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Frustration setting in
#1
So I have replaced bad battery, alternator (checked to be good at store) and now my voltage regulator.

Still my alternator light is on, on the dash.

Charging to the battery still appears to be non existent as on the volt meter it reads 12.06.

So where to now?

I'm thinking I'm going to try change the wiring out, being 40 years old it's looking a bit rough, I just re electrical taped everything to make sure it was not touching anything.

Could a bad water pump slow the belts down to affect the charging system?

I'm desperate now.

Any input would be awesome [Image: 947836fe8fb60de27f2f9ead2ca03b6f.jpg][Image: 99aba299b5ed5fc8401f4bf51873f190.jpg]


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This volt pic was before I replaced bad battery just realized its reading right at 12 now


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#2
You could cheat and buy a powermaster 1 wire 100 amp alternator from summit racing. I have one and it has been an excellent upgrade. It runs my huge stereo, electric fan and increased lighting with no problems whatsover. Good luck, I have my fair share of wiring issues with my car so I feel your pain.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#3
I had only heard about changing to a one wire setup today. Is there a conversion kit that is sold?


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#4
It is a very easy swap, the only down side to it is you won't have a functioning "alt" light in your cluster. I did the swap a while back and will never switch back to the original set up. If you go with a 1 wire alternator let me know if you need step by step help hooking it up.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#5
I did it on my car. Powermaster is one option, but a Ford 3G alternator will swap in easily.

I used something like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-ONE-WIRE-FORD-...Sw&vxp=mtr

but a stock 3 G alternator with a v groove pulley will work fine. There are apparently a few tricks to getting the dummy light to function properly with this set up, but I'm running full gauges and didn't have dummy lights so I didn't go too far with it.

Here is a thread with my information and a few others as well. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-one-w...alternator

I doubt the water pump would be an issue, unless you had a lot of belt slippage.

I suspect your wiring is the culprit and is either not exciting the circuit properly or your new voltage regulator is still not working.

I subsequently moved my battery to the trunk and added 30+ feet of 2 Ga wire and still get 14+ volts at idle

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#6
How well is your engine running? I have seen shorts/poor connections in ignition circuit, (i.e., ignition coil), show Alternator is not charging.

1971 Mustang
Grabber Lime with black deluxe interior
302 engine with C-4 transmission and 9" rear end with 3.50 gears
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#7
Engine was running really good till it sat for three months while being painted and I had back surgery. Then the first time I started it just to let it run it spewed coolant into the over flow tank and out. Never done this in the whole time I have owned it.

Flushed the radiator, refilled and changed the radiator cap seems to be ok now.

Right now the car cuts out if I don't apply a little bit of gas pedal. Which originally made me think fuel delivery. Also had me chasing my tail for a little while.


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#8
My son's 78 Ford was running poorly, voltage going from 11 to 6 volts in a very short duration at the starter solenoid 'I' terminal -- it was a loose connection at the ignition coil.

At one point we also thought it was the carb because it was backfiring but we were able to rule it out by swapping with a known good carb.

1971 Mustang
Grabber Lime with black deluxe interior
302 engine with C-4 transmission and 9" rear end with 3.50 gears
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#9
Thanks chris this maybe the issue I changed radiator hoses and mace knocked it I'll check it out today


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#10
The alternator harness is just a few wires. Have you run a continuity test on the harness? You've bought all new stuff except that, so that is about all that is left.

[Image: 4zw1hv.png]
Dave

1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger
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