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Feedback on 1971 M-code I am looking at
#1
If you have been following my posts I have been looking for a Mach 1. I test drove one today. This one is in excellent shape, better than what I was looking for. However, it is in my neck of the woods, which is a plus. I did not find any rust issues, runs great, all seems to work, A/C fine, paint and interior in pristine shape. Owner had it for 12 years and drove it only to shows. It was kept covered on a lift inside a heated garage for all those years. Paint and restoration is from 12-years ago.
The 5-digits of the VIN are 1T05M. Even though it is an M-code, it has a functional RAM-air option. M-codes supposedly didn't come with RAM-air so I don't know if it was added. All the vacuum lines are there.
It has a C6 trans.
Please look at the pictures and let me know. Can you give me a ball-park range of how much I should offer for it?
Thank you.


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#2
That sure looks like a very impressive car. For my tastes it is a little over-restored.
If you like the non original extras - then you are willing to pay for them.
All mods I see are not too far out. I'd be surprised if it could be bought for less than $24 but I am assuming it is solid and doesn't need much.
Sure would want to see the invoice and/or Marti report.
Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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#3
Boss1Ray;194543 Wrote:If you like the non original extras - then you are willing to pay for them.
All mods I see are not too far out.

Ray, which mods do you see? I know if has Koni shocks but I can't tell what else.
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#4
The M codes could indeed come with factory ram air. It wasn't until 72 that the ram air could only come on the 2v engines. Hard to say from pictures on the price. What is he asking?
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#5
$20k, but I am not there yet.
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#6
You have to decide if your looking for an all original car or one just nicely done and mods aren't a problem if done correctly. If you want an all original car then you get into matching numbers etc. This is probably not the original type car with the frame welds done.

Things I see as non original are mud flaps, traction bars hooked or welded on rear end, cross member welded to frame near H pipe and some type of other frame mods welded in.

Here is the book on this car...

1971 Ford Mustang Mach_1 351-240hp (8cyl-2V) AT
#5 #4 #3 #2 #1
2dr Fastback 2125 6925 15175 21650 34150


Add:
351-285hp (8cyl-4V) 10%
429-370hp (8cyl-4V) 55%
4spd manual trans 10%
Air conditioning 10%
Gauge package 5%
Magnum 500 wheels 5%
Interior decor grp 5%
Center console 3%
Deduct:
302-210hp (8cyl-2V) -10%
3spd manual transmission -10%
Manual steering -5%
Drum brakes -5%
Plain hood -5%

Condition Guidelines
#1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been extensively detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: cost no object concours restorations should be considered 1+ condition.

#2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle.

#3 Good: Presentable inside and out with some signs of wear. Not detailed but very clean. Body should be straight and solid with no apparent rust and absolutely no rust-through anywhere. Shiny, attractive paint but may have evidence of minor fading or checking or other imperfections. Runs and drives well. May need some minor mechanical or cosmetic work but is fully usable and enjoyable as is.

#4 Fair: runs and drives OK but needs work throughout the vehicle. Body shows signs of wear or previous restoration work. Any rust should be minimal and not in any structural areas. Cosmetics, body, and mechanics all need work to some degree.

#5 Poor: In need of complete restoration, but is complete and not a rust bucket beyond repair. May or may not run. Not roadworthy.

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
1973 Q Code Mach 1 Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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#7
$20k is on the high side for it; that's almost "perfection" territory.

These are the issues that jump out at me. Some are personal preference, some aren't:
  • Stripe kit on a car that never had stripes (note lower brightwork molding)
  • Wheel arch chrome (not on Machs)
  • Rear spoiler isn't original, or they wouldn't have drilled mounting holes that sit way too far back
  • These cars do have bad fit from factory, but why is the left side of the hood adjusted so low?
  • Left fender sticks out too far at the bottom (throwing the rest of it's fit off); probably an easy adjustment, but I don't expect to do this for $20k
  • Boss 351 spoiler in front
  • Is the trans spitting fluid onto the H-pipe area, or is that just rust?
  • Sticking a Coupe/Grandé-spec trunk mat in a Mach is the evil by which bad trunk floor repairs are hidden.
  • 351C with 2-core radiator for a 302 car
  • Chromed shock tower tops + black supports (odd, as the hinges are slop grey)
  • New A/C lines in blue - that's fine, but if they put R134A in it, that original compressor will never be able to blow as cold as a new aluminum unit painted black to "fit in." Depends how much you want originality vs. usability here.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#8
20k on that car is not unreasonable just from the no rust repair issues you'd have to deal with on a car less complete..It looks really nice well cared for..So right off the get go you'd have a car you could get in drive enjoy..Rust..body work..paint are the largest expense in any restoration..Unless you have to have a concourse car I'd say go for it ..It's all minor stuff you could peck away at over time if you want to put it back to factory..Any where in the 15-20 range is more than fair based on your description pictures..I'd start at 15 go from there..

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#9
Thanks for all the input. Yes, I don't care for a car that is perfect since I will be making non-OEM mods of my own. After reading the book value description I think the car is a good+. I said excellent in comparison to what you find up here, which they always have rust.

cudak888;194574 Wrote:[*]351C with 2-core radiator for a 302 car
Kurt, can you please expand on this one a little more. Does that radiator work for a 351 or will it be too small?

cudak888;194574 Wrote:[*]New A/C lines in blue - that's fine, but if they put R134A in it, that original compressor will never be able to blow as cold as a new aluminum unit painted black to "fit in." Depends how much you want originality vs. usability here.
He did mentioned that the A/C was recently fixed/service, but I may have to ask what refrigerant they used.

A question. Do those cross-beams under the car by the tail pipe cross-over original? or why will they be added?
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#10
tony-muscle;194580 Wrote:
cudak888;194574 Wrote:[*]351C with 2-core radiator for a 302 car
Kurt, can you please expand on this one a little more. Does that radiator work for a 351 or will it be too small?

A question. Do those cross-beams under the car by the tail pipe cross-over original? or why will they be added?

Those cross beams are not stock, they would have been added to help chassis stiffness. Not an uncommon modification. Looks like a home grown set-up since there really isn't anything out there off the shelf for our cars.

I'm curious about Kurt's comment as well.

All in all, a real looker of a car! I would take a peak under that trunk mat though. Very odd that they would cover the little hold points for the trap door with the mat. Otherwise it looks really clean!

2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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