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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project
Nice Job of making one good looking reservoir out of two not so good looking.

PS: on my end I may do something similar to fix my old working reservoir with a piece of the one we bought.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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@TONY-muscle
[Nice Job of making one good looking reservoir out of two not so good looking.]
Thx Tony, you know like no other how they were looking! Plastic is certainly a pain to work with but you can bring them back to a durable and acceptable finish.
oh and btw, I have not finished to play with it yet but I have managed to unlock the pump out of the casing... sooo I may restore the broken one and keep it in case the good one breaks on me at some point.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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Another dog weather weekend passed, so been again been busy with details...

[Image: hinge-central-console.jpg]

As the rubbery console armrest could not open and close smoothly due to corrosion. I've restored the hinge. Removing the axle without damaging it wasn't that easy as it was really stuck, no matter the penetrating oil I've spent on it. But eventually at the end of the weekend got it back as new and it now pivots as expected.


[Image: ashtray-drawer.jpg]

The next patient was the ashtray drawer. While the rail/frame was taking a bath to remove the rust that was popping up here and there, handled the drawer cover first. made of zamak and with uneven cracked paint, I went for paint stripper as I didn't want to add anymore damage to the grain surface by sanding it. Couple of hours later. The cover regained some youth. I'll prime/paint it once I know what I want for my interior..


[Image: ashtray-drawer-2.jpg]

In paralel with the drawer, the rail had to be restored too. While the previous acid bath had removed all the rust, it is covered in some kind of coating and my paint stripper did not do much to it, so had to use elbow oil to help the process. Once I got it to an acceptable result, masked the plastic rails (resisted to remove them as I do not have such little rivets in house and there was no sign of corrosion around them). Then, as it was pouring outside, sprayed with door open alternated with heat gun between layers. The original hardware, at least the flat head screws that I cannot find over here, were meanwhile also restored and by the end of the day, ended up with a drawer unit good as new. With the ashtray repop that I have, that should look pretty ok! Smile


[Image: door-panel-straight.jpg]

This past Sunday, just before rain came back, freed the panel from the press it stayed into for past 2 weeks and was happy to see that the bottom that was more than wavy regained its nice straight original line.
A quick test on the door showed a nice overal fit. Still not decided on what I'll do later on. I know at least I only need to fix the vinyl crack at the elbow recess and could reuse the panel as is, may I'd go for the original route.


[Image: console-repair.jpg]

I've made some stinky smoke too! Smile Fixed the main crack and 2 others that I've discovered while busy on the inside. As the plastic is weak by design there, also added a reinforcing layer in the inside to make sure it won't crack again. Then did a bit of inspiration, using american wallnut wood and natural leather to see how I could marry original and noble materials (horrible lighting on the pict). Just the touch of them is so much better that this cheapo plastic.

As I need to focus on the 73 first to free the garage for the 71, I've placed back the half restored console parts into the car and will return to them once I know what I'll do with the interior... Need do some designs/material choices some time this year for this.

So yeah, not a very thrilling weekend, but glad these details are now done.

To be continued.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
[+] 1 user Likes Fabrice's post
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Well done, as always Fabrice.

Those screws can be hard to find, even when you know the right name for them: truss head screws. I found one local hardware store that has them. I don't have a clue what they would translate to.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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@Don C. [even when you know the right name for them: truss head screws.]
We all know the truss is out there. Question is indeed where!!! Big Grin

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
I haven't posted as I used to lately for different reasons.
First we had some storm coming our way and needed prep a bit the house, then my T-bird got wind damage (drove in high winds and front lights covers were ripped off it)
so gave it some love (and replaced the damaged parts with my 91 parts) for the rest I've been busy on the 73, as I need first to get it done to be able to continue on the 71 inside.

But as this weekend was a dog weather AGAIN, I could not work on the 73, so I went back to details.
There was some offer on E-bay for a non working clock (which I don't have), that came with the clock cover that is damaged and full of holes on the 71, the harness also missing on the 71 and the top console cover, which is was cut in 1/2 in my 73.
So bought it and got it last week as it would fix multiple problems/missing parts.


[Image: clock.jpg]

I've started of course looking at the clock first, as it has a GT stamp, I knew right away that I was looking at a hopeless case. But me being me, I needed try anyway! Smile
So put everything apart and found out the expected: the coils got hot and eventually shorted everything. The plastic holding them, the feed and more gears supposed to be inline
was broken in 3 pieces. melted it all in one piece, realigned everything, soldered the broken wires, de-rusted a bit the gears, oiled them and as I expected: busted. No circuit, too much corrosion. As I planned a quartz alternative, I had wasted enuff time, so moved on to what really mattered to me: the parts that will be mixed with another mechanism (which I'm currently seeking)


[Image: clock-casing.jpg]

De-rusted, removed the ugly paint that was on the plastics, plated the cover, cleaned up the dial, plated the hardware...
and ended up with good as new parts.


[Image: front-clock.jpg]

After I gave it some love the clock cover ended up pretty ok. But because 2 of the plastic rods behind were broken and glued back badly at some point,
I have find some plastic rods and melt them on the back so I can mark this one done.


[Image: bubbles.jpg]

The top console, that was of course not lighted on E-bay same way, showed the classic corrosion lifting the alumnium deposit... and had also 2 cracks, that i've repaired and worked away on the grain side with a thin layer of bondo applied with fingers.
Someone also sprayed some cheapo rubbery primer at some point and needed to remove all that before I could be busy trying to make it look good again...


[Image: top-console.jpg]

The bubbly part went off easy, but it took me a while to get rid of the entire region to obtain a seamless blend with the rest.
Removing the bubble also answered my question about how I would be able restore the grain. Turns out the plastic has and keeps the grain. hence why it took a while to gently scratch the aluminium film away without damaging the plastic. As 50% was still sticking nicely, it was a patience game to get it done.
Removing the rubbery primer was also a source of fun (not). The thickness that was sprayed was insane.

Eventually, at the end of the day, I was happy to have all looking I wanted looking pretty good. As said above, next will be to merged a quartz 12v mechanism in this clock, may be custom 3d print some gears to keep the knob functional for the arrows... No rush as its all details. I'll post on this when and if I come to it.

Anyway, I will probably not post much (or nothing) on this thread in coming weeks, (may be couple of months) as I want the 73 back on the road and have the garage free for the 71. Unless of course if this dog weather keeps ruining my plans.

To be continued...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
[+] 1 user Likes Fabrice's post
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Looking good.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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Nice work!

- Mike
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As always your patience yields great results. You removed the aluminum deposit on the console insert the same as I do when I rework them. Razor knife around the base of the shown chrome areas and peel it off.
If you need a new lid for the console Daniel Carpenter does make them and they fit and look just like the original. They only come in black so will have to paint. I have used several of them. 
I have never found a great way to fix the foam that gets worn on top on the lid.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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