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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project
#21
Nice and rare car ! Looking forward to your updates !
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#22
thx guys Smile

k, so weekend was mostly focusing on the 73, but in between electrics/welding/sanding for it, I've continued on the 429.

This time, another set of rusty things: the pulleys and the damper.
Both pulleys were chromed at some point, poorly done. As usual chrome doesn't work very well on concave shapes and of course Mrs Rust saw her chance once more.
The pulleys and the damper were very dirty. The damper had some thick greasy/dirt of 40 years on it, and lots of rust...

[Image: rusty_puleys.jpg]

After detergent bath, brushing, sanding, small acid treatment and a touch of paint for the inner details, the damper is now as new.
Some cracks in the rubber on one side, slightly off metal level (where not in sandwich) and not deep.
So will kit these just for the sake of saying its closed and will also paint timing marks, as they are not really easy to be seen in real (somehow on pict they are)

[Image: damper_clean.jpg]

(if you guys have some idea on how to make a nice readable and thin mark, please shoot! For now thinking, i'm prolly going mask/airbrush some bright color)

[Image: puleys_before.jpg]

After a degreasing session the ladies pulleys went into a rust dissolver bath.

[Image: puleys_during.jpg]

Not happy about the results yet, tho, much better than they were, I decided let them a day or two in there.
With bits of luck, the idea is to paint them all, but keep bits of the chrome in front, where its in good state...

More rusty things coming back to life next time Smile

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#23
Very nice Fabrice. Keep up the good work! I'm rooting for you Smile 

Kevin.

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#24
thx Kevin!

It was a long weekend and weather was wonderful, so been busy...
Unlike the awesome Tony-muscle's project, i'm not yet so far that I can show some bling bling,
instead more, rust and dirt in this post!

[Image: pulleys_rust_gone.jpg]
After i've let the pulleys in the rust dissolver for a few days, I got them much better, but not really usable as chromed items.
If you compare with the previous post, its clear, this rust thingy will now be part of most old parts restorations.
Especially because once its dry, it leave a layer that closes all pores of the metal and is also an ideal surface for a primer.

[Image: pulley_primed.jpg]
so started prime them with a rich in zinc primer coating that I was also using for the 73.
For the fun of it, I've left some of the chrome where it was perfect, only a bit in front. will see if the time spend on masking was worth it...

[Image: damper_markings.jpg]
I came back on the markings of the damper too. As I want something permanent, I sprayed rough lines going -10 to 30 btdc
I need reduce them on their width and find some small letters stickers, so I can at least add at least a zero. to be continued.

[Image: fender.jpg]
Weather was really great, water sanding, priming, water sanding and water sanding and priming.... awesome. more sanding
needed do/fix that fender for ages and either weather was never good or never had the energy to start with it. Now its almost done.
just need paint the inside, and prime one last thin primer layer and re-water sand ultra fine.

On monday, my wife decided to hang the wash in garden... so long for spraying. No prob, I was out of paint anyway.

So far never had the time to look really in details under the hood, as I was mostly busy on the 73 and handling the parts that were stored outside the car..

[Image: perso.jpg]
Before opening it, as I've mentioned before but never showed, here's the "tres 1980" perso on the hood, a remake of one of Boris Vallejo famous paintings.
Some art critics may hate me later, but sorry, it will have to go!

So next is start clean up / sort the engine bay and its remaining parts...
in short really inspect the damage and repeat WTF a thousand times Smile

[Image: sortingcrapout.jpg]
Forgot to take a pict once done, but basically the crap dustbin was full end of the day, with the most crappy electrics ever!
@randy, beware! some picts might be disturbing to you!

[Image: ps_alternator.jpg]
The pump and alternator, both will be restored and I'll post on these when i'll handle them.

[Image: wtf.jpg]
wtf! wtf! what this???

[Image: wtf2.jpg]
like a "de la Tourette" patient. Smile wtf wtf wtf whole day. I have made many more picts I save for ref later on, I'll spare you the sadness.
but these are self explanatory.

At some point the engine bay started look better, and while I had to find out I miss a few more parts Sad
There were also good news, very good ones.

[Image: goodnews_body.jpg]
Like the engine bay in general, very little damage or corrosion. In frame cavities, its dirty but not corroded.

[Image: goodnews_cowlvent.jpg]
and even the very dirty cowl vent has almost no rust.

I was expecting lots of welding in engine bay, aside a bit of rust on driver apron at the top, and a few holes made for the creative electrics. no welding.
wheel sides, same, its all well preserved.
The fenders, both sides however, will need serious massages... rust and quite a few dents.
Ah well, just did the 73, so not scared to do these. One at a time!
The hood will need lots of attention at the front, and will need poor something inside to remove/stop the rust and of course protect.

More next time!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#25
<------Having a heart attack seeing those wiring pictures...You need to give me tickets for a Cruise across the Pond so I can come and fix that wiring for you.  Afterwards (or during!) we can partake of the bounty of Europe (e.g. wine, cheese, food, women, etc.)

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
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#26
Randy you were warned!! Smile

Its weekend again, its super nice weather, time for a PS pump restoration! yay!
I wasn't planning do the PS pump anytime soon, but as just bought a small quantity of paint for the pulleys,
as its not cheap these days and there is always lots of loss for small items, I thought I'd better spray them all together.

[Image: rusty_pump.jpg]
and so I was back on another ugly rusty part...

[Image: removebraket_nut.jpg]
The pump is original, and after sitting 20 years, turns out it pumps nicely, so started by turning the pulley by hand
and got most the oil out (thats what I thought at the time...)
Behind the pump there are two large nuts, and it was obvious, they were not planning to help me.
So I've used my vice as a wrench and got them loose. The first part of the bracket, some kind of protection for a connection comes loose too.

[Image: pulleyremoval.jpg]
Unlike other pulleys simply bolted on, for the PS pulley, you have to extract it.
I have this kit for a while, and not a week ago, I was saying in a reply, I wasn't using it very often.
This is the first time in few years. So if you are in the USA and can borrow one, just do it.
Over here, I've in the past tried to find shops having this tool... none had one, and chances they would borrow were zero.
So ordered this kit. It allows me to remove few other types, and I hope it will work on the alternator that i need restore too. We'll see.

[Image: too_short.jpg]
Like butter, the pulley came smoothly as I was cranking the pressure.
On this kit, because its having two grooves on both side, at some point, the stud is too short and I needed come back first, add a spacer, and continue.

[Image: pulleyremoved.jpg]
Once the spacer is added, just one or two rotations extra on the tool and the pulley is finally separated from the pump.

[Image: casingremoval.jpg]
Then its time to get the pump casing out, as it needs to be handled as well...
So the second big nut need go out, and on mine, there is still the original plate. Some say its because its never been serviced
I'd say I don't know, may be it was serviced at some point and someone put it back.

[Image: leak1.jpg]
So I loose the 4 bolts on the front and start pull/move to get it out. A suction noise and wooosh!
[many bad words even Trump would not dare to say]
K, so now I know that when you think its empty, you actually are wrong. its not.
After cleaning, I saw it was like 250 cl. (a quart of a quart??? )
Now I got a water proof shiny floor Smile

[Image: drip.jpg]
While at it, i'm going to service it, as I bought a kit for the 73, but turned out, the pump was simply having an air bubble to prime.

[Image: pumpsealkit.jpg]
I thought, while at it, i'm gonna use it on this pump.
Because I no longer needed it for the 73, I've carefully bagged it and stored it in a box.
Of course, its been few weeks since then and totally forgot which one Smile One hour past, and finally found it, of course in the last possible candidate box.
man, aging is horrible, I just past 50 and these little things tells me fun is about to begin Smile

[Image: degreasing.jpg]
Then it was time to remove first all the sticky greasy dirt, and gave each part a nice bath of detergent.
The more I clean up, the more rust I discover...

[Image: rustremoved.jpg]
Used to handle rust these days, I've bathed in dissolver, brushed and brushed and at some point
I thought: good enough. So washed these in clear water and let them dry in the hot sun. I saw on other parts which received the same treatment
that the dissolver leaves a layer that closes the metal pores, ideal for primer. The same yellowish layer was there as well.
Tho for a reason I ignore, the bolts get a flash rust layer within no time. Metal diff? So needed to brush them dry and thinner them once more.
I know many would buy new bolts. I would too if sizes were metrics. Unfortunately good bolts are heavy and the USA far away... As these and most bolts on these car are of a pretty good quality. Its worth the effort and not really much work.

[Image: primer_black.jpg]
After a final cleanup with thinner. It was primer time.
As all drys super fast with this weather, so I've apply the black coat to the body, stick and bolts as well.

[Image: paint1.jpg]
Then it was time for the grey "natural" metallic coat that I've picked, and i could apply it onto the 2 other pulleys
and the chain cover.

[Image: paint2.jpg]
Pulley looks fine, that "hard to find" tube too.

[Image: paint3.jpg]
and so does all the parts.
Tomorrow they'll receive a clear coat, together with the fan that is waiting for a thin layer for a while.
If i would not have lost time looking for that #$%^ kit, the clear coat would be hardening right now...

Anyway, while all these parts were drying, I've continued on the pump internals.
Did many picts at each steps so it might help someone do the same (and help me remember the order for reassembly)

for now, I call it a day!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#27
Still with an unusually nice weather over here, continued where I've left.
So first thing on the agenda was to apply the clear coat

[Image: gun.jpg]
In case you spray yourself, for this job I've used this gun(.8 mm nozzle), its way more economical than a "regular" gun (1.4mm). Its more directive and almost as precise as an airbrush. Makes it ideal for this kind of job.


[Image: paint5.jpg]
Clear coat layer added, i've let dry, and reapplied 2 hours later on the other side of some parts.


[Image: paint6.jpg]
(forward in time to yesterday eve)
Not fully hard, as it will take a few days to reach that state, but hard enough to the touch, it was time to remove the maskings as waiting longer would potentially lead to unsharp masking lines or even damage. The bits of chrome left over to the pulleys turned out nice and they marry well with the grey.

At this point, i can now mark the waterpump/crankshaft puleys, the fan and the chaincover done. After the pump reassembly, i will probably need to retouch the front pulley at center, and the bolts.
Comparing the parts state before and now, its clear a bit of love makes a difference!


[Image: oil_casing.jpg]
I've forgot to mention, that for the pump pulley and the casing you must mask the axle holes. because the puley needs be pushed back in, a layer of paint, would make the job very hard, removing the paint there would be very hard. As for the casing, you don't want any paint in it, as its not just a casing for the looks, its a tank full of oil and you don't want paint chemicals in the oil or even worth, chunks of dry paint entering your steering components.


Meanwhile all this spraying I was busy with the pump...
First if you do the same: TAKE PICTURES! While its pretty straight forward job, this pump parts design allows few combinations for reassembly. all wrong except the right one!
Also you will need a vice even if all could be done "free hand", its really a must to have the pump secured while you work.


[Image: pump_1.jpg]
To open it, you need remove the 4 main bolts. As they are in oil all the time, they come out pretty easy. at this point. Take care you open gently, not because it would break, but because lots of components are spring loaded.

[Image: pump_2.jpg]
For the manifold side, as the parts are sealed with a o-ring, you need to tap gently, a tiny firm at the inlet.
and then: woosh! Again!
I was thinking I've learned that empty isn't empty. well, once more when its empty: its not! Smile
If the pump o-ring is ok, there is still another glass of oil trapped in there above!

[Image: pump_3_inspect.jpg]
Then once you have both sides apart, its time to inspect for unusual wear. On mine, that was pumping ok, all was looking fine.
Notice here on pict top right the springs (taken against light to see the small springs). You really do not want to put this apart, because if its damaged/having wear. You will have to buy a new pump.
if ok, its fine as is. it just needs to be cleaned and inspected.

[Image: pump_6_paint_gasket.jpg]
While busy cleaning the metal parts, also cleaned and painted the front of the pump and changed the axle seal.

[Image: pump_4_clean.jpg]
Each and every part needs to be clean to be inspected, so you can also judge the wear by the black metal residues on the cloth you are using.
Also, on mine the old gasket left residues, so as you don't want to have any solid residues in there, i've used a small bits of 800 water sand paper, oiled it and
removed the gasket rests. Once done, cleaned all the surface before do anything else.

[Image: pump_5_reassembly.jpg]
Here the a blank reassembly, still dirty, but wanted take picts before do it for real in one go, with fresh oil.

[Image: pump_7_gaskets_orings.jpg]
On this pict, the gasket, seals i've replaced. In the kit I bought, there are still 3 rings/gaskets left over. Made for a broad range of similar pumps, i suppose they ware for other applications.
As I haven't see any other to be changed parts. I know that on some casings, you also have some kind of a filter at the rear of the casing. So i guess these are made for this kind of diffs.
bath the new o-rings in oil before install them and later on, the surface of the casing where they are supposed to be in contact with.

[Image: pump_8.jpg]
On pict left, notice the extra hole. make sure you align before put the bolts back on. On the right the gasket. Can't say i'm impressed by the fit for the secondary passages.
After inspection of the old one, I saw its the exact same shape. So I guess it got to be ok, and resisted to modify/cut the gasket to fit better.

[Image: pump_9_backtogether.jpg]
Finally its time to do the reassembly, this time, all clean. only o-rings and surface oiled. Using two cans of paint I had laying around, its just a matter of putting the parts on top of each other.
On the manifold, the two springs being loose, you need to gently lowdown so they do not fall. if the assembly is nicely vertical, all goes smooth. on the last bits, you need press a bit more as
you now have a new o-ring. Once popped in, set back the bolts. As you don't want to have leaks, make sure you tight first by hand, and then one turn at a time. jump to opposite bolt
so that both surfaces are always parallel. I couldn't find infos on the exact torque, but remembered the force i've used to loose them.

All with all, its pretty easy repair and considering the kit is really cheap vs new pump, 12 dollars I think.
From what I saw, the o-rings are the ones making the diff and I think that's what my 73 pump needs. The old ones are very hard to the touch and probably are loosing their sealing properties. If yours is not working properly, may your pump be damaged inside, this kit is useless and you will need a new pump anyway, but being in oil all the time, chances are high this dirty job is worth the effort. Glad I did it.
And as a bonus, you have in the end a shiny garage floor Smile Next time I do this, I'll surely take this in account!

Been busy on other stuffs this weekend, but to keep a bit of logic in this thread, I'll finish this pump chapter first once back together.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#28
OMG that picture on the hood is horrific!

The work you are doing looks great mate, awesome progress and a waterproof floor for free on top of a free 429. What a life ;-)

Cheers,
Vincent.
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#29
(05-28-2018, 07:35 AM)Vinnie Wrote: OMG that picture on the hood is horrific!

The work you are doing looks great mate, awesome progress and a waterproof floor for free on top of a free 429. What a life ;-)

Cheers,
Vincent.

hahaha, Winnie, its not horrific, its art!!! [Image: lollerz.gif]

In the 80's in France, at least in Paris, it was very 'in' to have an airbrush piece done on your bike tank, car etc...
Technically, this one is very well executed and was really a wow factor when showed. It must have cost quite a bit too. 
I recall see some would even take picts which was in the pre-digital age a pretty good compliment.

Sadly, as I share the same art taste as you do, I'm gonna have to disappoint the art critics.

Its not all bad tho, there is an excellent point associated to it. Because the artist used quite a lot of clear coat to protect it, half the hood is rust free.
I wish he did the entire hood! Smile

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#30
The PS pump internal puzzle and paint done, time to put all back together.

[Image: pump_align.jpg]
Just like the internals, the casing and pump design are not very well thought.
There are a few combinations possible to put them back together. Only one is good.
One easy thing to remember is that the hole on the pump casing is ment to suck the oil, and
must be located at the lowest point, so it gets oil at all times even if low.
So added a tape and marked it. Once together, they align.

[Image: pump_protect.jpg]
During reassembly, as this design doesn't really help to keep things clean/undamaged
I've cut a few masks of board to prevent the socket to damage the paint while rotating and taped the nuts as well.

[Image: pump_damage.jpg]
The kit I have is great for the removal but kinda very basic to put it back.
Just like the few other times I used it, I knew it would damaged the front, because the provided bearing supposed to be in contact with the surface isn't of the right size for this pump. The friction as expected ruined the paint. Sad

I also saw I made a small mistake on the casing. I've masked the top end of the filling tube, expecting the stick to be like the 73... instead this one, doesn't have this "hat" thingy. grrr!

[Image: oldone.jpg]
Just a reminder to compare and see me once more that its not because something looks like trash that it is trash.

[Image: pump_ready.jpg]
Once back together, the pump looks like a new one, if not better.

[Image: pump_done.jpg]
tadaaaa !!

Aside the 2 small paint fixes that i'll do sometimes this week, then i'll fill it with fresh oil and store it.
I can now mark another part that nobody cares about as done! Yay!

Meanwhile been busy on other stuffs and received some new goodies as well.

[Image: valance.jpg]
[Image: goodies.jpg]


to be continued...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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