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Front Bushing damage when lifting car
#11
(09-04-2019, 08:51 PM)7173Vert Wrote: I still try to understand why this happens today... For thirty + years I jacked my Mustangs up, I stored them off the ground, wheels hanging every winter for year’s. Never had a problem. In the last 10 years or so, this issue has raised its ugly head. There is only one reason for this in my mind, inferior rubber components forming part of the shock absorber. They just do not hold up the same as the older manufactured parts did.
 I couldn't agree more. Back in 1982, I stored my 72 Mach 1 (which I wish I'd never sold) up on 18" high jack stands (hoping to keep rodents out) for 5 years. Of course I was not aware of this potential issue of shock bushing failure at that time. When I took the car out of storage, there was absolutely no problem with bushings. I did have a problem with a RAT that somehow got inside and had a family! NO holes anywhere in that car and no idea how it got in. Car stank for months!!! Oh! and DON"T use moth balls inside either, stripped the "chrome" off all the trim. Oh how we learn the hard way!!
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#12
(09-04-2019, 09:37 PM)Aus73Mach1 Wrote: Having just rebuilt the front suspension on my 73 Mach1, and being new to Mustangs, I came across this problem. I purchased a new set of KYB Gas-A-Just front shocks. Bolted one of these onto the spring saddle and found the piston rod was a couple of inches short of the top support. I've never seen this on a vehicle and wasn't keen to see suspension load transferred to a shock tower mount, so went back to the parts store and queried if these were actually Mustang shocks. On checking the catalogue there were two types for the 73 Mustang. The KYB EXCEL-G shocks were the same size as the ones I removed so I exchanged them for these. These went into the front with no problem, hanging from the 2 post hoist, lower control arm resting on the chassis and the shock bolted correctly into the top mount with no strain on any bushes. What have I missed here?
Is this related to heavier springs, competition suspension, etc?
 Did you change the front springs? 
Back in 2016 I believe it was, I changed my worn out front suspension. I bought a so called complete kit, top and bottom control arms, springs etc. etc. I too bought KYB Gas-A-Just shocks for my 71 Mach 1 and had the exact same problem, but we did get them in. However the front of the car sat 2" too high. OK, something is radically wrong here. What I found was the freakin springs were totally wrong for the 71-73 cars. Not only were they 2" to tall, they were the wrong gauge wire and too many coils, i.e. the wrong spring load. Turned out this "kit" was a Scott Drake POS and I regret buying it. Long story, but I eventually reinstalled my original, still good, springs. Once I did that, the KYB"s fitted perfectly and I have never had a bushing issue with them either after jacking up the car. I did however need to install a thick washer UNDER the steel top caps to compress the bushing enough so they did not move around in the shock caps. See pic#2 Pic #1 shows how far through the KYB shock sits with original springs, about 1" 
Geoff.


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I learn something new every day!
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#13
I know that everyone wants to blame the rubber. But if you go back and look in any Ford service manual from 1965 up they all tell you on the first page to block the control arms or you damage the bushings. Not us making it up Ford put it in the service manual for a  reason. 
A coil springs has thousands of lbs. of stored energy the bushing on the shock is only resisting the charge in the shock and the valving. 
As far as two post 4 post. If you lift on a 4 post you still have to jack the front so does the same thing. 
I will scan the Ford manual today and send on this link. It is part of the normal service on a Mustang, Maverick, Granada and others that use similar front suspension. 
I had just put brand new ones on and forgot to block and busted one the first time I lifted it and they were NOS originals not Chinese.
I saw someone also say they jacked under the front end. You should never jack a mustang up by the front cross member or under the engine. You can and will bend the chassis not designed to take the loads in that direction. You can jack under the lower control arm the little u brackets welded to the bottom are for jacking there. The torque box is other lift area and of course the front mount on the rear spring. 
It is all physics equal and opposite reaction. When new people would sometimes crack windshields lifting incorrectly. These are very weak chassis and with rust even weaker.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#14
(09-05-2019, 11:29 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: I know that everyone wants to blame the rubber. But if you go back and look in any Ford service manual from 1965 up they all tell you on the first page to block the control arms or you damage the bushings. Not us making it up Ford put it in the service manual for a  reason. 
A coil springs has thousands of lbs. of stored energy the bushing on the shock is only resisting the charge in the shock and the valving. 
As far as two post 4 post. If you lift on a 4 post you still have to jack the front so does the same thing. 
I will scan the Ford manual today and send on this link. It is part of the normal service on a Mustang, Maverick, Granada and others that use similar front suspension. 
I had just put brand new ones on and forgot to block and busted one the first time I lifted it and they were NOS originals not Chinese.
I saw someone also say they jacked under the front end. You should never jack a mustang up by the front cross member or under the engine. You can and will bend the chassis not designed to take the loads in that direction. You can jack under the lower control arm the little u brackets welded to the bottom are for jacking there. The torque box is other lift area and of course the front mount on the rear spring. 
It is all physics equal and opposite reaction. When new people would sometimes crack windshields lifting incorrectly. These are very weak chassis and with rust even weaker.

Is the rubber. Its changed over the year's on repo parts... Most are well aware of the Ford manual pages and blocking, etc. The point is..., we have never had to do this before, ever. Now we do. Thanks
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#15
Since this came up again, let'd do a little survey and get some data.

Have you had the upper front shock bushings split? If so, what shocks were you running?

I'll go first -

Yes, KYB Gas-a-justs


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#16
Gabriel shocks, 15+ years old, hasn't been left dangling for an extended length of time, but front end was off the ground for at least a day last year, without the control arms blocked or braced.

[Image: IMG-20190905-150606.jpg]



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#17
(09-05-2019, 02:33 PM)7173Vert Wrote:
(09-05-2019, 11:29 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: I know that everyone wants to blame the rubber. But if you go back and look in any Ford service manual from 1965 up they all tell you on the first page to block the control arms or you damage the bushings. Not us making it up Ford put it in the service manual for a  reason. 
A coil springs has thousands of lbs. of stored energy the bushing on the shock is only resisting the charge in the shock and the valving. 
As far as two post 4 post. If you lift on a 4 post you still have to jack the front so does the same thing. 
I will scan the Ford manual today and send on this link. It is part of the normal service on a Mustang, Maverick, Granada and others that use similar front suspension. 
I had just put brand new ones on and forgot to block and busted one the first time I lifted it and they were NOS originals not Chinese.
I saw someone also say they jacked under the front end. You should never jack a mustang up by the front cross member or under the engine. You can and will bend the chassis not designed to take the loads in that direction. You can jack under the lower control arm the little u brackets welded to the bottom are for jacking there. The torque box is other lift area and of course the front mount on the rear spring. 
It is all physics equal and opposite reaction. When new people would sometimes crack windshields lifting incorrectly. These are very weak chassis and with rust even weaker.

Is the rubber. Its changed over the year's on repo parts... Most are well aware of the Ford manual pages and blocking, etc. The point is..., we have never had to do this before, ever. Now we do. Thanks
I have owned since new and always an issue. There is also the fact that when the rubber flows around the center core it has a nit line. that is where it breaks not who  made it but how the material flows. I was automotive product, process tooling engineer I know the issues. 
Here is scan of one of the warnings from 1972 Ford manual.
You can make them out of aluminum and they will not split but ride like shit like the urethane do.


Attached Files
.pdf   IMG.pdf (Size: 759.75 KB / Downloads: 10)


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#18
runninpony 
Even the polyurethane bushings will get destroyed if you leave the tires dangling!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#19
KYB Gas-A-Just and yes.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#20
(09-05-2019, 11:29 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: I know that everyone wants to blame the rubber. But if you go back and look in any Ford service manual from 1965 up they all tell you on the first page to block the control arms or you damage the bushings. Not us making it up Ford put it in the service manual for a  reason. 
A coil springs has thousands of lbs. of stored energy the bushing on the shock is only resisting the charge in the shock and the valving. 
As far as two post 4 post. If you lift on a 4 post you still have to jack the front so does the same thing. 
I will scan the Ford manual today and send on this link. It is part of the normal service on a Mustang, Maverick, Granada and others that use similar front suspension. 
I had just put brand new ones on and forgot to block and busted one the first time I lifted it and they were NOS originals not Chinese.
I saw someone also say they jacked under the front end. You should never jack a mustang up by the front cross member or under the engine. You can and will bend the chassis not designed to take the loads in that direction. You can jack under the lower control arm the little u brackets welded to the bottom are for jacking there. The torque box is other lift area and of course the front mount on the rear spring. 
It is all physics equal and opposite reaction. When new people would sometimes crack windshields lifting incorrectly. These are very weak chassis and with rust even weaker.

I believe it is also safe to jack the front up using the crossmember under the transmission. Thats what i have used, anyway, and not noticed any body flex.
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