• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Front coil springs
#1
So after fighting the coil springs with a local loan-a-tool spring compressor today, I opted to just order the one recommended in so many threads here that mounts to the perch where the shock bolts to.  The one that I had today has the hooks and no matter where I positioned them, they seemed to keep slipping during the compression and even though the front portion of the coil was off the perch, the rear portion did not come off of it much and I could not rotate the spring at all. After sitting in an open field though for so many years, I am sure it is just plain stuck due to rust and corrosion. 
I have new upper and lower control arms, all new stabilizer bar bushings, etc and will be rust free in this area real soon.

Tom
  Reply
#2
Good choice and solution.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#3
Yes good choice. I purchased one and it is great.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#4
Yes a coil spring is nothing to take lightly. If I recall right you need to compress the spring about 4" to be able to get it out. The compressor with just the hooks has been know to come loose when taking the compressor out and the spring launch into orbit. Could easily kill you.
You should also block the upper control arm from dropping all the way down to prevent damage to the strut rod bushings and the upper shock mount bushings. Should be info on making the tool or I just use wood blocks on top of frame rail under the control arm.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#5
runninpony 
I took my springs out by just taking the 2 nuts off of the upper control arms and work it outward carefully, that's easy. Hard part part is to put them back in, I used a spring compressor (loaner) that is the newer style that goes through the center of the spring, if that makes sense. + 1 on the wood blocks under the upper control arms, I use 1x4" pieces of oak.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
  Reply
#6
Thanks all for your input, my new spring compressor will be here tomorrow morning and I have all new upper and lower control arms, tie rods, sway bar bushings, and strut arm bushings to install. Going to soak the tie rod collars in some type of cleaning fluids as well as the strut rods and springs to clean them up real good before I do the install. Should have everything taken apart by tomorrow afternoon and reinstall on Sunday. Got all new Moog components so things should last awhile.
While I am at it, I may box the lower control arms, any thoughts on this?

Tom
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Front brakes not locking up tony-muscle 17 410 05-09-2019, 02:50 PM
Last Post: Don C
  Front power brakes factory or not Nige 2 154 05-04-2019, 08:04 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
tach 72 Conv Front End Replacement cv_72mustang 16 447 04-27-2019, 09:54 AM
Last Post: 73pony
  Front and Rear Disk Brake conversion question vintageman 2 186 04-21-2019, 07:07 AM
Last Post: vintageman
  1973 Mustang Hardtop New Leaf Springs mustang7173 10 452 04-06-2019, 04:32 PM
Last Post: mustang7173
  Leaf springs U-Bolt recommendations tony-muscle 25 830 03-05-2019, 03:27 PM
Last Post: EBSTANG
  front shock mounts toastintx 6 361 03-05-2019, 06:44 AM
Last Post: toastintx
  Need coil spring/ride height help mbrew2 25 1,439 01-28-2019, 08:56 AM
Last Post: Stanglover



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)