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Front brakes not locking up
#11
Are you going to try to convince your wife that it'll be good for her? Smile



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#12
(04-29-2019, 02:14 PM)Fabrice Wrote: That's why I do the expensive way.  The pumping 3-5 times fast ( fast as my wife can pump ) .

Are we still talking about bleeding brakes. Haha
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#13
(04-29-2019, 05:05 PM)Canted 393 Wrote:
(04-29-2019, 02:14 PM)Fabrice Wrote: That's why I do the expensive way.  The pumping 3-5 times fast ( fast as my wife can pump ) .

Are we still talking about bleeding brakes. Haha

Good one..... I am still laughing. rofl

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#14
I am currently replacing the combination valve with Wilwood's proportioning valve. While doing this I figured I missed something critical when I installed the Wilwood master Shootself . The Wilwood MC has the front brake system in the front which is the opposite as the OEM style. Since I didn't reroute the connections when I originally installed the Wilwood MC, that tells me that could have been part of the problem.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#15
That would do it!

Are you familiar with gravity bleeding?

If not it is my favorite method.

Here is a simple explanation

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolb...akes/28681

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#16
(05-09-2019, 10:12 AM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: That would do it!

Are you familiar with gravity bleeding?

If not it is my favorite method.

Here is a simple explanation

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolb...akes/28681

Yes, I tried it once. My plan is to rebleed the MC, then gravity bleed through the new valve and distribution block before I connect the lines that go to each wheel. Then bleed each corner.
A concern I have with gravity bleeding is that I don't know how effective is it to push the air bubbles through the brake line loops near the MC. That's why I will first bleed the system at the engine bay before I connect the lines to each wheel.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#17
Are we still talking about bleeding brakes. Haha

I just see that one now! Lol Big Grin

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#18
Another consideration, wider radial tires and better rubber compounds make it less likely the brakes will lock up, but still stop much quicker.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#19
Do you think these pads are glazed or do they look normal? I used the flash and the surface looks a bit shinny. Any thoughts?

[Image: 20190529-225007.jpg]

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#20
did you fallow the welwood brake pad bedding  procedure  you might try to re bed the pads  get them hotter
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