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front brake pads
I've been reading a few posts related to types of brake pads used on the front discs. Most were a few years old so assuming pad technology or people opinions change over the years, thought I would ask the question again.

Right now I have composite type pads on that came with the caliper/disk package I bought. There is some squeak in them, usually when they are warmed up and wheel dust.

I realize that the squeak could maybe be cured by adding brake lube to the backs of the pads but since I was taking them off anyway, I was wondering if just changing to a ceramic ( not semi metallic pad) would be a better solution. They seem to have less dust, quietness and less rotor wear.

Maybe I need to put more miles on the organic pads since right now they are still new?

Since the car only gets moderate normal driving are ceramics overkill and only really needed for "hard" driving? Thought I read something about them being effective more when really warmed up.

Which ceramics are popular? Benidx, EBC, Hawk, Raybestos seem to be available.

I've only installed the brake pads once but I had the caliper and mounting bracket attached together and on a bench. Dont know what this is like trying to do it on the car and getting the pins into the front pads. I'd like to avoid taking caliper and bracket off and having to bleed brake lines again since right now there are no leaks.

Can pads be changed with caliper still attached to brake hose but free from mounting bracket or do I have to take everything to a bench again?

Thanks for any tips or suggestions!
Here's a good article on the 3 basic types of pads. I use metallics on our motorhome, due to he temperatures generated in stopping a heavy vehicle. I use ceramic pads in my F150, for longer life, and I don't haul heavy loads that often. When I put new pads on my Mustang I'll use metallics. If, and when I replace them on my wife's Fiat 500X I'll probably use ceramic.

Whatever you decide to use, rotor condition is critical. They must be carefully inspected and determined if there is enough width left to have them turned, no cracks or burned areas, The minimum width will be cast into the edge of the rotor. Reusing rotors require them to be turned for two reasons, one, the new pads have a flat surface so the pads make full contact and aren't riding on the peaks of grooved rotors, two, the rotor surface condition has to be correct for the new pads to break in.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
I'm using Hawk HPS pads on the stock front disc setup of my 71. Definitely more aggressive than the off the shelf replacements, no noise and so far no fade. They feel like a regular pad until they warm up, then you can feel the difference.


Yes you can install new pads with the calipers still attached. Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber hose can kink it and break inside lining. Take a metal coat hanger and make you a hook to hang it from the coil spring. You will need a clamp or big pair of pliers to compress the piston in the caliper. Look at the fluid level in your master cylinder and if full you might need to take a turkey baster and suck some out so when you compress the caliper you do not overflow the fluid. 
You can get the small packets of the anti squeak stuff to go on the backs of the pads but use only on the fixed side not the piston side. Most new pads today come with an anti squeak pad on the metal. You use the lube on the threaded pins and the ends of the pads where they ride on the caliper frame.
You need to clean everything with wire brush so that pads sit flat on the surface. 
If you did not replace the hardware on your calipers that gives you the new boots for the pins, pins and clips for the pads, dust shields and screws you should do that also. The last kits I got the spring clips were junk they broke trying to put them on.
I also assume the calipers are pretty new sounds like not much use. 
Does your rotors rust when the car sits? If they do that can cause noise also. The cast iron rusts very quickly for sure. 
You should also get the test strips at your parts store and check the fluid in your master cylinder for moisture content. You do need to change the fluid in the system. Even on new car you do to also keep the anti lock brakes working correctly.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Guys, thanks for the articles and suggestions!

David, I used lube on the ends of the pads but you mentioned using the lube on only the fixed side of the pads?

Why not put some on the back of the pad in contact with the piston? 

If your brake pads don't come with the membrane that fits between the piston and back of the pad use this:

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
Thanks! I'll try the CRC next time brakes are off.
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