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Dynamat the only option?
#21
I used Rattle Trap XXX. It was about half the cost of Dynamat. Same performance. Dont expect miracles. What this type of material does is remove the harmonics that resonate thru the car body. It IS worth it though. You just dont have to do every square inch. Do the floor, headliner, inside the doors, the real resonant parts, big flat areas. If you want to reduce the noise inside the car, you will have to go further with something like Luxury Liner, which is a mass loaded vinyl. Its damn expensive but it really reduces the sound.

As others said above, reducing the sound of the car, using rubber bushings instead of poly will do more than anything.


I would like to try the lizard skin and ceramic heat shield they have. They are spray on products similar to truck bed liner. Far easier to apply than the peel and stick and likely to last much longer as well. Does the same thing with the added benefit of being able to spray it over the spray on heat shield. These cars make alot of heat, anything you can do to combat that is a welcome thing.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#22
Just some info from my past working with Ford and also John Deere.
Ford used a laminated steel, plastic, steel in their pick ups before the aluminum now. Might still be laminated I do not know. The firewall and part of front floor had the laminated material. It deadened the engine noise. If you thumped the material with a wrench it did not sound like normal and did actually work very good.
I suggest to John Deere that they use it in their large tractor cabs we were doing a redesign on. There engineers said that it would not work with the big diesel engines that the harmonics were different??
They had this thick under the floor mat material might have been 1 1/2" thick to kill the noise from the tractors diesel engine.
I was working with a new material called Tegris developed by the textile mill Milliken in Spartanburg, S.C.. https://textiles.milliken.com/products/tegris
Stronger than carbon fiber and lighter than aluminum. It was used in the splitters on NASCAR and also in bodies for Indy cars along with armor for military vehicles. The issue with carbon fiber is that when they have a crash it splinters and makes very sharp point that puncture tires easily if the track is not cleaned spotless.
I was doing forming experiments using different amounts of Tegris between layers of steel and aluminum. I wanted to develop it to be use in door side impact beams and pick up truck beds. The other thought was to use for the sides of campers and motor homes. The crap they have now usually used Luian plywood with fiberglass sheets that get wet and fall apart. Of course after I left the company nobody carried on with the development. It also gave some sound deadening properties.
If any of you are in product development it is a fantastic material for sure.
A big part of my job was to come up with new materials and processes that gave us the upper hand.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#23
Not sure if it was mentioned but summitracing has some cheaper self branded mats but I'm not sure if they're the absolute cheapest out there
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#24
I did Eastwood XMAT


https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-inst...is-weekend
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#25
If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go with the Lizard Skin like Mike did.  Mask stuff off once, shoot the coating, peel off the mask, and go from there.  Installing the 'mat products' is an all day affair (if not more), very slow-going, and requires lots of skill to get anything close to the same kind of almost-100% coverage that spray-on coatings could afford.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#26
I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go. They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with. These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#27
(05-01-2019, 02:49 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go.  They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with.  These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

Actually, mine seems to have the opposite issue, since I went with ceramic-coated headers (Hooker Competition ceramic-coated long-tubes, actually).  I've used several different laser thermometers pointed at various different points on the engine and exhaust system while idling after several minutes at a time, and expected to see temps in the '400-to-600-and-above' range on the headers.  I've never seen anything close to that.  I think on the end of the tubes right at the mounting surface of the head - where you would expect to see the highest temps, I might've seen temps in the 250-270 range.  Seriously - nothing ever higher than that... on the headers, no less!  I was concerned with the higher temps of headers, especially since it seems like the starter gets a little bit of heat soak after running awhile (it has that little stutter when cranking, like the battery just ran down to zero for a split-second, then it cranks right over).  But aside from that, I have no evidence that my engine's running any hotter than it should be - ever.

But, you are correct that any and all heat shielding is a good thing.   thumb

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#28
I had my headers coated with CeraKote on the outside and InsulKote on the inside and yes they put off very little heat on the actual header, however when you measure the temp of the exhaust pipe from the header collectors back to just past the H-Pipe they are extremely hot which is right under your feet.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#29
(05-01-2019, 03:20 PM)Mister 4x4 Wrote:
(05-01-2019, 02:49 PM)jowens1126 Wrote: I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go.  They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with.  These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

Actually, mine seems to have the opposite issue, since I went with ceramic-coated headers (Hooker Competition ceramic-coated long-tubes, actually).  I've used several different laser thermometers pointed at various different points on the engine and exhaust system while idling after several minutes at a time, and expected to see temps in the '400-to-600-and-above' range on the headers.  I've never seen anything close to that.  I think on the end of the tubes right at the mounting surface of the head - where you would expect to see the highest temps, I might've seen temps in the 250-270 range.  Seriously - nothing ever higher than that... on the headers, no less!  I was concerned with the higher temps of headers, especially since it seems like the starter gets a little bit of heat soak after running awhile (it has that little stutter when cranking, like the battery just ran down to zero for a split-second, then it cranks right over).  But aside from that, I have no evidence that my engine's running any hotter than it should be - ever.

But, you are correct that any and all heat shielding is a good thing.   thumb

I have the same ceramic coated headers and the other day for the first time had the same issue you had with the starter. At first it stuttered as if the battery was low and then it cranked right away. I have a hi-torque starter as well which is smaller and it is more separated from the header. I may have to add a heat shield in the area.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#30
I did both coatings. I can say when you close the doors or trunk it just seems tight even as bear shell.


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- Mike
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