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Engine breakin oil question
#1
Hi guys
Engine will be coming back from the shop in about a month so I am preparing for break in....
I have flat tapped lifters and a stroker 408 Cleveland.

I bought sae30 Lucas breakin oil. Is that good oil and should I use any other weight ?

Its still cold up here in Canada so I will break it in when temperature gets to above 60 Fahrenheit. 

Thanks
Alex
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#2
there's gonna be a ton of views on best way or how they do it... how i did my last 2 sbf builds.... 10w30 oil and a bottle of lucas zink break in stuff. and don't short change yourself on assembly lube. u can get the pre-oiler tool.
for a side note. i change my oil every fall just before my last show to get new oil all over. and i add a bottle of lucas zinc too.
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#3
The company that built my motor insisted (I had to sign a document and send to them) that I use ZDDPLUS when first starting the motor, and this was after paying them to do the initial break in on their engine stand. I've used a bottle on every oil change since then (once a year every spring).

Can't really say that it does anything, but I've had no issues. It's always impossible to say what would have happened if you didn't use something.

https://zddplus.com/

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#4
That will be fine - you will be changing that day for another round OR conventional oil WITH a Zinc and can then choose a 10/40 or so. You don't want a synthetic or a NON detergent YET !

IF your break in is on a stand and will then be installing in a restoration- I would opt for a weight that would be good in all temps IN CASE you don't get to the ring seating (read load driven) point until next year. That oil of course would be dumped at 300 to 500 miles.

Mark
P.S. We always go through 3 cycles on break in with filter change sometimes more filters if a fully machined engine
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#5
Oil viscosity should be based on bearing clearances and intended use of the engine. The straight 30W should be fine for break in. You can use it for the first 400-500 miles then switch to an oil designed for old style flat tappet cams. I strongly suggest priming the engine before starting. Also, go to great lengths to ensure the battery is fully charged and the timing is very close to being correct  and the carb being close enough to correct (and bowls full) to quickly start and run the engine for at least a 20 minute break in cycle. Depending on outdoor temperature and the cooling system, a large fan made be needed to keep coolant temperature at an acceptable level. Let us know how things go. Chuck
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#6
(03-24-2019, 08:02 AM)c9zx Wrote: Oil viscosity should be based on bearing clearances and intended use of the engine. The straight 30W should be fine for break in. You can use it for the first 400-500 miles then switch to an oil designed for old style flat tappet cams. I strongly suggest priming the engine before starting. Also, go to great lengths to ensure the battery is fully charged and the timing is very close to being correct  and the carb being close enough to correct (and bowls full) to quickly start and run the engine for at least a 20 minute break in cycle. Depending on outdoor temperature and the cooling system, a large fan made be needed to keep coolant temperature at an acceptable level. Let us know how things go. Chuck

Thanks guys. I should of mentioned that the car will not be ready for driving after breakin as I am still restoring it. It will only see idling for about 6 months or so. I was planning on breaking it in with Lucas break in and flushing that oil immidietely after 25 minutes. Then going with 10w30 with bottle of Lucas zddp additives

I will prime the engine first . 

Lucas break in oil I bought has already zddp additives in it
Thanks for your help
Alex
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#7
(03-24-2019, 09:39 AM)EvilPuppetMaster Wrote:  It will only see idling for about 6 months or so.
Alex

I don't like the sound of this at all .  Idling is probably the worst thing evah for a new motor.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
  Reply
#8
(03-24-2019, 10:00 AM)mudbilly Wrote:
(03-24-2019, 09:39 AM)EvilPuppetMaster Wrote:  It will only see idling for about 6 months or so.
Alex

I don't like the sound of this at all .  Idling is probably the worst thing evah for a new motor.

Then I might wait until car is painted and interior is back together before I brake it in.
I have another engine in it now so I am not in rush. What is the best way to preserve the engine for 6 months or so? I dont want any rust developing inside

Cheers
Alex
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#9
Does your shop have an engine run stand? If so I would have them break it in and change the oil and have them prep it for storage. That way the entire inside of the engine will be coated with oil. Make sure they use either antifreeze or a rust inhibitor in the coolant. Have them use fogging oil to coat the inside of the heads, valves, and cylinders. Pull the carburetor and drain it. Store the engine in the dryest and cleanest location you can.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#10
(03-24-2019, 10:43 AM)EvilPuppetMaster Wrote:
(03-24-2019, 10:00 AM)mudbilly Wrote:
(03-24-2019, 09:39 AM)EvilPuppetMaster Wrote:  It will only see idling for about 6 months or so.
Alex

I don't like the sound of this at all .  Idling is probably the worst thing evah for a new motor.

Then I might wait until car is painted and interior is back together before I brake it in.
I have another engine in it now so I am not in rush. What is the best way to preserve the engine for 6 months or so? I dont want any rust developing inside

Cheers
Alex

That isn't what he meant !! HE meant "will sit idle" for 6 months (probably longer) WHILE continuing restoration. From reading this post - he knows to fire and get to 2500/3000 RPM at once and DUMP the oil from that period .

AS TO not "rusting" - you just want to keep it sealed. (never remove plugs on a motor that will sit) Nor would you move a carb UNLESS you tape seal from the atmosphere.

Mark
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