• 2 Vote(s) - 5 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Fabrice's 429CJ 71 project
#11
bolts bolts and bolts and bolts...

As all parts were collected in a hurry, nothing labelled or even per familly, got like a bucket of old bolts...
while most are for the engine, some are for the c6, and some... well I duno.

[Image: botsandboltsandbolts.jpg]

Hours of sorting later I got I think all the engine bolts. excepted one important.
Its one to secure/adjust the valves. So if one of you has one left over of the same kind, please PM me!
Here's the baby I need.
[Image: missingbolt.jpg]

As valves retainers, studs, springs etc... were not found yet, needed go deeper into my small garage attic.
and after throwing loads of old stuffs away, opening boxes and boxes. Finally found them back along with the original intake.
[Image: garagehunt.jpg]

unlike the rest of engine parts, I did store them, and all are ok, in oil, no parts missing.
So next week, the heads will go to an ultra sound clean up at my fav machine shop + valves guides/seats check.
And I should be able to reassemble them after that.

Mostly busy on the 73 this weekend, I did also these for the 71.

Pre-cleaned and check for cracks what's Ford calls the cylinder front cover, aka engine front cover or timing chain cover.
(thx to Secluff, I know now its having 3 names)
[Image: chaincover.jpg]
I need buy some chemical paint removers and try one of these rust desolvers to finish it.
For now, this one will wait.

Then the fly wheel. full of light rust, it returned to a shiny state after a massage.
Found small damages on 4 teeth, few bits of metal gone, but plenty surface to engage the started motor without problems.
[Image: flywheel.jpg]

[Image: flywheel_clean.jpg]
Next weekend if I have the rust desolver in house, i'll remove more of the rust chemically and
protect it with a thin paint layer.
Question here: What kind of grease should I use for the teeth?

to be continued...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#12
WOW I thought I got great deals a free 429 mustang, lol.
On grease for the teeth on the flex plate you do not need any. It would simply sling off when the engine is running. The engine tends to stop in a few places all the time so you will see uneven wear on the teeth from the starter engaging the teeth, that is normal. If none broken you are ok.
I can probably come up with the Power Window Bezel you are missing if you do not find but the clips that hold it are not easy to find for sure.
If you put the engine together and are going to let it sit go out and turn crankshaft to different position once a week so the same valve springs are not compressed all the time. If it is going to sit for a while put some lube on the valve seats also to prevent any rust there.
Really the engine should be the last thing you build for your car so it does not sit there.
When you do go to start the engine crank it over enough to build oil pressure before hooking up ignition or use a drill motor and long shaft to prime the oil system.
Do not let the engine idle when you first get it running. Do a quick timing set and keep the RPM in the recommended range of the cam manufacturer. That is probably what wore the other cam out. Slow idle beats the cam and lifters to death. Racing parts are not made to run on the street and have a short life span if not used at proper idle RPM.
Keep the pictures coming as you put the puzzle back together. I am sure members are willing to send you any pictures you need for reference. I could have gotten valve covers at a recent show but I did not even price them since I do not have any 429 cars. I do have a PI engine I am going to clean up and sell since I will never use it. I like the 351 C much better.
Cheers,
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#13
David, sorta funny how some parts are junk you couldn't give away one day and later are priced like gold. I believe Fabrice needs a set of the original CJ style valve covers.
My 429 buddies were busy installing all the fancy aftermarket valve covers on their engines and would give me the OE aluminum covers since that was what I was running on my 429. Most had stress cracks around the bolt holes from over tightening so I just piled them up and let them collect dust for years. When it got to the point you just about had to walk sideways to get through the garage, those were some of the causalities of the clean up. Now days those would have been repaired!
The 71-72 Police Interceptor also ran the CJ valve covers, so if you see a set you might let Fabrice know. (Do you know what year your PI engine is)?  
On a different subject, were you able to find a vacuum advance for Anderslober and mwilson7 at the closed NAPA warehouse? He should be able to cross the Ford and Motorcraft numbers I sent to you even if he could not find them by application.

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
  Reply
#14
@David
yeah free comes at a price Smile
The prob is not to restore the parts or the time it takes, I don't mind dirty hands (and strangely, I even enjoy restoring old rusty metal back to shiny state). The annoying is that the dude who "worked" on it made a mess (understatement). Its easy to take things out, less easy to put it back when you are not that person, not knowing exactly what went out, in which order and where the stuff missing is. That's why sorting all bolts and make sense of what they are and where they go is tedious.
As about the engine should not be done first. Well, I saw your new rotisserie in your spacy surgery room. Take a look at my garage, seek the diffs with yours and you will quickly understand why all the engine parts currently taking space needs be back together. I do not plan set valves springs under stress, but they will be assembled and valves cover on/tightened by hand. All engine dripped in a generous bath of oil. The fairly far day from now, that I will actually try to fire it up, I will for sure, oil bath it again first, and pre lub all and ensure the oil pump is loaded. And use breaking oil with zddp (and bit every next oil changes added each time). Its probably why one of previous Crower cam lobe went south. For now, it's about having space, book some progresses and start think of how i'm gonna do with the rest of the car.

If you have one damaged Power Window Bezel, I would solder/weld/make whatever missing clips. Its not even on the prio's list but would be nice to have it already. Its also the kind of small work that can be squeezed in the planning during the week. So PM me at will Smile

@Secluff or @david, Do you have a 'valve stud bolt' around you could miss?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#15
Nice work! Locating parts for the 429CJ cars is no easy (or cheap) task.  No many of these cars were made to start with, way less of them now.  Keep plugging away, you're doing great!

Mach_One
1971 J-Code Owner
  Reply
#16
@mach_One
[Keep plugging away] thx, I will try Wink

So today, was the oil pan next on the todo..

[Image: rusty_oilpan.jpg]

Let's be honest, while I want to keep as much as the original parts, in this case, the oil pan, that has been modified to hold up a few more oil,
when I've looked at it, I was like "this thing looks so bad, so much rust, dented and how the hell i'm gonna get that rust in the inside away??"
So I went dream shopping on Summit site and other sources...

Today, I thought: Nah, that's too easy, let's get to it!

[Image: rusty_oilpan_2.jpg]
Here after the outside was gun burned to get the many layers of paint added over the years.
Dollied out most dents out, metal brushed etc etc but still lots of rust to go.. and the inside is still untouched/rusty.

As I knew the inside would be a massive pain,You don't want rust in an engine. So I went looking for some options.
99% sure I would regret my money spent. But as I need every bits of help to get that rust out, I invested once more in one of these magical rust killer solution, called Rustico.
After grease/dirt and oil were removed, I started apply this chemical.

REALLY IMPRESSED!
For the first time after trying tons of rust killers, most changing rust but not removing it, I've finally found one that does work,
and not like a bit, it really works!
[Image: nomore_rusty_oilpan.jpg]

I mean, I'm totally impressed, did inside and outside, rust is gone! The picts speak for themselves! Its not cleaned or anything yet.
[Image: nomore_rusty_oilpan2.jpg]

As the happy owner of a reborn oil pan, tomorrow I'm gonna first weld that small crack on the shield, and start cleaning/painting.

Meanwhile, I've put some other stuffs like the flywheel, bolts etc.. into the solution, really curious to see how that will look by tomorrow!

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#17
@Secluff or @david, Do you have a 'valve stud bolt' around you could miss?

Fabrice, sorry I must of missed the above when you posted it.
Do you need the rocker stud that that goes through the push rod guide plate or the 3/8" nut that fastens the rocker arm down? The CJ valve train is the same as was on my 72 Police Interceptor heads. I have very little left from my 429 days but may still have some of those type pieces. Just let me know.   Smile

Steve

No Officer...I really don't know how fast I was going, my speedometer stopped at 140!
  Reply
#18
(05-05-2018, 03:22 PM)secluff Wrote: @Secluff or @david, Do you have a 'valve stud bolt' around you could miss?

Fabrice, sorry I must of missed the above when you posted it.
Do you need the rocker stud that that goes through the push rod guide plate or the 3/8" nut that fastens the rocker arm down? The CJ valve train is the same as was on my 72 Police Interceptor heads. I have very little left from my 429 days but may still have some of those type pieces. Just let me know.   Smile

I just need the nut (see pict with 3 same nuts). I've looked everywhere, and I don't have it. So if you have one to spare i'd be happy to buy it from you 
I may also miss some intake bolts too, i dunno atm. I will know for sure when I'll try the intake on the block. For now, I prefer it stays in its sealed plastic till I have the new cam, lifters etc...

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#19
oil pan welded, painted.
c6 pan same treatment
flywheel ready
[Image: panwheelc6.jpg]

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#20
My friend this car is becoming something so special. The fact that it was rescued from the crusher is a story to be told at all the events you go to when it’s done. With the tedious work and care and attention to detail this car and it’s resurrection will be famous. I’m in Toronto Canada, you’d expect to see plenty of 71-3 mustangs around but you really don’t. It’s like seeing a ghost! In the last 20 years I’ve seen maybe 3 drive past me on the road and I quickly point my truck in that direction and follow it for kilometres. So sexy in motion. To have one in Europe and it being a 429. Wow. I’m excited for you. Looking forward to seeing more.
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  71 fastback project rigotti76 38 1,176 06-23-2019, 09:01 PM
Last Post: rigotti76
  Slowest resto ever - Project AmsterFoose Vinnie 63 2,379 06-23-2019, 03:23 PM
Last Post: Fabrice
  MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1) tony-muscle 278 29,158 06-12-2019, 09:39 PM
Last Post: tony-muscle
  1973 "Pro-Touring" project - Creator protouringstang73 477 46,504 04-30-2019, 11:53 AM
Last Post: protouringstang73
  My 72 HT 429/C6 project DerAlte 33 2,587 02-20-2019, 06:05 AM
Last Post: NOT A T5
  71 Vert Project garrett7 42 7,019 12-21-2018, 07:50 AM
Last Post: mudbilly
  New project for this winter. 71 Mach 1 turtle5353 225 23,483 11-01-2018, 10:29 PM
Last Post: John71Coupe
  My 1st 71-73 Project.. it's a great day! soonerbillz 20 2,705 10-03-2018, 10:47 AM
Last Post: soonerbillz



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)