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Drive shaft conundrum
#1
So I am going from a C6 to a TKO600. I will need a shaft about 3" longer. The issue is that I am eventually planing to upgrade the rear axle's pumpkin to a lower ratio, Truetrack and 1350 pinion. Right now I have the stock 3.00 with 1310. Ideally, I would like to use the new transmission and 408 stroker for a while with my current setup before I upgrade the rear axle. I am undecided if I would want 3.50 or 3.70, so I would like to feel it with my current 3.00 before I make that decision Shootself . That said I will need a drive shaft to work with my current setup, but I assume this shaft is not going to work with the 1350 setup after I upgrade. That said, what are my options? should I get a cheap drive shaft now to work with my current setup and then later upgrade the drive shaft to be 1350 all the way. Or can I make a drive shaft work with my current 1310 and later work with the upgraded 1350?  Chin Chin

PS: I won't be able to be too aggressive during the first 500 miles any ways to allow the transmission to break in so the 1310 u-joints should hold during that period. However, I won't drive too mild because I will also need to seat the piston rings.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#2
Spicer/094/5-460X

Could have a nice shaft built with a 1350 yoke and use a conversion u-joint for now.
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#3
Yep. I would invest in a good quality driveshaft (should be 51” for a tko600). I am buying mine from dynotech engineering. Not cheap but balanced to 8000 rpm and all the nascar guys are using them so that’s cool too. Use the conversion u joint until you make the swap then put in the 1350 joints. The non greasable u joints are stronger than the greasable ones.

John
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#4
(06-09-2018, 06:42 AM)johnwanzel Wrote: Yep. I would invest in a good quality driveshaft (should be 51” for a tko600). I am buying mine from dynotech engineering. Not cheap but balanced to 8000 rpm and all the nascar guys are using them so that’s cool too. Use the conversion u joint until you make the swap then put in the 1350 joints. The non greasable u joints are stronger than the greasable ones.
My question is if the drive shaft length would change after i change the center section of the rear axle. The rear pinion yoke is now 1310 but i will change to 1350 eventually.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#5
The answer to that question depends on what yoke you choose to use on your new Carrier.

I’d break out a measuring device and see.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/produ...-h-d.html/

The only distance that matters is the overall length of the yoke. How far it is from where the yoke touches the race of the outer pinion bearing to center of the yoke caps. Kinda hard to measure the one you have but you should b able to get in the ballpark.
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#6
I do not know about the drive shaft. I was at my friends shop couple days ago and he is changing his Ford 9" rear in his 500+ CI 66 pontiac GTO. He is pulling out a Moser Detroit Locker with 35 spline center. He is looking to sell just the guts would you be interested? You will not break the 35 spline with a 351.
On the subject of breaking in the rings on your engine. Once the engine has heated up one time the seating is done and only normal wear takes place. If all your clearances are right you run as hard as you want. When we built race engines the cam and rings were only break in and that was done in minutes. I would think the transmission mfg. would run them in on a dyno during production and would expect no break in there either. I would check with them.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#7
The size difference between the 1310,1330,-and 1350 joints are only a matter of approx 1/2” difference. I don’t think the change between the ujoints will have any impact on the shaft or the placement of the yoke in the trans.

John
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#8
(06-09-2018, 09:51 AM)Bentworker Wrote: The answer to that question depends on what yoke you choose to use on your new Carrier.

I’d break out a measuring device and see.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/produ...-h-d.html/

The only distance that matters is the overall length of the yoke. How far it is from where the yoke touches the race of the outer pinion bearing to center of the yoke caps. Kinda hard to measure the one you have but you should b able to get in the ballpark.
Good idea. Since I am eventually planing on getting my rear end from Strange I can look at the dimensions of the 1350 compared to what i have now.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#9
Does anyone know the dimensions of the stock 1310 pinion yoke? Right now I am 4,000 miles away from my car.

PS: 9" ford 3.00 gears

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#10
Update:
After measuring, my diff has the 5" yoke. The center section sold by Strange has the 4" yoke and they don't have an option with the 5" yoke. So I am left with the option of finding a center section with a 5" yoke, or replacing my current yoke from 5" to 4". Any ideas?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
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