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Drip rail trim
#1
Anyone have tips/suggestions on the best way to remove the chrome trim without to much damage. If possible

Thanks


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#2
Strip out the rubber weather strip itself and there are screws that hold the trim to the body. Never had an issue removing the trim, the foam tape is usually all dried up and turning to dust anyway. Just make sure you get all of the screws out.

FYI - the trim is bright dip aluminum, not chrome.


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#3
I just removed mine this week and polished the roof rails will be going back on this weekend probably.
The foam tape sucks. When my car was brand new it leaked horrible. The Ford dealer shot RTV in the gaps around the rear side window and it finally stopped. When I pulled the rail off there is a rectangle hole there that the foam tape was not covering all so it leaked.
Like stated there is a series of phillips washer head screws holding the trim under the rubber seal. Daniel Carpenter makes the best seals out there same as Ford.
When you go to get the screws loose insert a phillips in the head and hit the screw driver several times with a hammer. This will break the rust loose if rusty. Use plastic trim removal tools to pry the roof rail loose once all the screws are out.
My foam tape was still a sticky mess but not the best way to seal up just good for the assembly line.
When I go back I am using the 3-M strip caulk you get in a box. They do not make the sealer that they use to put inside the aluminum where the rain gutter is. It was gray and did not harden. Going to either use the gray strip caulk from the home improvement store or the 3-M.
My car has a vinyl roof so important to seal that up.
I do not wash my car with running water or car wash ever. No reason to just bucket of clean water and micro fiber towels.
All of my aluminum trim is off and I have all but a couple pieces polished back up and clear coated. If you have cororosion like I had I went all the way to 220 grit wet paper and sanded most of the pits out. Then 500 and then 1,000 grit. I then buff with pedestal buffer with two grades of compound and then buff with cream polish. The aluminum trim will never shin like stainless but it looks much better now.
I use a sewn hard buffing wheel to rough polish and the one on the other end is fluffy for the more shine.
Forgot to mention. My car has power windows so the rear windows roll down. The windows have to be out of the way to remove the rail.
Some pics.
[Image: DSC-0942.jpg]
WHEN BUFFING NEVER GO NEAR AND EDGE OR END LIKE THIS WILL GRAB.
[Image: DSC-0943.jpg]
BUFF IN DIRECTION SO THE WHEEL IF PUSHING OFF THE END OF THE PART.
[Image: DSC-0944.jpg]
NEVER BUFF TO AN EDGE LIKE THIS WILL ALSO GRAB.
[Image: DSC-0945.jpg]
BEST TO GO LENGTH WISE WHEN YOU CAN.
[Image: DSC-0938.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0950.jpg]
YOU CAN SEE THE PITS IN THE ROOF RAIL HERE AND THE NOW POLISHED TRIM ON THE VINYL ROOF.
[Image: DSC-0966.jpg]
I HAVE NEVER FOUND ANY MAGICAL POLISH THEY ALL WORK ABOUT THE SAME.
[Image: DSC-0967.jpg]

[Image: DSC-0968.jpg]
SOME OF THE POLISHED TRIM.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#4
Wow. That looks great.
What are you using for a clear coat ?
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#5
I just used clear gloss rattle can and then put the parts over an electric heater to cure it better. Eastwood makes a rattle can that is two part paint. You break seal on bottom of can and it works just like a custom mix two part. I just used Rustoleum brand.
It is not the best for sure but not building a show car.
Depending on how pitted the trim is takes lots of sanding before you buff. If you have a glass bead cabinet they tell me if you glass bead with low pressure it evens out the surface more and will look even better. My cabinet is too small and did not want to have to make a cardboard extension. Running out of time, lol.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
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