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Door hinges and Pin kit
#1
Busy on prepping the car for paint (Its -6 c (21.2 F) over here, so no rush)
I was busy inspecting the door hinges, and saw the driver side was good for a pin change on both hinges.
So ordered a set.

I've changed a few times pins on my T-birds and different cars, where the side hinges to body are bolted on some plate/studs that is kept in place
or on t-birds, welded.
I do know from a mistake I did back in the 80's, while attempting to rust/protect behind the hinges that our mustangs have a plate behind
that is kept in place by the 3 bolts and obeys to the law of gravity if you remove the 3... 

As the Scott drake pin kit was not avail, I've ordered the basic kit 65/73. Not really a prob or lesser quality, just that this kit means cut to fit.
Which you do better with the hinges no longer on the car.

So the question is: What would be the best way to remove these hinges without worry about these plates (so they don't fall)
and by extend, prevent me to practice unwanted gym under the dashboard?

Is there a trick to keep them in place? or is glue/kit/screw them from the inside before unscrew the only option?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#2
The plates should not fall out if I remember correctly.

There should be little tabs that lock the plate in place.  Sometimes they have been broken off over time.  I have never had them fall out myself.

You could always remove the kick panel and put some kind of stop in with a magnet, or some VHB tape.  

BTW.  If you want some spare hinges to rebuild, paint, and swap one by one to maintain door alignment I have a few spare sets I can part with.

kcmash
  Reply
#3
(03-17-2018, 03:36 PM)Fabrice Wrote: Busy on prepping the car for paint (Its -6 c (21.2 F) over here, so no rush)
I was busy inspecting the door hinges, and saw the driver side was good for a pin change on both hinges.
So ordered a set.

I've changed a few times pins on my T-birds and different cars, where the side hinges to body are bolted on some plate/studs that is kept in place
or on t-birds, welded.
I do know from a mistake I did back in the 80's, while attempting to rust/protect behind the hinges that our mustangs have a plate behind
that is kept in place by the 3 bolts and obeys to the law of gravity if you remove the 3... 

As the Scott drake pin kit was not avail, I've ordered the basic kit 65/73. Not really a prob or lesser quality, just that this kit means cut to fit.
Which you do better with the hinges no longer on the car.

So the question is: What would be the best way to remove these hinges without worry about these plates (so they don't fall)
and by extend, prevent me to practice unwanted gym under the dashboard?

Is there a trick to keep them in place? or is glue/kit/screw them from the inside before unscrew the only option?

The plates are held in place by bent tabs.  They drop in the top, and should stay in place.  That being said anything is possible and not knowing the condition of them or the fasteners it isn't 100% guaranteed that they will stay in place, but I give you a strong 95%.
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#4
I've mentioned gravity because that's exactly what at least the upper one did back then: felt in some place between body metal and had hard time to get it out.
If there were some kind of tab, guide or anything to hold them, as I've removed everything to be able to get it back, I've probably put it back as expected.
But its been a while and I have no clue.

So I guess as you guys say it should not fall and me not remembering anything except it felt in the first place. I'm gonna have to check it out and secure it with whatever tape/magnets/kit... required.

So thx for the replies!

@kcmash thx for the offer! Already marked them, as the previous paint job may have been done with the hinges with a little play, I expect I'll have to redo the alignment anyway. Plus, now that all bolts were removed one by one, cleaned, greased and set back, I do not expect much work to replace the pins. So magnets or strong tape will do.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#5
was looking at this vid on a cougar, same job, same hinges and pin kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky8hWXTGSKw

and at 10:42, for the upper hinge, the guy talks about adding a stud to prevent the plate to fall.
So I think that exactly what I did wrong and what I will not repeat Wink

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#6
Fabrice,

Scrap the standard pin kit and install the Mustang Steve's door hinge kit. I installed this kit. KCmash's recommendation on procuring another set of door hinges is a good idea.


https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/do-...kit-71-73/

[Image: 71_Hinge_Kit_3_300x300.jpg]

Picture Source: Mustang Steve CR: 2018

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow
[+] 1 user Likes mustang7173's post
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#7
LOL, grease fittings. How many times are you going to open and close it?
That is overkill and for sure not needed. So you grease if once and never again I guess.
Just a little info on bushings. I was the engineering manager at the largest lawn mower plant in the world. When I worked there we made 5,000 riding mowers a day, 20,000 walk behind mowers a day and 1,000 garden tillers a day.
In our testing the front axles on the riding mowers lasted longer with just plastic bushing than with grease fittings. Without proper seals to keep the grit out the grease mixes with the dust and makes it a lapping compound so it wears faster. But people perceived the sight of a grease fitting as being quality. They put some fittings in holes that did not even grease anything they were there just for people to see and feel good about. Same with welding. Some welds were added so people could see them and actually did nothing but make them feel good. Many things in mfg. are perceived as being better when they actually are not.
That being said a great door hinge needs thrust ball bearings and needle bearings and an oil pump to last a 1,000 years, lol.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#8
@mustang7173, I saw this kit. As I've used the simple one a few times and never noticed wear/play years after install. I went for it again.
I wanted the other simple kit, because of the pin length. I think simplicity wins here.

May the kit fail at some point, that would actually be a good news: that would mean I do use my mustang again vs it being a garage queen! Smile

@David
[a great door hinge needs thrust ball bearings and needle bearings and an oil pump to last a 1,000 years]
Only if you use the right oil, change the hinges filters every 5000 openings and don't forget to let your car be at operating temp before opening the door.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
  Reply
#9
LOL, good one David.

I used the standard bushings and pin kits that are on the HELP! rack at the parts stores. IIRC, I had to do a little customization to make them work, but they are still fine fifteen years later.


  Reply
#10
My take is this.(yep I am a an engineer too)

The hinge pins for our cars are cheap and fairly easy to replace.  Our doors are VERY big and heavy.  If something is going to wear out whether it’s after 10,00 or 100,000 cycles I would rather it Ben the pin and bushing versus the hinge itsself.

If I were to design an “improved” hinge pin it would likely be drop in pin with a through hole for a retainer pin.  Then when bushings wear I simply open the door,  support the latch end, remove the pin and bushings, replace with a drop in pin and lock pin and i am done.  No hinge removal, no grinding, staking or repaint.

Kcmash
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