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engine build advice
#11
That 15966 Crower looks like what you want, 112 LC, duration at .050 good with Automatic and power brakes. I know, I know, we all want our engines to sound like top fuelers, but race engines don't make good street engines, and vice-versa. You can enhance a camshaft's breathing with better heads, intake, carburetion, headers, etc...……..but try to tame or lug a big cam to run it on the street is not efficient. In the end, it's your car, but I'll always advise restraint when choosing a cam grind. as most poor running street engines problems can be traced directly to the cam selected. Your camshaft supplier's tech dept will tell you the same.
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#12
Well after taking all the advice given here and from other sources I have narrowed my cam choice down to two cams, if I go for a solid flat tappet the cam will be the lunati 411A1 cam but if I go for a hydraulic flat tappet it will be a crower 15966. Both cams have very similar valve timing with the lunati cam having a bit more duration @ .050 and a bit more lift, as the car will not be doing much street driving ( it will mainly be a show car ) having to adjust the rockers every now and again for a solid cam is not a problem.
The rear axle ratio will also probably be a 3.73:1 ratio ( which will suit the cams better ) and the tyre's are 27" tall ( 255/60/15 ) and I will see about getting a converter to suit the cam choice ( 2500 - 2800 stall ). After cleaning up my cylinder heads and cc'ing them I ended up with a cylinder head volume of about  67 - 68 cc's, with this measurement and others of the bore I will be ending up with a compression ratio of 9.60:1 to 9.70:1 depending on the head gasket choice, this means with either of the cams I end up with a dynamic compression ratio of about 7.80:1.
the other bits I have still to decide on, are the harmonic damper ( pioneer or powerbond ) is it worth paying out the extra for the steel damper over the nodular iron for street use, and the water pump ( mildon 16235 or flowkooler 1648 ).
Again any advice on these final few choices will be appreciated.
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#13
Go with the flowcooler waterpump, got 1 on my 393C over 500hp and will run 180 degrees all day with a stock 3 core radiator.
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#14
Given the stated use, don't be concerned about adjusting solid lifters. If done properly, they don't need to be adjusted very often. Either way, pay attention to optimizing rocker arm geometry and valve spring pressures. It sounds like a solid build to me. Chuck
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#15
I have a Streetdamper on my car. I installed it when my original damper failed in about 1999. Its been on three engines and still going strong. It did not need any spacers and was a direct swap for the original. I highly recommend it.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/f.../overview/

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#16
(09-13-2018, 07:38 PM)Don C Wrote: Damper - The only two I know of that have the correct snout are Dorman and Pioneer Automotive. Other, better (more expensive), brands do not have the correct length snout and requires spacers.  
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-cran...#pid149995

Roller Rockers - Scorpion or Harland Sharp

Timing set - Cloyes or Howards

Lifters - Hydraulic, Crower or Lunati

Cam - Hydraulic, Lunati 62504, Crower 15243 284HDP or 15242 280HDP, Howards 238001-09 (281/289, Lift .554/.562) or 230041-12 (279/289, Lift .536/.542)

Your engine is only the second one that I have heard of that was successfully bored out to 0.060 over. 0.030, sometimes 0.040, is usually the limit.
I also have 1970 2v block bored 60 over. Still runs great.
Alex
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#17
Hi

Can you use the B & M shifter with the FMX ?

I read it wrong thought it was a B6M Shifter but it was shift kit , sorry.

For knowing your limit you have to pass it thumb
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