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Engine (hoist) lift plates...
#1
Just a heads up when using those bolt on (to the carburetor location on intake manifold) lifting plates.

I noticed my engine transmission combo was taking its toll on the area where the hoist hook and plate made contact as I lifted and maneuvered the setup into the engine bay. I had the engine over my radiator support when I first noticed, probably the worst time when you are trying to get the engine back in the car.

After I was done, I took a closer look at it and noted that it was made in India... great. The steel being used appears to be questionable at best. Looking back, should have used a better set up...


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#2
I never use lift plates. I just don't trust them.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#3
^^^ +1
I've dropped an engine in the engine bay, ONCE! Got lazy and trusted a grade 5 bolt that broke.
I've never trusted those 4 little carb studs, especially on an aluminum intake. I always use a chain with grade 8 bolts on each head.
I think you were lucky, and smart to use a back up.

movie stars with addictions go to the Betty Ford clinic,
I take my addiction to the Henry Ford clinic.Haha
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#4
I have used my carb plate for years. Lifted motor and trans all the time, big block- small block whatever. Never had an issue. With any lifting device you don't want to go cheap on them. I have had mine for years and cant remember where I got it from. Just glad you got the motor in with out any damage or further troubles!!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
At the end of the day it comes down to the build quality of any products we choose to use. I have seen these lift plates used everywhere, but as with many other products we buy today, mfr's are going the cheapest route possible to maintain profit margins. An engine lift plate is not one of the items where the grade of steel required to do the job should be compromised. Looking back, paying $5 or $10 for a lift plate, I got what I paid for... I do consider myself lucky and have put this episode behind me.
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#6
That is scary, that the steel (???) could be that soft.

I prefer to use an load leveler bar with 2 chains at front and back, especially when pulling/installing a motor/transmission combination.

I have run the calculations on using the motor plate, and even with 5/16-inch grade 5 bolts in aluminum manifolds (3/8-inch insertion) there is plenty of surplus load capacity, so that shouldn't be a concern to anyone.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
If it is metal and made in India you don't want it. Long story but, I had two axle splines twist almost in two. I found it by accident, just dumb luck.

Chuck
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