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Door latch Plate
#1
Ok so my door striker finally took a poop and now my door doesnt close. So i took off the rear interior panel to see whats going on. and i found this.

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So i bought a new striker bolt thing from OMS, but i need a new plate, both threads are completely gone, but the only cheapest one i found was $12 and i dont want to spend another dam $20 on a USED plate. Is there other ways to go about this? and something that won't allow the striker to move. any ideas?

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#2
Difficult, but effective: Weld, drill, and tap.

Less difficult, should be effective enough: Tap for helicoil, install helicoil. I don't like the idea of my door being held in place with a bolt held on by a helicoil though.

Even better: Junkyard. My '78 Lincoln Mark V uses the same retaining plate. The T-Birds should be the same. I'd bet that a lot of early '80s Fords are the same too.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#3
Get a nut with the same thread. Cut the plate, weld it in. You are back in business in short order.
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#4
Weld a nut on it [ although I think the threads are slighty out of round to lock it down ] or get another one
It is a pretty important part - it needs to move to aline the door.

I should have one 16.00 shipped
Don
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#5
judge;186378 Wrote:Get a nut with the same thread. Cut the plate, weld it in. You are back in business in short order.
Or just grind down the ridge along the back and weld the nut to the back side. Smile

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
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#6
ya i guess im gonna have to do that haha, cant find it new :/

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
  Reply
#7
oh dam;187622 Wrote:ya i guess im gonna have to do that haha, cant find it new :/

You won't find a new one, but Don at Ohio Mustang Supply said he had one for $16, and he won't send you something that's not in good shape. In my opinion, that would be the way to go. Welding the nut on the back is a fix if no other options exist.

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
  Reply
#8
73MustangCoupe;187653 Wrote:
oh dam;187622 Wrote:ya i guess im gonna have to do that haha, cant find it new :/

You won't find a new one, but Don at Ohio Mustang Supply said he had one for $16, and he won't send you something that's not in good shape. In my opinion, that would be the way to go. Welding the nut on the back is a fix if no other options exist.

+1 for 16 bucks you can't go wrong, and no hassle trying to monkey rig something to work
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