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Front Suspension Rebuild on my 71
#1
I am researching some much needed work for my 71.  I really need to replace the front suspension.  Its noisy, and loose, ball joints don't have much life on them.

I saw this kit at Ohio Mustang.....

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_p...temid=2358


It seems like a pretty good deal for what you get.

I would like a new set of shocks to go with it.  What are you guys running?

Theres a lot I need to do to this car.  I also have an issue with one of the steering arm ball joints as well.

I want to do disc brakes up front too, but I want something that will clear my 14" wheels (4 wheel Drum brakes at the moment).
I already have a booster to install.  I still think I'm having trouble with my distribution valve.  So I'm going to replace it with a disc/drum prop valve.  Hopefully that will help.

This is one of those projects that I'm going to have to collect parts for several months before I can dive in.  I want to replace everything with a ball joint, disc brakes, clean all the oil and crud off of everything, maybe even remove the fenders and blast all of the underlying sheet metal, epoxy prime, POR-15, and Paint then re-install suspension and fenders.
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#2
I have never been a huge fan of "kits". It does not state the manufacturer of the arms etc so quality and longevity would be in questions. I purchased all of the individual parts from Rock Auto using all MOOG stuff. Was very nice quality and price was cheap as well.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#3
Ohio Mustang is one of the better suppliers out there. It would be worth a conversation with them about any of their kits before you purchase one to make sure it fits your needs.

---
Mike
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#4
[ I want to replace everything clean all maybe even remove...]
Sounds like we'll have soon a new project thread to read!! Smile

The kit is nice. I might hurt piggy for one of these soon too.
@don if you read this, what is the black on the parts? A basic coating or a durable paint?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#5
While I'm a big supporter of Don and recommend him every chance I get, I never buy suspension or brake parts from a restoration parts supplier unless absolutely necessary.Had a couple bad experiences and with other places and never went back. I now buy those things primarily from RockAuto. Prices are fantastic and you can pick your level of quality. Top of the line Moog components will set you back around the same, possibly less.


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#6
(11-07-2018, 07:32 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: While I'm a big supporter of Don and recommend him every chance I get, I never buy suspension or brake parts from a restoration parts supplier unless absolutely necessary.Had a couple bad experiences and with other places and never went back. I now buy those things primarily from RockAuto. Prices are fantastic and you can pick your level of quality. Top of the line Moog components will set you back around the same, possibly less.

Ok, same question, on these Moog's components, what's the protection on them?
Is it a durable finish or is it that same cheap thin black coating as you see on many parts these days?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#7
It was pretty thick black paint on mine (mood). Took quite a bit to grind it down so I could weld my plates on the bottom of the LCAs.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#8
Make sure you get high quality rubber strut rod bushings. Urethane is too stiff and will lead to strut rod failure (ask me how I know....) and Midolyne (or whatever that stuff is) cracked and fell apart PLUS it is stiff.

From what I know, repro control arms are not as thick as OEM. Rebuilding upper OEM arms can be fussy on the shaft side, but you can get them blasted and powder coated before reassembly.
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#9
interesting thoughts guys.

When changing out the control arms, will I need a spring compressor?
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#10
Yes. You need to remove the springs.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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