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Engine head removal
I’m finally getting around to getting my heads off and getting them repaired. The engine is a 351C 2V.
I need some advice on getting the exhaust manifolds off and any other tricks anyone can provide? I noticed that there is a heat shield on the passenger side only. Also do you have to put the cylinders in their respective place to take the rockers and push rods off?
I did get the AC compressor and Power steering pump out of the way. What a trick that was. Need some help here please.
You hit on the harest part, getting the exhaust manifolds off. Good time for cussing after you get some skinned knuckles. Use a good penetrating oil on the bolts a day of two before you try them, and re-apply a few times. Give them a try, sometimes a back and forth action will work, sometimes it takes heat, sometimes you just wind up by break the bolts off. Because you're going to be taking the heads off anyway, not a big deal if you do break one or two, not so good when you break them and weren't planning to remove the heads. I've never located the cylinders before removing the rockers. If you're going to re-use them, make sure you keep them in order, so the rocker, fulcrum, push rods and lifters all go back in the same place and match.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
I did mine exactly the same way that Don described it. Spray penetrating fluid as often as possible for two days before trying to crank out the exhaust mani bolts. I broke one but as Don said, no biggie if removing the heads. Get a pair of $15 mechanix gloves and you'll wind up with fewer bloody knuckles.

Good luck and let us know how things go.



[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
The BEST penetrating oil you can buy is KROIL OIL. It is not cheap, but there is nothing better. One shot in the evening, one shot 12 hours later and you will be surprised how easy you exhaust manifold bolts come off.

Buy online or at OUTSTANDING men only hardware/tool stores.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
2nd for KROIL OIL it is the best on the market
The best penetrating oil I've seen is a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone. It sounds hokey but it really works.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
Dynamite. It'll get those manifolds off, no problem.


[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
You will be way ahead to just pull the engine out for this job.
What is the best position in removing the exhaust manifolds from the top or underneath?

Studs / nuts for pipes to manifolds - from under the car

Bolts / studs on engine - from above

NOTE - if your new to this make sure you get good quality 6 point sockets.


If you end up needing 2 V heads or parts let me know

Ohio Mustang Supply

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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