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Door hinges and Pin kit
#21
Can someone please give me an approximate weight for the door? I am trying to figure out if I can do it myself. I don't want to try and all the sudden drop the thing on the floor.
Thank you.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#22
I'm thinking it's probably more in the range of 60-80 lbs... not quite 100.  I know I can pick one up that's fully loaded (with the glass, regulator, tracks, door latch and lock hardware, etc.), carry it around and set it back down without feeling like I'd be killing myself doing so.

Are you replacing both hinge pins on each door?  Or the entire hinge?

Do you have enough space to open the door wide?

Try this for replacing the pins and bushings: open the door wide, prop something under the door to keep it steady, tap out one of the pins, remove the bushings on that hinge, replace the bushings and replace the pin.  Do the other hinge - same technique.  Do the other side, same technique (one hinge at a time with the door supported).

That should save you from having to pick-up and or drop any doors, and shouldn't mess with the alignment of the doors, either.

If you're replacing both hinge assemblies on each door, you might consider removing the fender, or maybe the inner splash guard and reaching through to replace each hinge, one at a time, with the door remaining closed.  It's a lot of work, but it works and allows the doors to stay in position without needing much if any realignment.  I'd actually done this after I'd removed the fenders to replace the pins and bushings, then decided to go with the Mustang Steve kit, so I pulled the doors off altogether and went from there.

Hope that helps!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#23
I would estimate the door being about 80 lbs with glass installed. Heavy and kind of awkward but one person can handle it during removal as long as it is supported while removing hinges and you have something set up near by to place the door on as well as a good open area to move around so as not to have to maneuver around other stuff. It is much easier with a second person even if it is to just balance the door on what ever you are using to support it.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#24
I would say they are about 80 pounds with glass as well. I have changed out the pins on mine. When I did, I removed the fender, left the door closed, removed one hinge at a time, changed the pin out, installed and then did the other hinge. Then I would open the door and close it a couple times to check for proper alignment. If needed, I put a jack and a piece of wood in between the jack and the door, loosened up the hinge bolts slightly, and did my adjustments. Takes me about 30 minutes or so to get good alignment so that I do not have to lift up or slam the door to get it closed. My doors actually close really easy and alignment looks spot on. Good luck.

Tom
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#25
Thank you. Thats a good weight to handle.
I already have the fender of. The reason i need to remove the door is because i need to drill the hole for the wire bellows. I cant get to the location with the doors on. Then i will install the door and replace one hinge shaft at a time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#26
Floor jack and a piece of wood wrapped in a towel to support the door and an extra set of hands is nice to help balance. But it can be done by yourself. Pretty easy.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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#27
tony-muscle Wrote:Thank you. Thats a good weight to handle.
I already have the fender of. The reason i need to remove the door is because i need to drill the hole for the wire bellows. I cant get to the location with the doors on. Then i will install the door and replace one hinge shaft at a time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Tony,
I was able to drill my holes with doors on. Used a cheap right angle attachment from menards and a step bit.

See post # 26 and #27
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-door-speaker-replacement?page=3&highlight=door+speakers

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#28
The drill angle adapter does not fit with the hole saw. If you had step drills it may work if you can drill holes at ever bigger at angle until you could insert part of the step drill. If you are using universal bellows they probably are of smaller diameter. The ones i am using are 1 5/8" which i dont have a step drill for.

In any case, last night i removed the door. Not that hard except that the door when loosen and grabbed at the top it kicked away from me and away from the jack. The door then fell in a semi-controlled manner. Luckily i had plan for possible problems and had pads and carpet all around. Not major damage happened.

The stupidity i commited was that after i sawed the inner hole with the 1 5/8 i was so excited that didnt change the saw for the door hole...... dahhhh!!! The door hole is supposed to be 2". So what can i do at that time?? I ended up tack welding the cut out to the door hole so i can use the drilled center hole as a guide for the 2" saw. Otherwise i couldn't keep the saw blade in place. After welding the cut was easy. Now they are done and the door is back on. No one will know that i had to weld that piece because the 2" hole removed the welded section.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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