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Door Sound/Heat Deadening
#11
(10-11-2018, 08:47 AM)Bill73Ragtop Wrote: When I installed the Dynomat Extreme in both my 73 & 69 doors, I did it with the window assembly removed from the doors.  Dropped the sheet down from the top through window opening

Only pull back a bit of the bottom backing layer and fold it back from the bottom before inserting.  With the bottom lined up where it needed to go - about an inch from the bottom (don't block the drainage openings) peel back the backing and press it into place.  Used all kinds of extensions to reach into the door.  

The reason I went with DynoMat is because it seems to stick no matter what.  Friend of mine used Eastwood Thermo -coustic sound deadener material on roof of his coupe and it fell off into the liner a couple years later.  Eastwood might be fine for floors, but not sure I would want to trust it or other off-brands for vertical / underside applications.  It goes without saying that proper cleaning of the surface is essential no matter where you intend to install it.    The failure of the Eastwood could very well be from not properly cleaning the surface, but having not been present to see the installation, can't assign a reason for the failure either way.

+1 on all you said!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#12
As mentioned in Bills post, I also used Dynamat and fed strips of it thru the access holes in the door. Window and regulator were still in place at the time.

Surprisingly there is enough room to get your hands in there to clean, feed in the strips and stick them down. A J roller was even used to press the strips down for adhesion.
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#13
Dont forget to install your water shields on the doors;
You can make them or buy them ready made https://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Panel-Wate...2818283261

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#14
mudbilly,

What is the window crank mechanism do you have here?

[Image: door.jpg]

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne
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#15
(02-18-2019, 03:31 PM)mustang7173 Wrote: mudbilly,

What is the window crank mechanism do you have here?

[Image: door.jpg]

It's a kit made by Spal.......It looks kind of wimpy with plastic sprokets, but I've had it for a long time without any issues, I remember that I did have to put a bigger screw in right where you are pointing. It stops the internal and external splines from turning/stripping. I'm not even sure if I have the Delux model, I bought it so long ago.

Reviews are hit or miss on Amazon. I had some jerking going up and down, but after living with that for years, while redoing the window alignment, while doing the sound deadening, I found out that it was only a matter of greasing up the window regulator gears and slides and they all work smoothly now.

Kinda spendy, especially for all 4 windows, but I didn't know how to do stock or even if they were available 20 years ago.

I put the lighted switches in the center console, I know many would frown on that..................

That being said, I don't run the fronts up with the roof up and the doors closed, because the roof seal is pretty stiff and they won't shut all the way before the automatic switch turns them off thinking that they have bottomed out. Also, they are strong enough to try and cock the window once they hit the seal. I open the door, run them up, and close the door.

I bought some rubber softener to try out once the weather warms up.


https://www.amazon.com/Spal-33000030-Del...B0031Y3VDU

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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