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Electronic Ignition
#31
Did you bypass the resistor wire, not necessary, but recommended for the 1281?

Did you set the gap?

Did you reconnect the small bare ground wire that connects the breaker plate to the distributor body?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#32
(11-12-2018, 05:40 PM)Don C Wrote: Did you bypass the resistor wire, not necessary, but recommended for the 1281?

Did you set the gap?

Did you reconnect the small bare ground wire that connects the breaker plate to the distributor body?

When you say the resistor wire is that the one that goes to the positive side of the coil? Also I did set the gap using the included plastic gap piece that came in the box. Should I change it?
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#33
runninpony 
I've made the conversion to a pertronix 1 25 years ago and it still works great.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#34
Idem dito. P1 is on the 73 for +-30 years.
Plug & play, simple and durable. Never failed.

It works flawless with an EFI (sniper) too. No tach probs either.
On the Holley forum some have reported issues with the P3.

Some alternatives might be just as good or better but as it does the job pretty well, never tried another one.
Already have one set for my 429.

The only thing I needed to do at some point, (there were not so many applications/variations back then).
is to buy a spacer for the magnet when I went for a mallory dist on the 351.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#35
I changed the gap and its running better but still not smooth. Any videos out there on setting timing? I feel that may be the reason for the car idle.
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#36
The resistor wire runs from a connector under the dash to a connector under the hood, and is pink in color. It connects to the wire that is connected to your coil at that connector under the hood.

Setting the gap with the plastic gauge is the accurate way to do it, and should not need any further adjustments.

How about the bare ground wire, inside of the distributor? is that connected? it must be for the Pertronix to function properly.

This should help you with timing your engine:
https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/fordignition/



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#37
Thank you, I attached the ground wire, running better but a little rough when idling
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#38
You might have fouled a spark plug, or two, when it was missing. The rough idle could also be carburetor adjustment or a vacuum leak.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#39
I switched over to a Pertronix II with matching coil and wires on my '71 M code. Before the conversion I had some trouble with the car turning over. After the switch my car turns over on the first crank every time, I did open the gap a bit and it seems to run much happier. Myy tach still works fine. I have read the III can give you trouble with the tach. I like the hidden aspect of it as I am a big fan of stock looking but not stock performance ?

If you ain't learning, you ain't living. 
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