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Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project
(02-18-2019, 10:59 AM)Don C Wrote: Very nice, Fabrice. You've certainly accomplished a lot in the last few weekends, especially considering the weather.

Thx Don, not even near of what I was planning to do, but as long as I do at least a thing per weekend, the project goes on!
These things take awful lot of time for sure. When i've picked this new year eve resolution. (always try something new)
Never thought I would like it as I do now. Despite the very limited space that I have, I know I'm gonna have now a permanent "plating" corner.


(02-18-2019, 10:52 AM)Vinnie Wrote: That spring looks great!
thx Vinnie. We'll do yours together!

(02-18-2019, 11:47 AM)tony-muscle Wrote: Wow, man, that is a lot of great work. Keep it going! You have to be very proud of yourself being able to accomplish all that on your own.
I did almost nothing! Just looked at bubbles, mother nature did the rest! Smile
Its magic, really love it!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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Fabrice the only advice for seperating the pipes would be grind the visible weld off at the joint and then heat the pipe that attaches to the header. That should expand the metal and allow it to loosen enough to remove.

Steve
1971 Grandé
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(02-18-2019, 02:54 PM)Pegleg Wrote: Fabrice the only advice for seperating the pipes would be grind the visible weld off at the joint and then heat the pipe that attaches to the header. That should expand the metal and allow it to loosen enough to remove.

There is no weld, it's a very tight tube in a tube connection with a 30 years film of corrosion in between. On a workbench a bit heat, small beatings and a little force would get them loose for sure, but as they are now, with the lack of practical space to get to them/work around the connection is another story.
Oh well, I'll try the torch/heat massage first and move to plan B if that would fail...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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Great work as always. Keep it up

73 Coupe 302/c4 Project
65 Fastback Conversion Eleanor Project

[Image: sigpic53231_7.jpg]

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thx @JRANGER

Tho, I did not do much this weekend, but as long as some stuff gets done its allright I guess.

[Image: bolts.jpg]
Did few bolts and nuts, like the second tower cap hardware among others.

[Image: bolts-bushings.jpg]
Here the set with the raw bushings, turned to fit on both the koni's axle/cups and the end cap.
As the choice is either a too small for my taste and generic polyurethane bushings from Summit or original rubber that will not last long. Just like for the 73, made my own so they fit both the cup bellow on the shaft, the cap inside and the top+cup.

[Image: towercap.jpg]
The cap is damaged at the top, been used too long with crushed rubber bushings before new were placed and shocks replaced.
Forward in time, I just discovered these are avail as repops and affordable. Looked for these last week online and couldn't find any. I've wrongly supposed they were not avail anymore... pfff, considering they are just $20, I could have used my time on something else.
Anyway, this side was really rusty, and spent a week in bath. Then what was left of the old chrome stripped mechanically, and got electro cleaned, and finally zinc plated. They will receive a good layer of paint + sanding work as soon as the temp permits it. For now, rust is gone.

[Image: bushingstestfit.jpg]
That I'll replace them later on or not. I've fined tuned the bushings for a good fit and the axle will never ever touch a side again. Polished a bit the top ones, and will finish them to shiny when i'll install them for good.

[Image: lightsbezel.jpg]
Gave some love to the lights bezel, made of Zamak/pot metal, they were extremely pitted, and it took a while to get their surface up to a "good enough for paint" quality. This are quite bizare parts, only hold by a single screw, considering their weight, I bet some must have quite a play over time. I'll see once I'll do the grille if there's something I can do to improve this.

[Image: wipersarms.jpg]
Similar work for the wiper arms. They spend days in the de-rust sauce. Very corroded. As I can't accept to spray onto pitted surfaces and hope the primer will hide the misery. I had to massage both quite a bit to get them to a good enough surface. A primer + sanding should bring them to good as new.

All these joined the "to be painted" queue...

To be continued.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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runninpony 
Keep it up and soon you'll be done!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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Sometimes its the small stuff that counts. I spent all Saturday working on my kitchen remodel so i know i feel the same way. Small victories, i might of spent an hour Sunday to get the 73 mustang before i returned to the house work

73 Coupe 302/c4 Project
65 Fastback Conversion Eleanor Project

[Image: sigpic53231_7.jpg]

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Another cold weekend,
Got a short visit from @Vinnie on his way back from picking his dipped hood this morning.
Result is pretty nice. I'm sure he'll post something soon about it.

Then it was back to the usual rituals for these cold and wet days: derust, clean, plate, polish, repeat.
Aside another series of old bolts and nuts brought back to life did a few other items.
The choice of parts mostly guided by the metal I'm currently using: zinc.

[Image: flywheelplate.jpg]
Like this plate for the flywheel. The classic rusty part usually derusted and oiled before being reused. No polishing here, just a nice protective layer. Believe it or not I've bought new bolts for this one! Smile Should be all looking clean once assembled.

[Image: lightsbezel-fill.jpg]
Also started an experiment of "reconstructive chirurgy". I'm curious to see how good a really pitted piece of zamac could be restored when not broken by adding thickness. On the pict, the lightbezel cleaned up last weekend was a good candidate for this: really pitted but not dented. It went twice a full 360 session, polished in between. On second pass, aside the deepest pits of corrosion, the resulting surface is almost back to its 1971 glory. I'm gonna redo this till its looking good just to see what's needed to "refill". I''ll prolly try to add after that a layer of copper followed by nickel to see what kind of result I could get.
Plan is still to paint these, but who know's..

[Image: hoodpinlocks.jpg]
Also started work on the hood locks brackets, here the small lock/latches. I need polish them, but they have their original zinc layer back, twice actually, and should be bling bling by tomorrow.

[Image: cookin.jpg]
The other 2 brackets, got a paint removal, clean up and they are in bath for the night. Not much rust on these, only in the inside, but had to massage them a bit to have all the sides and fitting straight again. At leat one of them should look good tomorrow.
As a side note, I saw a few posts asking for the "grey" paint these brackets should have. From what I saw looks like these parts were originally zinc plated, not painted. Aside the passivation using blue/white chromate that I will skip for environmental/health reasons, that's how these should be treated vs painted.

@NotAT5, @JRANGER
I'm in no rush, some details simply demand lots of time, but at times I wish I could spend days non stop in a spacy garage and make big steps! Smile

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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With the old paint removed, the brackets cooked all night. Time to zinc plate them...

[Image: prep-plate.jpg]
They were rust free but covered in oxyde when out of the acid bath, so each on its time went over a cleaning session first in hot water, final removal of tiny paint left overs. Because of their weird shape from a conductivity point of view, I had to move them every 6 or 10 minutes till I got a thick layer everywhere. The last pict shows how dull the result is right after plating compared to the clean raw steel of the other one.

[Image: passivation.jpg]
The next step is the "grandpa's" passivation (as done before Ford developped the process in the 1920's for mass production purposes) that I use over the toxic white/blue chromate type 3. The first step is to dry air the part, from a grey it turns to white. It's not just drying. The white colour is an oxidation layer that occurs as a reaction to cold air and is said to isolate and create a natural hard layer. Then to smooth the zinc crystals, a gentle brushing with wool with almost zero pressure is enough to bring up the shine of the soft metal. A cloth with nothing on it would do this just as fine, but would take longer.
Using chromate, it would have been time to dip it into the solution, rince it and let it dry for 24 hours. Instead, the parts were heated and waxed. The zinc deposit is so thick, it's not to protect the metal from rusting, it's just to isolate the top layer from the air. Note that the white/blue chromate, very thin, will not give you a much better protection, its just quicker and there is no labour involved. The most durable passivation of zinc is done by using the yellow chromate (as you see on carbs) but that's a very dangerous poison for all living things. I pass.

[Image: resultbrackets.jpg]
And after all this cleaning/polish, a bit of salt, a few volts and vinegar you end up with a 46 years old hardware that looks as if made yesterday!
May be not perfect, but looks much better than on last pict of my prev post. Smile

To be continued...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
runninpony 
Let me ask you something Fabrice, how do recycle all these chemical baths after they're spent? I don't know what the laws are in Holland but I would think here in the U.S. there are some strict laws on disposal/recycle. Just wondering, you've done a great job so far.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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