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Electrical issue, won't start justs makes one "click" noise
#11
What ignition coil did you replace the original with? Some aftermarket ones require 12 volts - this may now be your problem.

The red with light blue stripe is your start circuit - it pulls the solenoid in to start the starter motor - there is  an auxiliary contact on the starter solenoid that feeds 12 volts to the coil when cranking ( posting pui so cant remember if it's the I or the S post on the solenoid) the red with the green stripe goes to the positive on your coil. The negative on the coil goes straight to your points to discharge the coil.

Hope this helps

Shane

Adelaide

73 Mach 1
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#12
(10-28-2018, 07:54 PM)Don C Wrote: In addition to the above, check your ground cable. Does it connect to both the chassis/body and the engine block, and are the connects to clean metal? In the year it wasn't run the metal the ground cables connect to may have rusted/corroded.

99% of starting issues can be traced back to the ground cable. Ford's original cable had a tab that was bolted under the lower rear screw of the voltage regulator on the fender apron. Many replacements don't have this feature, or get ignored by the "mechanic". Make sure you have a good connection at the battery, on the block, and that you have the tab that bolts to the fender apron. 

Ground path:

battery -> fender apron -> block

This listing on CJ's shows the tab on the ground cable very well.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-classics-...73/p/BC12/


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#13
(11-01-2018, 11:37 PM)mcampbell26915 Wrote: Matt 
 There is a wire coming directly from the distributor leading to the ignition coil, is that wire supposed to be on the positive terminal of the coil or the negative? I forgot to take a note of which wire goes where before I removed them from the old coil.


The SIngle wire from the distributor goes to the - Negitive marked post on the coil.    

I would suggest slowing down, using your camera on your phone and taking photos so you can go back and refer to them.  Most of this stuff is second nature to us, as we have been buying, fixing and restoring cars for 40+ years.

We got this info from reading and doing over and over.  So that info "builds" (like you build a layered cake)  TODAY - in the rush to do we often see "I'll try this!"    

Mark
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#14
Did you find out why the starter wouldn't disengage?

If the small S and I posts are wired backwards the starter will engage with key ON and stay engaged until key OFF.

If you twisted either if the large posts on the new solenoid they can become 'cocked' inside the case and spot weld the disc to the stud.
Make sure your replacement is a good quality solenoid - get a Motorcraft one from NPD to be sure.

Bob

Tachs, Voltmeters, Headlight kits, Wiper delays and more at
[Image: smlogo.jpg]
Rocketman's Classic Cougar (and Mustang) Innovations, LLC
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#15
Firing order is correct, just checked it this morning.  Tried turning it over again and it just cranks, occasionally it sounds like it wants to start but for the most part it just cranks without any firing. it cranks for a while (5 seconds) and then makes this loud clank then spit/cough sound and stops cranking altogether.  after cranking for 5 seconds there is a strong gasoline smell, making me think it was flooded, but I didnt touch the gas petal at all while trying to start it.  Same thing happened last night- I tried starting it, it cranked, stopped cranking after a while, and then strong gas smell.  anyone have any idea why this might be? sounds like im not getting spark now because I at least got it to run (very roughly) before I replaced the plugs,wires distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil.
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#16
(11-02-2018, 12:54 PM)mcampbell26915 Wrote: Firing order is correct, just checked it this morning.  Tried turning it over again and it just cranks, occasionally it sounds like it wants to start but for the most part it just cranks without any firing. it cranks for a while (5 seconds) and then makes this loud clank then spit/cough sound and stops cranking altogether.  after cranking for 5 seconds there is a strong gasoline smell, making me think it was flooded, but I didnt touch the gas petal at all while trying to start it.  Same thing happened last night- I tried starting it, it cranked, stopped cranking after a while, and then strong gas smell.  anyone have any idea why this might be? sounds like im not getting spark now because I at least got it to run (very roughly) before I replaced the plugs,wires distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil.

Sorry for all of my rapid posting.  I connected the ignition coil up properly and just tried cranking it more because it kept sounding like it wanted to start.  eventually after cranking for a little bit I got it to start.  it ran pretty rough for about 1 full minute (3 second periods of smooth running followed by 3 seconds of extremely rough running back and forth), and then it died.  so now we are back where we started- runs for a little bit but then dies.  could it be the points/condenser? gas, fuel pump and fuel filter is new, looks like its getting plenty clean gas so I dont think gas is the issue.  while it was running I sprayed starting fluid around all the vacuum lines carb and intake manifold and the RPM's didnt kick up at all, so I dont think its a vacuum issue.  leaves me with spark being the issue but I replaced many of those components and its still having the issue. could the timing have gotten messed up at some point causing this? or possibly the idle adjustment screws on the carb?  Sorry if I sound like a noob! Thanks guys
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#17
rule of thumb.
you have air, Spark, fuel.

air is working
spark is working

next issue fuel. did it go bad in the tank. is the carb gummed up with bad gas. is there a clogged fuel filter. etc...
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#18
(11-02-2018, 01:20 PM)72HCODE Wrote: rule of thumb.
you have air, Spark, fuel.

air is working
spark is working

next issue fuel. did it go bad in the tank. is the carb gummed up with bad gas. is there a clogged fuel filter. etc...

Hi 72HCODE,

The fuel was pretty old so I drained the tank and lines last week and replaced it with new (87 octane, maybe shouldve used 93?) gas and replaced the fuel filter as well. So if there is an issue with fuel it would be from a gummed up carb since I havent rebuilt the carb in about 4 years.  sounds like its time for a carb rebuild, or maybe i'll just replace it this time, and see if that smooths it out.  any recommendations on 2 bbl carbs (preferably under 300 bucks)?
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#19
Turing into a FB style post....where you will have to go back and REREAD all of the OP issues/changes that got to this point!

I Have reread, see you have been "changing a lot of things" so you have to either go over your work and confirm done right OR start from here and pin point what the problem is.

Fuel or SparK

1) Fuel - just use some of that Starting fluid and see if THIS TIME WHEN CRANKING "it fires" !! If so you have a fuel issue.

2) From above IF NOT.....then you have a secondary spark issue (too weak).

If spark, I would clean the points with sandpaper lightly and try again. SOme would say replace the condenser - but for now let's see if it is just a corrosion issue.

Remember you can isolate the entire car and run a wire from the battery + to the + of the coil to isolate wire harness issues.

Mark
P.S. WHat I hope is that there isn't something you haven't told us .....like "I took the distributor out to change the cap/wires" ! (Then we would be looking at ignition timing not secondary spark/advance. Did you TURN the distributor at all ????
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#20
(11-02-2018, 02:44 PM)SVO2SCJ Wrote: Turing into  a FB style post....where you will have to go back and REREAD all of the OP issues/changes that got to this point!

I Have reread, see you have been "changing a lot of things"  so you have to either go over your work and confirm done right OR start from here and pin point what the problem is.

Fuel or SparK

1) Fuel  - just use some of that Starting fluid and see if THIS TIME WHEN CRANKING "it fires" !!    If so you have a fuel issue.

2)  From above IF NOT.....then you have a secondary spark issue (too weak).  

If spark, I would clean the points with sandpaper lightly and try again.  SOme would say replace the condenser - but for now let's see if it is just a corrosion issue.  

Remember you can isolate the entire car and run a wire from the battery + to the + of the coil  to isolate wire harness issues.

Mark
P.S.  WHat I hope is that there isn't something you haven't told us .....like "I took the distributor out to change the cap/wires" !    (Then we would be looking at ignition timing not secondary spark/advance.     Did you TURN the distributor at all ????
Hi Mark, thanks for your help.  I did mention in the last couple posts that I did get it to turn over and run for a little bit but then it stalls out, no starting fluid needed to get it to fire (in reference to #1).  as far as spark goes (#2), I just replaced all of the plugs so I dont see how they would be corroded already being only 24 hours old, so sandpaper wouldnt do much there. I'm thinking its a carb issue since its running way too rich.  I think this because there are black deposits lining tailpipe and black smoke coming out. I also pulled one of the plugs and found that there was fuel on it. that combined with the constant smell of fuel whenever I try starting it laeds me to think it is running way too rich (possibly there is grime in the carb keeping the needle valve open).  If that is the case then I think just rebuilding the carb would do the trick, or getting a new carb.  would you agree with that? or do you think it is something else altogether.

Thanks again!
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