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front disk brake service
#1
While putting the car away for the winter, one of the front disk calipers stuck. I opened the bleeder valve to release some pressure and the shoes moved enough to allow the wheel to rotate to get the car into its corner. Dont know if the piston was sticking or the caliper movement.

Since I havent done any brake work, I was looking for references on how to do basic brake maintenance and if it was something I can do myself or need to plan on taking to a garage in the spring.Thought I would start researching it anyway.

Any one know of any good tutorials or manuals ( although the Ford shop manual isnt very helpful), hopefully with pictures, that would show work like replacing calipers, brake shoes, caliper slide pins etc.. for our cars??

I've  viewed a lot of you-tube videos but dont know how much of the info shown actually applies to the 71-73.

Thanks for any info!
Steve
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#2
Given your description, it sounds like you have a bad hose, probably collapsed internally. If they are of indeterminate age, it would be wise to replace both.

I find routine brake work, regardless of the car, just too simplistic to bring myself to pay someone to do. I honestly haven't looked at the brake service procedures in the shop manual for a long time, but they are extremely simple. IMO, the biggest PITA is the stabilizer shield, only because it needs to be unbolted from the caliper bracket to do pads because the hose passes through it. I think if you sit down with the manual and the wheel off the car, it'll be fairly self explanatory. No better time than now to do services.


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#3
I agree with Hemi, brakes are relatively easy, especially on our cars, no special tools needed, just a torque wrench and a clamp to keep the pistons collapsed.

The money you'll save will buy you all new components.

I even do my own on our motorhome, just need heavier-duty tools, but pays for new rotors (not cheap) and pads. The shop wanted over $700 for labor.

I would also bleed the brakes and check for rust in the drained fluid, rust inside the brake lines, proportioning valve or master cylinder may also be blocking the lines. It's also possible the pad(s) were stuck to the rotor by rust.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
Thanks for the info! I do plan on replacing both brake hoses while i'm in there. A couple of questions though while i'm thinking about it..

  1. I understand in using the silicon lube for brake pads and caliper sliders but is actual antiseize used anywhere else?
  2. Regular brake hoses or more expensive stainless steel braided?
  3. Can hoses be replaced from underneath backside with the car on ramps or,easier from the front with wheel off and unload the suspension so hose isnt stretched?
  4. Worth buying a brake line wrench or use open end wrench?
  5. Necessary to torque things to spec? I usually use the german method good-n-tite ( short of sheared off or stripped ).
  6. What size bleeder is standard.. the 1/4" one?
  7. Worth replacing it with a speed bleeder or not really necessary?
  8. What is the safety wiring for some bolts i've seen mentioned?
I think thats it for now.. thanks for any help!

Steve
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#5
(10-12-2018, 12:31 PM)SteveO_71 Wrote: Thanks for the info! I do plan on replacing both brake hoses while i'm in there. A couple of questions though while i'm thinking about it..

  1. I understand in using the silicon lube for brake pads and caliper sliders but is actual antiseize used anywhere else? YES
  2. Regular brake hoses or more expensive stainless steel braided? STOCK SET UP? REGULAR STOCK REPLACEMENT IS FINE.
  3. Can hoses be replaced from underneath backside with the car on ramps or,easier from the front with wheel off and unload the suspension so hose isnt stretched? TAKE THE WHEELS OFF, YOUR DOING THE PADS ANYHOW.
  4. Worth buying a brake line wrench or use open end wrench? BRAKE LINE WRENCH = YES
  5. Necessary to torque things to spec? I usually use the german method good-n-tite ( short of sheared off or stripped ). YES!! TORQUE TO SPEC PLEASE!
  6. What size bleeder is standard.. the 1/4" one? I BELIEVE 1/4" IS CORRECT YES.
  7. Worth replacing it with a speed bleeder or not really necessary? NOT NECESSARY.
I think thats it for now.. thanks for any help!

Steve

See answers above. Also I have a hand vac pump for bleeding brakes. works great and one person can do it.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#6
I agree with Jason's responses. To expand a little further on the first one, though, I use a synthetic (not silicon) lubricant on the sliding parts. Silicon has a bad habit of getting all over everything and messing up future paint jobs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-24110

I use blue thread locker on the threaded part of the locator pins. While not an antiseize, it prevents corrosion and rust.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
Good call on the synthetic lubricant vs the silicon. I am going to have to grab a bottle of that. Have brake service coming on several vehicle here.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#8
I used the stainless braided lines on my 71. They were from Russell, the only company that made them at that time. Other companies make them now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-6.../year/1971

I also used Hawk pads when I redid my brakes two years ago. They are definitely more aggressive than OE, but not obnoxious.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MW...UTF8&psc=1


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#9
Whats with the safety wire on the bolts on the back?? I think replacement bolts do have holes for that wire.

Didnt they have lock-tite in the 70's?
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#10
I can get you a scanned copy of the Ford manual if you like.
Brakes are one of the easiest repair jobs on a car to do. There are not a lot of lube points on brakes, lol. You can purchase the packs of lube at every parts house out there.
I have been doing brake jobs since I was a boy, lol, helped dad and I am 70 and still do them.
Yes do get you a set of line wrenches.
When you jack up the front of the vehicle do not jack under the front cross member. Always jack under the front of the rocker box where the torque box is located.
You should also put a 2 X 4 block of wood under the upper control arm on top of the frame in the area show in this pic. in red rectangle. This stops the coil spring from pinching the rubber bushing on the upper shock mount and splitting it.



[Image: DSC00124.jpg]
The pistons inside the calipers are chrome plated and might have been replaced with a type of plastic piston. They usually clean up nice. You can rebuild yours unless there are rust pits inside the bore of the caliper. It is tricky getting the dust boots back on but you can do with no special tools. 
Like stated you should replace the hoses if original. You need to pump all the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder, lines and get fresh fluid in before installing your new or rebuilt calipers.
You can purchase a kit that gives you new clips and screws cheap for the disc brakes.
You should also have your calipers turned by someone with a brake lathe. I have my own so you just want to take as little as possible. There is a minimum thickness for the caliper and will be marked on it.
You should go ahead and check the rear brakes also the wheel cylinders are cheap and is also a pretty easy job. Getting the ebrake loose and back on is about the most difficult part.
If you ever do a brake job and do not unhook the hose do not let the caliper hang by the hose. Use a metal coat hanger and make you a hook to hang it by.
If you unhook the brake lines they have copper washers to seal off the surface for sure replace them.
If you put anti seize on your brake line threads do not get it inside the hose or line. It contains aluminum, copper or sometimes glass beads and is not good inside the brake system.
I use Black Charcoal Grill paint on my brake parts. 
[Image: DSC-2236.jpg]

[Image: CAM-0090.jpg]

[Image: CAM-0094.jpg]

The brakes on this car a 73 vert had been done 25 years before and not driven. I did take apart cleaned everything put new pins and clips on the calipers, rebuilt the calipers and painted and put back on. The master cylinder was bad due to rust so had to replace it. You can hone and get by or send off to have bronze sleeve added.
Just do one side at a time or take lots of reference pics.
Yes use torque wrench unless you do these every day then most do not.
One thing people do wrong is to put their wheels on and not use a torque wrench on them You should always torque your wheel lugs. Easy to warp a good disc if you do not.
Had a friend call the other day from Toyota dealer in a panic. They were doing free tire rotation and told her if she did not do a $200 brake job on the rear today it might cost $400 in a couple weeks. I asked if brakes were making any noise and she said no. So I told here to tell them to put the tires back on and leave. She went by parts house got new pads came over and I changed them in 30 min.. There was still 1/8" of pad left and no danger of ruining anything. The Toyota dealership had tightened the wheels way too tight in an attempt to warp her discs to make her come back. I could not break the lugs loose without jumping on the wrench. Aluminum wheels have a machined surface so more difficult to warp the disc. A steel wheel does not have a machined surface so easier to warp.
That was the first Toyota 4 runner I had ever done and 30 min. and $25.00 in parts.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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