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front rotors
#1
getting ready to do my brake, I was told that I need some bearing for the rotors, can someone tell what bearing, is there a brake write up anywhere
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#2
are u converting from drum to disc??? or are they factory disc u want bearing for?? if factory then i'd think any auto supply should be able to get or have them. autozone,pepboys.
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#3
Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings
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#4
Copestang, if replacing your rotors, most of the reputable units I've dealt with come with the bearing cups already installed. If just having your original rotors resurfaced/trued then inspect the bearing cups for damage or wear. I'll list the bearing and cup numbers by Ford and industry number which any part house should be able to cross for you.
Inner Bearing: Ford# DOAZ-1201-A  Industry# LM68149
Inner Cup:        Ford# DOAZ-1202-A  Industry#LM68110
Outer Bearing  Ford# DOAZ-1216-A  Industry#LM12749
Outer Cup        Ford# DOAZ1217-B   Industry#LM12710

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
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#5
(01-14-2018, 08:55 AM)Copestang Wrote: Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings

 If you are just replacing your old discs for new, the old bearings will have numbers on them that can be matched or cross referenced by any auto parts store or bearing supply company. You will need to push out the old bearings. Take one of each with you.
When replacing the new bearings, you'll need to pack them with high temp wheel bearing grease, nothing else. When I do this, I take a handful of grease and physically force it into and between the bearings to make sure it is fully packed. Make sure there are no contaminates. You may be playing in grease, but the need to be clean is paramount. Once the inner bearings are in their races and all is cleaned on the spindle, put the disc on the spindle, place the outer bearing, washer and nut and tighten slowly until the nut is just snug, back it off and do it again to make sure the bearing is correctly seated and not just against extra grease. Once tight, back it off slightly until the disc turns freely, but with NO play in it. Put the cotter pin cap on and use a NEW cotter pin. I wrap one side around the cap and the other bent over the front. Others may do it differently, but a mechanic buddy taught me that way and that is what I do.
To be clear, I'm NOT a mechanic, but have done this several times on various cars without any issues. If I've missed something or described something incorrectly, I'm confident others will add to this. It's not a hard job, but there is a need to be clean. Use disc brake cleaner on the new rotors before and after installation as any grease on the disc surface will screw up your new pads in a hurry......... I take it you're putting on new pads? If you have any doubts or don't feel confident, have a mechanic do it. Your life may depend on it.
Hope that helps,
Geoff.

Well Steve just got you the numbers. He's a mine of info with stuff like that.
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#6
Ok thanks, I do brakes all the time this ever did bearings
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#7
(01-14-2018, 12:10 PM)Copestang Wrote: Ok thanks, I do brakes all the time this ever did bearings

 I see. From your first post, it looked like you are totally new at brake and disc replacement. My apologies if I misunderstood you. Having said that, secluff is right, all good quality discs come with the cup or race already installed, but no bearings.
Hope you get what you're looking for here,
Geoff.
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#8
(01-14-2018, 10:07 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(01-14-2018, 08:55 AM)Copestang Wrote: Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings

 If you are just replacing your old discs for new, the old bearings will have numbers on them that can be matched or cross referenced by any auto parts store or bearing supply company. You will need to push out the old bearings. Take one of each with you.
When replacing the new bearings, you'll need to pack them with high temp wheel bearing grease, nothing else. When I do this, I take a handful of grease and physically force it into and between the bearings to make sure it is fully packed. Make sure there are no contaminates. You may be playing in grease, but the need to be clean is paramount. Once the inner bearings are in their races and all is cleaned on the spindle, put the disc on the spindle, place the outer bearing, washer and nut and tighten slowly until the nut is just snug, back it off and do it again to make sure the bearing is correctly seated and not just against extra grease. Once tight, back it off slightly until the disc turns freely, but with NO play in it. Put the cotter pin cap on and use a NEW cotter pin. I wrap one side around the cap and the other bent over the front. Others may do it differently, but a mechanic buddy taught me that way and that is what I do.
To be clear, I'm NOT a mechanic, but have done this several times on various cars without any issues. If I've missed something or described something incorrectly, I'm confident others will add to this. It's not a hard job, but there is a need to be clean. Use disc brake cleaner on the new rotors before and after installation as any grease on the disc surface will screw up your new pads in a hurry......... I take it you're putting on new pads? If you have any doubts or don't feel confident, have a mechanic do it. Your life may depend on it.
Hope that helps,
Geoff.

Well Steve  just got you the numbers. He's a mine of info with stuff like that.

That is the correct method for castellated nuts. However, I believe that for the stamped steel lock nut/retainer it is to install it with the ends wrapped around the notches on the retainer, turned 90° from the way they are installed on castellated nuts.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#9
(01-14-2018, 06:10 PM)Don C Wrote:
(01-14-2018, 10:07 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(01-14-2018, 08:55 AM)Copestang Wrote: Factory disc, I was told the rotors do not come with bearings

 Put the cotter pin cap on and use a NEW cotter pin. I wrap one side around the cap and the other bent over the front. Others may do it differently, but a mechanic buddy taught me that way and that is what I do.

Geoff.

That is the correct method for castellated nuts. However, I believe that for the stamped steel lock nut/retainer it is to install it with the ends wrapped around the notches on the retainer, turned 90° from the way they are installed on castellated nuts.
 Rethinking that, Don, I believe you're right.
I guess as long as the damn thing doesn't fall out is the biggy!!
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#10
is there a front seal too?
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