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Finally home, and starting soon
Finally got the ol girl home from my dads. Gonna start on the tear down soon as I get a complete overview of the condition and route I am going. 
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Looks like pretty good shape, but guessing it was driven hard , is that a tach or shift gage in the center console ?

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
No it was only raced 2 years on the 8th mile. My dad bought it in the later 80's . Bought all new ford sheetmetal from ford and bought the last ram air hood available from ford. It's solid top to bottom other than the minor fender bender it was in early 90's. Interior was mostly gone through also.

He sold it to his buddy when he decided to build a pro car to drag race instead of cutting this one up. Then bought it back 18 years later after sitting in his buddy's garage since he sold it to him. Saturday I bought it from my dad and here she is.

Plans are for a full restored build.
[+] 1 user Likes Mjordan's post
Congrats on your new too you ride.

- Mike
Been awhile since any updates, not much has gotten done but a lot of figuring out exactly what to do. Shouldn’t be much longer before it’s on the rotisserie. 
Overall it’s in descent shape requiring some floorpan work, two pinholes in trunk around fuel filler, and a few dings and panel alignment. Cowl area so far looks to be in good shape. 

Finally decided on paint and striping colors, wheels and suspension are down to a couple options. Brakes will be 2004 cobras using mustang Steve brackets front and rear. Engine is a dilemma right now as to swapping heads or not. [Image: C8-C46-D89-44-C9-428-F-A17-C-8169-A4-A7643-C.jpg]

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With that much rust in the rear floors you for sure have a roof rail leak. Very common even when new. Also if front is rusty you probably have cowl leak all it takes is a pin hole. Nothing to cause the interior floor to rust unless there is a leak. 
Might be too late now but the engine and drive train should be your last task. With it built it just sits there with some of the valve springs compressed and some not. You should rotate it some to not kill some of the springs or even back off all the rockers would be the best bet. 
You need to do the floor repair with the body supported on the assembly line locators in the frame rails to keep the chassis in alignment. You also said was in fender bender. Usually a good idea to get frame shop to check out the chassis before you do too much. Might need a little tug to get back to dimension. The Chassis dimensions can be found here. 
Best to get started with knowing the chassis is right than to fight later when trying to make things fit.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Yes, before it goes on a rotisserie it’s going to the frame machine first to be checked over. Buddy that’s doin the body and paint work runs a body shop that mainly works on high end cars like Jag, land rovers- Porsche etc. Builds quality Restos on the side.
Next out will be the heater box to see exactly what’s there.
The engine and trans are from a previous project decided to use for this one. It’s rotated every few weeks and in a heated area. Looking to change it up a bit fo4 this build so it will probably be coming apart soon.
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