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Door Sound/Heat Deadening
#1
I have done a fair bit of searching but am still looking for a photo of a "Dynomat" or equivalent installation on the doors of one of our cars. Well appreciated.
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#2
I would just duplicate the factory and do below the center beam of the door.  It's tough to get it in there and stuck, so i may spray deadener on mine again

Sorry I don't have any pics.

kcmash
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#3
[Image: SHProofing_4.jpg]


[Image: SHProofing_9.jpg]

These aren't doors but the principle is the same.  Small strips for the door and roller gets the job done.

Thanks

Tim
Tucson, Az
1973 SportsRoof
351C bored .040
Crank .020  and Stock cam
Flattop pistons
Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE
Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

[Image: NewPrimedHood_zpsw2jaj0cu.jpg]
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#4
I used roofing tape from Lowes. Worked perfectly, Impossible tell if actual dynamat would have did a better job, unless I rip all of it out and redo with the mat Shootself  . Some people say, or afraid, that there will be odor from the tar, but I never had any, and it roasts here in the summer.

[Image: DSCN0003.jpg]



[Image: DSCN0002.jpg]

[Image: ?url=i21.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb299...030006.jpg]

on the doors, I put the tape on the inside as shown, and also on the actual door sheet metal, cutting the material into strips and feeding it through the holes, so it is dampening the outer skin also . If you look close, you can see that it is cut into lots of little pieces before applying.

You would be amazed as to how solid the doors sound now when closing

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#5
I guess I wasn't clear. Given the small access holes to the exterior body door panels through the interior door panel can one readily use the "tapes" through the access holes to the outer skin to make it worthwhile? Not sure I am clear here...
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#6
(10-09-2018, 07:39 PM)EdM Wrote: I guess I wasn't clear. Given the small access holes to the exterior body door panels through the interior door panel can one readily use the "tapes" through the access holes to the outer skin to make it worthwhile? Not sure I am clear here...

That is exactly what I did. I wish I had taken pictures of that step, but if I remember correctly, I cut it into pieces about 3" x 6". There are enough holes large enough to get your hand thru and stretch twist to get everywhere inside of the outside panel. I know it took at least a couple hours to do the each door. I most times was able to butt up the strips to each other, but overlapped it where it was easier.

I remember that there is a metal piece that runs front to back on the panel, but spaced away from the outer skin. I cut the tape so that it was a little wider than that, and was able to slip it behind that bracket from the top, and maneuver it, in place to get it to stick. I then used a wooden ruler to slip between the bracket and the door to rub it so that it was stuck on the whole surface.

The stuff I used is a lot more flexible/softer than the dynamat. I had tried using that on the door panels (where the knobs and speakers mount) previously, but it was so stiff and the glue didn't seem to be that good that I gave up. it wouldn't actually form to the contours so it didn't stick well.

[Image: 095959062513.jpg]


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Insta...ng/1018733

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#7
When I installed the Dynomat Extreme in both my 73 & 69 doors, I did it with the window assembly removed from the doors.  Dropped the sheet down from the top through window opening

Only pull back a bit of the bottom backing layer and fold it back from the bottom before inserting.  With the bottom lined up where it needed to go - about an inch from the bottom (don't block the drainage openings) peel back the backing and press it into place.  Used all kinds of extensions to reach into the door.  

The reason I went with DynoMat is because it seems to stick no matter what.  Friend of mine used Eastwood Thermo -coustic sound deadener material on roof of his coupe and it fell off into the liner a couple years later.  Eastwood might be fine for floors, but not sure I would want to trust it or other off-brands for vertical / underside applications.  It goes without saying that proper cleaning of the surface is essential no matter where you intend to install it.    The failure of the Eastwood could very well be from not properly cleaning the surface, but having not been present to see the installation, can't assign a reason for the failure either way.
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#8
Thank you gentlemen.
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#9
I used that bubble wrap insulation for air ducts.
Orchard Supply has it in big spools, cut off what
you need and cheap. They sell it by the foot.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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