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Fastback Rear Window Install
#1
Does anyone know where to buy the closed cell foam tape that is used in a rear window install?

I have tried "Hemikiller" with no success.

This seems to be a necessary part of the install.  Any thoughts/alternate acceptable professional method?

Thanks
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#2
(02-16-2018, 05:49 PM)andy72 Wrote: Does anyone know where to buy the closed cell foam tape that is used in a rear sports roof window install?

I have tried "Hemikiller" with no success.

This seems to be a necessary part of the install.  Any thoughts/alternate acceptable professional method?

Thanks
  Reply
#3
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1971...-foam-seal

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-...3-fastback



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
Make sure to only go around the top and 2 sides with it, if you go across the bottom channel you won't get your chrome on. Ask me how I know!! Good luck!!!
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#5
Thanks for the link Don C. I found the product on Mcmaster. I have had the writeup that 72Hcode did on the window install for quite some time now. In response to Omie01, the write up states to use the foam tape on the bottom? Thanks for the first hand info.

I am surprised at the size of the tape. 1/4 inch thick, 3/4 inch wide? Step #6 in 72Hcode's writeup mentions 1/4" foam tape. I thought this was the width because he states that the foam tape "sits half on the headliner and half on the window ledge". I also didn't expect 1/4 thick. It must compress well. 3/4 inch is almost wider than my entire ledge, and is wider in the upper corners. Don, does all that tape just compress into the window gasket?

Any thoughts? Thanks
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#6
Just my feelings about the foam.
The foam was just an easier way for the factory to install the glass. Just like gluing in the windshield. Not necessarily better but less cost and easier on the assembly line.
I myself prefer to hammer and dolly the flange flat that the rubber fits on and sand smooth before paint. Then when installing the window add some 3-M windshield sealant to the channel the glass sits in put the glass in the rubber and then around the channel between metal and rubber after installed before trim.
It only takes enough to fill any gaps not fill the whole channel. It only takes a tiny amount to seal it. The foam can move around when pulling glass in and still leak. Filling the whole channel full of sealer just makes it impossible to install the trim and remove later. The correct sealer never dries and does not harden so it moves with the twist of the body. That is another reason for the foam these are flexible flyers, lol.
You should never see that much water after a restore.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#7
I removed my fastback 73 rear glass for headliner replacement and intend to re-install it shortly once recovered from shoulder surgery. I think I would rather use the sealant method than the tape and seeing if there are any additional pointers or precautions to doing it this way.

Have a new rubber gasket and assuming there is only one type of 3M glass sealant, do I fit the rubber to the glass, inject continuous 1/8" (?) bead in the outer gasket lip with the window laying flat? Turn it over and do the inside also, or is just the outside sufficient?

Once the sealer is installed between the gasket and glass, then use small rope technique as usually used on older cars to fit the window with gasket assembly into the opening and after that, inject a similar continuous bead (1/8" diameter again?) between the gasket and the metal flange on the outside only. Then install exterior trim and no wait time necessary since sealer never fully hardens anyway?

That about it?  Any cleanup hints in case sealer gets on glass or body during the process?  I may be over-thinking this, but trying to make sure the steps are all perfectly clear in my mind and I can jump right into it once my arm is functional again. My pain-killer med's are not conducive to focus and concentration.

Thanks, Mike
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#8
Believe it or not I was just reading about putting the rear glass in last night. I had one of the Ford manuals and just happened to go to that area.
It does not take an 1/8" bead of sealer anywhere. It is sort of like putting RTV on a gasket a little bit is all it takes. All you are doing is filling in the irregular ares of the flange. Just put a tiny bit in the channel the glass sits in and install the rubber.
I will scan the Ford manual an post it up. The foam they show has to be in one particular area only. I do not see a 1" wide in the Ford illustration.
First thing is to put masking tape all around the outside of the opening and can come around the corner of the painted area. Also put on the headliner inside the car.
Me I would put a very small bead 1/16" around the whole flange that the rubber wraps around and spread it out with gloved finger to get into the ups and downs. The Ford illustration shows how to do the string to install. It will take at least two people to install so you can ease the bottom edge of the rubber on the flange along the bottom. I like to take some 1/4" - 3/8" wooden dowels and grind a wedge on the end so if I need to probe the rubber there is not chance of chipping the glass. Getting the corners in is usually the difficult part. I do also use a woodruff key puller to hook the corners in but be careful not to chip glass. One of you get inside the car to pull the cord and the other can massage the rubber to make it go in easier. You might need to warm up with heat gun or hair dryer if it is cold and not pliable.
I will go look up the 3-M sealer number. It is a non hardening windshield sealer. Your auto supply should be able to lead you there.
Once the glass is in place you go around and lift up the rubber from the outside and see how the sealant looks. Do not just squirt sealer on the rubber or channel. You need to have someone lift the rubber with again a woodruff key puller works great and you follow and put a small amount between the rubber and the metal flange. Again all you need is enough to fill the ups and downs the rubber will conform over time.
As far as clean up use WD-40 or some type of Prep Solv that will not harm your paint.
Look for another reply later with the 3-M # and scan of the Ford manual.
Remember they dropped those in at the factory in under 2 minutes, lol.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
I located a copy of the 3-M Glass Products Catalog, attached. They are down to only one sealer used with the rubber gaskets. It is on page 7 of the catalog, Automotive Bedding & Glazing compound #08509
Here are the scans of the Ford manual 1972 Volume IV Body. I scanned the entire section so more than just Mustang.


Attached Files
.pdf   IMG_0006.pdf (Size: 354.31 KB / Downloads: 3)
.pdf   IMG_0005.pdf (Size: 631.96 KB / Downloads: 3)
.pdf   IMG_0004.pdf (Size: 678.39 KB / Downloads: 1)
.pdf   IMG_0003.pdf (Size: 744.75 KB / Downloads: 2)
.pdf   IMG_0002.pdf (Size: 669.63 KB / Downloads: 1)
.pdf   IMG_0001.pdf (Size: 939.54 KB / Downloads: 1)
.pdf   IMG.pdf (Size: 709.74 KB / Downloads: 1)
.pdf   3-M_Glass_Products_Catalog.pdf (Size: 369.45 KB / Downloads: 7)


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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