Reply
#10
Bravo I'll be doing this replacement on my car next. I want to bring down the tank and clean it before firing my engine for the first time so I figure I would install a new one while it is down.
  Reply
Share Thread:  




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)