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Ever hear of this remedy?
#1
runninpony 
My new acquisition, the 73 vert has a partially seized engine. The fly wheel can be moved a bit manually, but that's it.
An old timer in town suggests removing the spark plugs and shooting in a diesel and turpentine mixture and letting it sit for winter. He says he's used it before on truck and tractor engines, and it loosens it up well.
Any thoughts?
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#2
Yep Diesel or Marvel Mystery Oil.

Trouble is that if you get it free and start it
chances are it won't have much compression
and smoke a lot because of the stuck piston rings
in their grooves.

Paul
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#3
rocket366;247710 Wrote:Yep Diesel or Marvel Mystery Oil.

Trouble is that if you get it free and start it
chances are it won't have much compression
and smoke a lot because of the stuck piston rings
in their grooves.

Paul

So is there a better option?
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#4
peche 71;247703 Wrote:My new acquisition, the 73 vert has a partially seized engine. The fly wheel can be moved a bit manually, but that's it.
An old timer in town suggests removing the spark plugs and shooting in a diesel and turpentine mixture and letting it sit for winter. He says he's used it before on truck and tractor engines, and it loosens it up well.
Any thoughts?

no point wasting time with oil because your engine needs to come apart if the prob is not in the trans.

flip a coin and remove either the heads or timing cover first and if you dont see a prob, do the other one, and if still no problem, yank the engine and rebuild it.
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#5
barnett468;247717 Wrote:
peche 71;247703 Wrote:My new acquisition, the 73 vert has a partially seized engine. The fly wheel can be moved a bit manually, but that's it.
An old timer in town suggests removing the spark plugs and shooting in a diesel and turpentine mixture and letting it sit for winter. He says he's used it before on truck and tractor engines, and it loosens it up well.
Any thoughts?

no point wasting time with oil because your engine needs to come apart if the prob is not in the trans.

flip a coin and remove either the heads or timing cover first and if you dont see a prob, do the other one, and if still no problem, yank the engine and rebuild it.

If I suspected a trans problem, I would pull the torque converter bolts first. It's the easiest thing to do, takes the least time,and if the engine has to come out will be one thing you won't have to do. I have run into a Ford trans that siezed before. Everyone told the guy he needed a new engine. We pulled engine & trans together and when we separated them, the engine suddenly was free.
If the engine is partially stuck, the very best thing I ever found to free them up is a product called GIBBS. If you suspect a valve problem, pull the carb and pour it right down the manifold. If you think it might be the rings, pull the plugs and shoot some in. Give it a couple days and it will usually free up nearly anything. It's a bit pricey, but well worth having.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
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#6
I've seen diesel used on engines, especially after they have been retrieved from sunken jet boats. If it is not too bad it might work, but most likely you just waste 20 bucks worth of diesel and have a big mess.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#7
thanks for the input, it gives me some options and direction.
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#8
If it is rust in the cylinders and you pull the engine. I have posted about this before. You can google and watch some videos online. You can get you a 55 gallon plastic barrel, usually $15.00, go get yourself 5 gallons of Feed Grade Molasses. It will probably be less than $20.00 at your local feed store. Mix it 9 to 1 with water and stir it up until well mixed. You don't want to fill the barrel because you need room for the engine block to fit and probably the heads. I would have the block & heads tanked to remove all the old paint and grease and then put into the molasses and let set for a couple weeks or longer. It will remove all the rust in the cylinders and water jacket. You might agitate the solutions every few days to freshen up what is inside the block. Raise and lower it a couple times. When you take it out pressure wash it and it will be like new cast iron so spray WD-40 on it immediately or it will flash rust.
Yes it is slow but no glass beads or sand to hide in places inside the engine or water jacket. This will really help on a rebuilt with the cooling of the engine getting most of the rust out. Run taps into all the threads to make sure they are clean and straight, blow them out and send block off to the machine shop for bore and whatever it needs. Works on any type ferrous metal or iron. Exhaust manifolds, fenders, whole car if you have a swimming pool full, lol.
Cane Molasses has the following on the label as ingredients. Phosphoric Acid, Vegetable Oil, Lecithin, Propionic Acid, Sulfuric Acid, Crude Fat, Sugar, Calcium, Potassium, Phosphorus, Chloride, Sodium, Sulfur & Magnesium. Hey we eat the stuff or old timers do. It is made from Sorghum or Sugar Cane and is mainly fed to cattle on their dry feed.
It will not remove paint just the rust.
I keep waiting for a bear to show up mine sits outside on concrete slab.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
.
KROIL OIL is the best rust penetrant hands down.

If you have heavy rust inside your water jackets you can mix 1 lb of oxalic acid to 1 gallon of water and fill it up and let it soak for 2 days and you're done.

If its on the outside, put it in a container etc.

You can also flush your engine every twqo years with it if you want.
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#10
barnett468;247797 Wrote:.
KROIL OIL is the best rust penetrant hands down.

If you have heavy rust inside your water jackets you can mix 1 lb of oxalic acid to 1 gallon of water and fill it up and let it soak for 2 days and you're done.

If its on the outside, put it in a container etc.

You can also flush your engine every twqo years with it if you want.

The Oxalic acid is a lot more toxic and does not take much to kill you 15 - 30 grams. I will cause kidney failure similar to ethylene glycol or antifreeze. It is actually in antifreeze. You don't want it on your skin.
The molasses will not harm your pets if they try it and will not harm them and won't hurt your skin or kill you. That is the big reason I use it. I would never have a tank of 50 - 100 gallons of something that toxic around. I could not due to EPA. Yes the molasses is slow, you have heard the term slow as molasses, that covers a couple areas. But it is safe and won't cause any issues.
Now someone will find something that molasses causes, lol.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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