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From the top: ‘73 Q code convertible
#11
That "fix" belongs in 1sostatic's thread
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-post...nuity-here

He calls it Petrolhead Ingenuity, I call it redneck mechanics.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#12
But where is the Duct or Duck tape? It will never run without it.
Cracked me up when naked and afraid contestant took Duct tape, lol.
I was on the way to Tech School back in 1966 and had two guys that rode with me. About a mile from school the clip that held the throttle linkage on the carburetor broke and no gas pedal. We had nothing to tape it or wire it so one of them sat on the front fender with the hood open and worked the throttle while I drove and shifted gears, lol. Boy did we get some looks that morning, lol.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#13
Engine harness probably should be replaced - this is the one NPD shows for 351C w/ auto trans

https://www.npdlink.com/product/wire-loo...?year=1973

Agree with TommyK on the carb, epoxy or JB Weld to fix a weeping passage. Pretty common fix.

Most times a new fuel filter will come with a short section of hose and a couple spring clamps.

The wire looped around the A/C lines might be the compressor clutch power wire.


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#14
Tell me more about the wiring harness. NPD doesn't have much info about application. Is this the feed for the instrumentation, too? Oil pressure and temp seem to be fine, but as usual, ammeter barely moves -- either way. I'd agree with you the cut black wire might be the feed for the compressor, but the other end of the wire just disappears though the firewall, unprotected/unclad/unsupported.

Back to the carb: there is a leak right in that area, and it appears to be in/around the patch. What options for the carb does that leave me? Is it beyond a rebuild? And then the second question if the answer is "yes, beyond repair", replace with same or time to update?

Thx,
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#15
A carb shop should be able to fix that leak, or just replace the top cover, There's a plug there for the machining operation to drill the fuel passage.

The engine harness includes the gauge feeds (oil pressure/water temp), coil (+) feed, electric coil (+) feed, anti-dieseling solenoid (+) feed and A/C clutch (+) feed. The connection to the main engine bay harness is behind the driver's side valve cover, two flat plugs, typically 3 or 4 positions each. From the picture they post, it looks correct for a '73 to me.

Maybe someone hot-wired the clutch? Might be worth a peek to see where it goes under the dash. The factory clutch wiring was  clutch ->plug-> extension wire->plug->A/C (+)feed on engine harness.

Oh, attached 73 vacuum diagrams. The calibration code is the sticker on the front of the passenger side valve cover. It's visible in one of the pics from the eBay listing, clean it carefully if you can't read it.

[Image: calibrationcode.jpg]


Attached Files
.pdf   1973_ServiceManual_Vol6_EngineEmissions_Mustang.pdf (Size: 6.58 MB / Downloads: 6)


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#16
To my knowledge nobody makes a complete harness for these cars. They make the alternator part but I do not think then entire harness back to the firewall. If they do I would be interested.
The carb would have to have a new top section and the 73 is unique to 73. One good thing would be that most of the trashed ones are due to the float bowls being corroded and no good but the top half might be good with the area broken on yours.
The kit for these carbs is pretty easy to install and set floats. There are videos online also. Be sure you get the correct one I got one from NAPA. I had ordered one from Mike's carb. and he sent the wrong one was not the spread bore. When I told him it was wrong he said I didn't give him enough information. I told him 1973 Q code 351 4-V but he said there were two carbs use but there was not. He sent kit like for some of the big Fords that had a 4300 but not the big spread in the back.
If you do change you might want to go with fuel injection for better mileage and performance.
If you live in California what are the inspection rules there? Do you have to keep the EGR valve? That is the plate under the carb and the valve is on the back.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#17
(06-30-2019, 09:47 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: To my knowledge nobody makes a complete harness for these cars. They make the alternator part but I do not think then entire harness back to the firewall. If they do I would be interested.
The carb would have to have a new top section and the 73 is unique to 73. One good thing would be that most of the trashed ones are due to the float bowls being corroded and no good but the top half might be good with the area broken on yours.
The kit for these carbs is pretty easy to install and set floats. There are videos online also. Be sure you get the correct one I got one from NAPA. I had ordered one from Mike's carb. and he sent the wrong one was not the spread bore. When I told him it was wrong he said I didn't give him enough information. I told him 1973 Q code 351 4-V but he said there were two carbs use but there was not. He sent kit like for some of the big Fords that had a 4300 but not the big spread in the back.
If you do change you might want to go with fuel injection for better mileage and performance.
If you live in California what are the inspection rules there? Do you have to keep the EGR valve? That is the plate under the carb and the valve is on the back.

Thanks for the rebuild tips!  And the auto parts store closest to me?  NAPA - bonus.  But yeah... will have to dive into fuel injection.  Besides what you mentioned:  reliability.

"Yes" to California, but vehicles past a certain age and/or odometer are exempt from smog requirements.  The year for that rule was when manufacturers finally starting using 6 place odometers ('86 maybe?).  Before of course couldn't tell if "32,565" was true or "132,565" or...
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#18
Good carb info - thanks.  Under consideration for the "while you're at it..." category, I might turn to fuel injection.  I'm remembering the knuckles lost changing spark plugs on my '71.

1,000 thanks for the vacuum diagram!  Old, dirty and faded, it's definitely hard to find colors or markings on these.  At least a few mysteries will be solved today.

And yeah, that might-be-compressor-clutch wire:  will chase down under the dash, for sure.  Half hoping it does lead to one of the two mystery switches -- I'll never know what they were for, but at least problem half solved.
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#19
Finally did something:  started on replacing the radiator.  Still waiting on the replacement shroud, so here's the first half:  remove.

I must have read the "tilt the shroud back and lift the radiator straight up" 20 times before I finally... tilted ONLY the shroud back.  There are two clips at the bottom, so hold down on the titled shroud and lift the radiator.  Helps to have help.

I went with copper/brass, metal side tanks, 3-row from ACP.  In black.  (lol)

But before the shroud arrives, I plan to pull the a/c compressor (eventually to be replaced in an R134a upgrade) and the power steering pump.  Having much anxiety about that pump!  By the time I acquire all the equipment to do it myself, and enough beer, I might be better just replacing.

[Image: IMG-6171.jpg]

[Image: IMG-6172.jpg]
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#20
While you are there, check the fan blades for cracks and/or a stamped part #. Ford had a recall in the 70s over exploding flex fans. IMO, I'd just replace it for a thermal clutch fan - less noise and frees up some HP.

The clutch you need is the Hayden 2710. The fan blade is Derale 18" 17118.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793512&jsn=2293

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clut...B004XONYK2


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