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Front suspension
#11
(10-24-2018, 07:37 AM)jowens1126 Wrote: Sweet stuff guys.  

Where do you guys get a quick ratio steering box?

Pick and pull self service wrecking yard.  About $75, plus another $40 for a rebuild kit and a little paint.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-play...ebird-12-7
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#12
(10-24-2018, 08:20 AM)Bentworker Wrote:
(10-24-2018, 07:37 AM)jowens1126 Wrote: Sweet stuff guys.  

Where do you guys get a quick ratio steering box?

Pick and pull self service wrecking yard.  About $75, plus another $40 for a rebuild kit and a little paint.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-play...ebird-12-7

 But, and as we've discussed before, getting replacement "balls" is the problem I'm having. According to my 71 Ford Mustang manual, there are 6 different sizes, the purpose of which is to adjust or remove the play in the steering. Tightening the sector shaft or the input shaft is the wrong thing to do. There are set specs for this.
If someone has information as to where these ball sets can be purchased, I'm all ears. The professional rebuilder will not sell parts, I've asked and the local Ford dealership has no idea either.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#13
(10-24-2018, 09:59 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(10-24-2018, 08:20 AM)Bentworker Wrote:
(10-24-2018, 07:37 AM)jowens1126 Wrote: Sweet stuff guys.  

Where do you guys get a quick ratio steering box?

Pick and pull self service wrecking yard.  About $75, plus another $40 for a rebuild kit and a little paint.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-play...ebird-12-7

 But, and as we've discussed before, getting replacement "balls" is the problem I'm having. According to my 71 Ford Mustang manual, there are 6 different sizes, the purpose of which is to adjust or remove the play in the steering. Tightening the sector shaft or the input shaft is the wrong thing to do. There are set specs for this.
If someone has information as to where these ball sets can be purchased, I'm all ears. The professional rebuilder will not sell parts, I've asked and the local Ford dealership has no idea either.
Geoff.


I just used the entire moving assembly out of the donor box, sector shaft, ball screw, balls, piston.  Figure if it was one matched set in the old box it should be one matched set in the new box.  If the entire ball screw assembly is worn enough that it needs larger balls I pitch it in the trash and find another one.  There are normally plenty of Jeep Grand Cherokees in the wrecking yard to shop around and find the least beat up donor.

If you are willing to share that section of the manual in the quick ratio box thread that would be excellent, as you know trying to find info on the steering boxes is worse than trying to find transmission info.  It is like a black art where the rebuilders keep the info in a shroud of darkness.
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#14
Bentworker,
Below is the ball size specs from the Ford manual. I can't just photocopy it for copyright reasons, got into sh*t for that before.
There are 6 sizes listed.
Code size   Mean dia.   Size range of ball (inches)
  6             0.28117      0.28112-0.28122
  7             0.28125      0.28120-0.28130    Stock size.
  8             0.28133      0.28128-0.28138
  9             0.28141      0.28136-0.28146
  10           0.28149      0.28144-0.28154
  11           0.28157      0.28152-0.28162

 As you can see, there is only 1/10000" difference throughout the range. As a former machinist and even with digital measuring equipment we have today, I have no idea how Ford could work to 5 decimals back in the day. However, when one considers that over the 24 balls in these boxes, that adds up to 0.0024" and that results in a load of slop imo. From what I've been able to learn, the increased ball sizes compensate for wear and variance not only in the worm track, but the balls as well.

There are also very tight tolerance listed. Here are the important ones.
 Sector shaft end play (linkage disconnected)     .002" MAX
 Sector shaft mesh load - (total over mechanical center position must be 4-8 lb-in Greater than worm bearing preload torque)   18 lb-in Max
 Worm bearing preload  4-7 lb-in. NOTE: 3 lb-in in excess of valve assy drag. Total worm bearing preload and seal drag not to exceed 8 lb-in.

 And that guys is the Technical stuff. Without spending hundreds of dollars on highly accurate Lb-In torque measuring tools, I guess finger tight will be close. The specs supplied with the rebuild kits and on You Tube for Saginaw 800 S/boxes is as close as we can come.
Hope that totally confuses everybody,
Geoff.

EDIT UPDATE: I just did a bit of research for BEAM TYPE small torque wrenches. Amazon.com or Amazon.ca have what looks to be close to the perfect tool (or as close as we'll get) to set up steering boxes. Look up "Performance Tool M195" It's 1/4 drive 0-80 in lb. The ad say 0-60, but the picture show 0-80 and the reviews reflect that. For $22.95 US or 43.48 Can +free shipping, it's a steal.
Thought I'd pass that along.

I learn something new every day!
[+] 1 user Likes Stanglover's post
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#15
awesome! Thanks
  Reply
#16
Rustystang,

Check out Open Tracking racing-


[Image: 71-73-Camber-Kit-OTR.png]

[Image: 71-73-Lower-CA-OTR.png]

[Image: 71-73-Roller-Spring-Perch-OTR.png]

[Image: 71-73-Strut-Rod-OTR.png]

[Image: 71-73-Upper-CA-OTR.png]


I have the upper control arms and the roller spring perches. Nice parts for street driving.

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne
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#17
Rustystang,

You can send your standard box, have it rebuilt and convert to the 12.7:1 ratio.

http://www.powersteering.com/
Stock appearing, exciting and fun to drive FAST 12.7:1 ratio

I have this on 1973 Mustang coupe. Wow, what a difference!

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne
  Reply
#18
(10-24-2018, 02:17 PM)mustang7173 Wrote: Rustystang,

You can send your standard box, have it rebuilt and convert to the 12.7:1 ratio.

http://www.powersteering.com/
Stock appearing, exciting and fun to drive FAST 12.7:1 ratio

I have this on 1973 Mustang coupe. Wow, what a difference!

 For someone living in the US, that's a great option. Takes the guesswork out and you know what you've got. For me living in Canada, the exchange rate and shipping cross border, make it unjustifiably expensive at this time. For now, I'll have to trust my own work.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#19
(10-23-2018, 11:40 PM)Rustystang Wrote: For those who have the street or track coil overs, which setup did you go with? The street, or sport shocks? I’d like your feed back on how your car drives with the coil overs. Thanks

I went with the "sport" but I believe the street would be just fine as well. But for 50 bucks why not go to the next level in shocks. I also bought the matching rear shocks in "sport"
  Reply
#20
Tnfastbk
How do you like how your car rides with that setup? What are the positives and negatives would you say?
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