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Does your factory radiator cut it?
I have a 302 mildly built and FMX with the original radiator and it seems to be running hot. On a sunny warm day in the 80's the temperature gets to be around 200, and if theres traffic it gets to like 215 220. this is Fahrenheit.

and another question does running a thermostat make it run hot or cold? I currently have no thermostat. thinking of getting 160. Eventually i am going to get a more bigger one but if i can hold off to get other things i will.

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
Running without a thermostat can actually make an engine run hot due to the coolant flowing too fast to be able to soak heat from the engine.
A thermostat warms the engine to operating temperature and then maintains the temperature. I would use a 180 or 192 thermostat for engine efficiency.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
I have a universal fit radiator from Jegs, my stock radiator rotted and started leaking. I'd recommend an aluminum radiator since you are modifying the car anyway. As for the thermostat, most cars run better with a thermostat installed, it brings the engine up to operating temperature quicker and will maintain the temperatures better. Cooling systems are designed to have the restriction of a thermostat. If the thermostat is removed the coolant flows too fast and does not cool properly in the radiator. I would recommend no lower than a 180 degree thermostat, 160* does not allow the engine build enough temperature.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
hmm interesting..i eventually want to get some coolers for fluids. Is there any brand of thermostat you would recommend?

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
"Robert Shaw" is widely considered to be the best thermostat brand there is. I use them and have never had a failure. Stant and MotoRad are also good quality.
Efficient engine cooling bedevils many, even experienced mechanics. Remember, your guage does not tell you the temperature of your engine...it tells you the temperature of your coolant. Within reason, higher-temp thermostats actually allow your engine to run cooler simply because the hotter coolant will move more heat to the radiator to be dispersed into the atmosphere.
Having no thermostat serves to increase the engine's heat due to the fact that the coolant is never allowed to absorb as much heat as a thermostatically- regulated engine.
Many so-called "experts" over the years believe that removing the thermostat lets your engine run cooler, but that is simply not accurate.
Otherwise, auto engines would be designed without thermostats.
Another point to consider is high flow radiator. 4 core is not always best. I had a 68 that ran hot with a 4 core and I tried electric fans, restrictors, shrouds, and everything I could think of. While at a car show I was in between another 68 mustang and a cougar and both of those guys were talking about my radiator and proceeded to educate me on 2 core high flow aluminum radiators. I ordered one from CA. (can't remember the name but can look it up) and I never had an over heat problem again. The tubes in the 2 core were fricking huge and it made since once it was properly explained to me that stacking all those cores actually blocked the cooling ability.
Might be your water pump. I recommend a cheap high flow water pump and a 2 row aluminum radiator. it will make the world of difference. I'd also recommend a standard 180 degree thermostat from Chinazone.
I swapped to alum radiators on all 3 of my cars, no issues. Check ebay. The one for my 69 Torino was about $160 with free shipping. Looks great, fits perfect, no issues. For $215 you can get a thermo, water pump and radiator.

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.
-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.
-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter
If you guys can get me a link to some radiators that are good that would be awesome!. Water pump works popped the cap and the water moves so thats checked. Next step is going to get a fan shroud and a thermostat. Hopefully that does the trick, as well as a oil cooling system. Are these radiators able to be connected with the trans also?

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
Those things were designed by Ford to cut it. Unfortunately, due to tinkering with the system by (previous) owners or simply the degrading effects of age, they can become insufficient.
Most cases of overheating are caused by clogged radiators or faulty or missing thermostats.
Take the radiator to a shop and have it flushed and cleaned and you'll be surprised how much difference it will make.
Check your hoses. A hose that collapses under depression can cause the flow to almost stop completely.
I use a refurbished original radiator with no issues whatsoever.
And I almost forgot: make sure you have a fan shroud that leads your airflow. Otherwise the fan will simply pull air from behind the radiator instead of the air in front of it through it.

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]


"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:

I have a 408 Cleveland stroker in my car with 550+ Hp. I am still running my stock radiator, new hoses, stock water pump, stock fan, stock thermostat and stock shroud in place. I have yet to have an issue with temp in my car. I think the factory setup is good as long as all the components are installed correctly and are in good working order.


1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]

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