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Eastwood Chassis Black Bad Luck.
#1
Eastwood Chassis Black Bad Luck.

I had some bad luck with this stuff twice.
First I had two quarts and two cans. The quarts did match the cans and one quart had a much higher sheen then the other. I kept trying to spot fix areas in my engine bay and finally ended up completely sanding down my engine bay and left it in primer.

My next deal was I detailed a bunch of parts, used SEM self etch primer then spray bombed with Eastwood Chassis Black. Two days later the paint scrapes off. Then I read you can't use the stuff over self etching primer. Eastwood says It will never cure and if it does it will flake off. Now I have lots of stuff to strip again. Lesson learned!

No problems with my Rustoleum top coats.
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#2
If you can spray it, an epoxy semi-gloss on bare metal seems to work well. Just a thought. Chuck
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#3
I have read several user comments about Eastmans' poor black paint.. I would strongly suggest taking the time to research any of Eastmans products before you buy. IMHO
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#4
I bought a can of SEM black self etch a few weeks ago from a retailer that I sell parts to.
I may return it. There was no price on the shelf, but I took it up to the register anyways. At just over 20 smackeroos plus tax, t's by far the most expensive spraybomb primer that I've ever purchased. The last cans that I bought were just under 10 bucks each, and I cringed then.

I used our house brand (I work for a company that sells paint and aftermarket body parts) 1K gray self etch on an engine block once. Let it sit for a week before topcoating with Nason black hardened enamel. It too chipped off the next day. It was explained to me that there is a window that the primer is "open" for topcoat, and will skin over when cured. It can be topcoated after the window only after scuffing with Scotchbrite or similar to provide "tooth" for the topcoat.

Haven't tried it since.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#5
Hey Guys,

I know you will think that i'm stating the obvious here, but it always pays to read all applicataion and tech info either on the side of the paint tins or aerosols, or refer to the paint companies data sheets if they produce them for any particular paint product you might be using. The net is a good source for this info. I'm a pro auto painter, and after 38 years in the game, i still religiously check tech info before i use any paint that i'm not totally familiar with.

A lot of DIY boys mix and match their primers and top coats as well as different paint brands, and paint types these days, and it's easy to come undun with paint problems such as the ones stated above, if you don't do the homework first.

Wise old saying - Measure twice, cut once.Wink

Greg.Smile

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#6
Austin Vert;192897 Wrote:Hey Guys,

I know you will think that i'm stating the obvious here, but it always pays to read all applicataion and tech info either on the side of the paint tins or aerosols, or refer to the paint companies data sheets if they produce them for any particular paint product you might be using. The net is a good source for this info. I'm a pro auto painter, and after 38 years in the game, i still religiously check tech info before i use any paint that i'm not totally familiar with.

A lot of DIY boys mix and match their primers and top coats as well as different paint brands, and paint types these days, and it's easy to come undun with paint problems such as the ones stated above, if you don't do the homework first.

Wise old saying - Measure twice, cut once.Wink

Greg.Smile

I hear you Greg. Just got lazy! Now I have a days worth of work to strip this stuff.Sad
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#7
When I have something that lives in a harsh environment and needs to be "pretty" and bulletproof I like to "etch" the base metal then use epoxy primer and a Urethane topcoat. I'll babysit the primer until it's tacky but doesn't pull and barely takes a fingerprint then top coat it as slow as the paint will go and still melt without hazing or beading. All the timing is a little tedious but it's bulletproof. It's good to have a test panel nearby to check your progress.
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#8
i used SEM gray self etch then SEM semi flat black Trim for the engine bay, been holding for over 6 years now.
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#9
Used Eastwood semigloss chassis black on engine compartment of my 66. Went on nice and flat. I mixed exactly as directed and for some reason the paint is not durable at all. You can run your finger across it with some light dust on it and it scratches like crazy. Should be much more durable. I've painted cars for 15 years so not like I didn't know what I was doing.
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#10
I have parts that I sprayed with epoxy then this stuff and it's very hard. I really think it's touchy with what primer you use or maybe even humidity.
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