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Finally got my heads done!!
I took my heads in originally on August 5th, to the engine shop right behind my welding shop. Was told 2 week turnaround. So I drop by 2 weeks later and was told they hadn't had a chance to do any head work and that they would finish them up the following week. On my way out I see their head guy working on a brand new set of sb Chevy heads! So I go back over a week later and they had the pedestals machined down for studs and were waiting to send them out to be pressure tested. Soooo, went over the following week, and the heads were still sitting on their bench, to which they replied, we will for sure have them to pressure test next Monday and we will finish them up. Went over Monday and the lead guy says I am FOR SURE taking them to pressure test TODAY, I told him don't bother I will just take them elsewhere to get done, he tells me they are done, just need to be pressure tested. Funny, I don't remember seeing the seats or valves ground? Anyway he did get them to pressure test, then assembled them on Wednesday and gave them back to me. I took 2 valves out and sure enough, the seats and valves were not touched!! And no bronze valve guides!! He only charged me $300 for the work so I just figured that paid for the pedestal machine work. So I took them to a MORE reputable head company 30 miles away, WOW only 5 days and I get a brand new set of heads back. Bronze guides, 3 angle valve job, and he reset the spring installed height, the way the other guys had them installed would have caused big trouble I guess!! Can't anything ever be easy? Anyway here's a couple pics!!

Oh, and a big shout out for JBojo, for supplying the valves! They are great!!

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
It's a wounder how some business keep the doors open.

- Mike
They look great, stud mount is the way to go for sure. Way better adjustability.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            

Ohhh Yeahhh???? Here's one for you... I got in touch with the only radiator shop in my area of Florida to have the original radiator to my Q-Code Mach cleaned out and tested.. The owner agreed to do it for $45.. I brought it to him on a Monday and 3 weeks later got the call that it was done.. Picked it up and got a bill for $75.. His dip tank was still cold... All he did was pressurize the radiator and solder a pin hole leak.. Never boiled it out nor did he paint it.. I still don't know if the core is plugged or not.. He said it was fine.. I'm not so sure after 42 years that the tubes are clear... It will be a while before I install the radiator, but it won't matter.. No education is without cost..
looks great.

who is jbojo and do you have a link to their site?

how much were the valves?

are they us or chinese made?

Jbojo is another member on this sight. These are Milodon stainless valves, they are undercut in the chambers for better flow. He had an extra set he was willing to sell me, so I am just giving him props!!!
Omie01;243106 Wrote:Jbojo is another member on this sight. These are Milodon stainless valves, they are undercut in the chambers for better flow. He had an extra set he was willing to sell me, so I am just giving him props!!!

ok thanks . . i was hoping you found a secret source for them, lol.
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