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Edelbrock performer vs RPM air gap
#1
I'm rebuilding a 302 cid out a 1969 Mustang Pony and I'm going to put it in my '73 Sportroof. I put a mild Edelbrock cam (2122) in it and the E-Street heads and I was going to put a Performer intake on it until I started looking at the air gap. I saw a video on u-tube comparing the two intakes and he was saying how the exhaust runner heats up the manifold too much. I like the idea behind the air gap. Raising the runners up and leaving the gap to keep the air/fuel mix cooler before it enters the cylinder makes sense to me.
Has anyone else compared the two or replaced a Performer with the RPM Air Gap? Curious if anyone has checked the two out, before I buy either one.
Any thoughts?
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#2
Airgaps are the hot choice lots of proven results,weiand stealths seem to work really well on windsors too

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#3
I have an airgap on my stang and love it, excellent power through out the powerband. It is my understanding that using it with a functional ram air setup is out with this manifold though. My car has a 2V cleveland and not a 302 so this probably doesn't help you any.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#4
Just curious as to why it's a no-go with a functional ram air setup. Is there something about the cooling with fresh outside air that makes it not work, or is it simply the spacing, or height of the carb is off? Just curious. I have all the stuff from the hood for functional ram air, but I don't have the air filter housing that matches up. I figured when I got closer to being done, I'd just make my own to match up whatever carb height to a filter with a housing that will mate up to the ram air on the bottom of the hood. Granted, I don't have the air gap intake, and don't know that I'd buy a new one just to change.
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#5
I believe it is due to the height of the airgap intake maniold vs the stock manifold.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#6
Yep it's a height issue. I am sure someone got it to work with a drop base from a L88 vette,may have been on a 429 and I am not sure if they are a member here. Does a 302 sit as high in the bay as a clevo?? I have no idea on that angle.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
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#7
Mikes73;187698 Wrote:I have an airgap on my stang and love it, excellent power through out the powerband. It is my understanding that using it with a functional ram air setup is out with this manifold though. My car has a 2V cleveland and not a 302 so this probably doesn't help you any.

Hmm.... I have the ram air hood but none of the parts of the plenum. I was thinking of trying to gather all the spare parts and making it functional but I would probably need a stock carb on it too. Not too worried about that right now.
I just feel like if I've put all the time and money into this engine and I'm buying a new intake anyway, I want it to have some more HP and Torque. I've been working on this engine for almost 3 years. As long as the Air Gap is worth the extra cash over the Performer.
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#8
Your cam is on the small side for that intake. Not a major mismatch.. but the intake has a higher rpm range than the cam. It will work, it will just fall off the cam before the intake is done.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
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#9
Totalled;187757 Wrote:Your cam is on the small side for that intake. Not a major mismatch.. but the intake has a higher rpm range than the cam. It will work, it will just fall off the cam before the intake is done.

^^This^^

The intake needs to be matched to the rest of the components; cam, rear gear, etc....Also need to consider how you intend to use the car.

If you intend to drive the car in cool weather, the airgap can be a little cranky.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#10
I agree with TommyK on the cold blooded nature of the air gap intake.
I run one on a Cleveland in my model A and it can be cranky when its cooler. IMO if you're going to drive the car all year in cold climates, its not the one for you.
Thanks, Jay
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